Phacade

Yeah I ordered one from Motorsports once, for my 240Z (which has been sold to anothr 240Z.org member). It worked fine, although it did not have a lot lot of motion to it. I had Z therapy carbs (1970 model) attached but was advised my Motorsports to go ahead and get '73 choke cable to match the car. The cables worked fine but did not have a great range of motion.

Just a thought, but I have heard that a gas tank from a 280ZX will fit if you modify the straps or other holding gear to accomidate it. I have a gast tank of an '81 280ZX left over from my conversion of an L28 into my 240Z. Never bothered with the tank but it is in great shape. Lemme know if interested.

As long as the setup you have now works, who cares, right? The alternative is going with a 4 barrell setup or EFI. Just a thought.

Interesting. The kludge hole, as you put it in photo #1, looks like it was installed by someone with a drill and not much else to do. I noticed in photo#2 that someone vut holes in your aircleaner. Fast forward to pic#4, the top questionmark hole is for wiring, mine has the same hole and sealant, the bottom questionmark hole is for the choke. It looks like someone put another hose here and tried to seal it. The chokes coming out of this hol makes alot more sense than fromthe drivers side. If it comes from the drives side it would be too long and might dangle on the manifold (or headers if you had them) and get burnt. Also they would be in the way of the aircleaner, it would be more difficult to remove the aircleaner and tune the carbs. Now coming from the passenger side would keep the choke cables out of the way of all of this. Also the two clips (each of which are secured in a 'V' fashion about two inches about the valve cover) hold the choke cable in perfect symetry to the carbs themselves. My cables look good.

I did not even see this response. I thought I caught all the posts on this site, sorry about that. Actually I do not have a billpoint account, but if you give me a day or two I will find out exactly what shipping would run. What Zip code are you in? Feel free to email me, I tend to get those almost instantly. timberwolf@geotec.net

You bought rims from the guy selling a 280Z like mine in Stillwater? Did you, by any chance, buy some 14' gold rims for $100? Nope. Not me.

My 240Z shop manual says the choke cables are to come out the passenger side. There is no hole at all on the drivers side, but the hole on the passenger side was the EXACT size as the grommit on the choke cables. Some of the earlier 240Z's may have indeed had it on the drivers side but not the '73. There was (and is) a factory clip mounted on the valve cover to hold both the cables as they head for the carbs. If one was to mount them on the drivers side, despite the fact I would need to drill a hole there because there is not one there; I would be left with too much extra choke cable. Mounting the cables on the carbs is really quite similair to mounting brakes on a 10-speed bicycle (oddly enough). I believe two people are needed to adjust them properly, one to actuate it from the cockpit and one to see the motion of the choke pulls it all the way down into the 'choked' position. I have also heard, FYI, from MSA and a few guys in the local Oklahoma Z car club as well as from the Nissan dealership; not to use WD-40 on the cables themselves. Over time WB-40 leaves a residue that can harden and may actually leave the cables stiffer than before. Don't rush this project, I have heard of a few guys rushing this and in the process bent the cable and were unable to unbend it enough to use it.

A couple of thoughts. You have the headers already. Are they square or round port exhaust? This will pretty much determine the head that will mount to them. If for example you went with a P79 head, you would probably need a new set of headers since both heads you mentioned are square port exhaust heads. There is really no bad choice, just a few better choices. Personally I liked my P79 head, much better than my N42 head I have now. After the head work and mated to my F54 block, Z therapy SU carbs and MSA 6-1 headers, I have an unbeatable combination. A couple of things you have to ask yourself. What do you intend to use your Z for. Racing? Autocross? Daily driver -w- attitude? While most of us would like to build out engines to race, few of use actually will. N42 heads tend to make good racers but poor drivers. Again this is my opinion form personally experience, please feel free to flame me if you like. Another idea on the Datsun garage web site was to use a P90 head. It has the square exhaust ports the will match your headers but is very free flowing. Should make a nice compromise between racing and everyday driving. Again, just a thought.

I have not checked in awhile but Z barn used to have good emblems at alot less than MSA or Victoria British prices.

My '73 has retractable lap belts, however the shoulder belt it one length, bolted at the top. No give and I imagine would hurt if ever used in a panic stop. The do click in on the lap belt but can come out rather easily. Most states have a lap belt only law so I just wore the lap belt. I have heard it is possible to retro-fit a complete system out of a '75-78 280Z, both the lap and shoulder belt assembly. The belt looks similiar but cannot unsnap. The should also has its own seperate retraction mechanism, so it takes a little getting use to. You will get the belt out where you want it but the shoulder is too short when you click it. Everytime I click my belt in my '75 I think of that cheesy movie 'Beverly Hills Ninja' where Chris Farley puts on a seatbelt and it starts to strangle him. He screams and pulls out a knife and cuts it. Funny stuff. But the comparison is similair.

I have noticed the same thing with my 240Z. I am even running a '81 L28 and it does the same thing. When I asked around (at length) I found that this was a 240Z thingie. According to some old Z nuts I talked to in Illinois, the 240Z alternator is acutally not a alternator at all but rather a generator. Why the difference is slim, the faster it turns the more power it cranks out. I changed out my voltage regulator and same thing happens. [puzzled look] I suppose that it really is not a big deal since it is usually over 1000 RPM when driving anyway.

I realize it is an expensive option, but I highly recommend Z therapy round top SU carbs. There is just no subsitute. I paid about $900 for everything but it was well worth it. I have never had another problem with them. Scott at Z therapy walked me through just about everything with them, mounted them on a polished intake manifold and included alot of hardware to get it installed. If you have the flat tops, you really have no idea what you are missing!

If you did not replace the pump do so now. Worst case scenario: You have a new pump. When I rebuilt my L28, I used the red sealant and used it sparingly. I have has 100% no leaks and a cool engine. You might want to consider having the front cover bead clasted for an extra clean cover, it pretty much guarantees no leaks. Don't buy the pump from Pep Boys, a friend of mine did and it was no good. I spent the extra buck and got it from MSA.

When I got rid of the makeshift choke from my '73 (which I think might have been a lawnmower cable??), I read the Haynes. I talked to Sam at MSA, and spent a long time forming a strategy. Now this could be completely different on other year cars, however it seems correct given the hardware and all. My choke cable(s) were factory, 1 lever going to two actuators. I install them in the center consol, then souted them underneath the consol, arounf the under the dash through the passenger side, up through an existing hole and out. The factory choke has a rubber grommit that was about 3 inches long and has a notch to mount it in this hole. Fits like a glove. No leaks, OEM look. Now from under the hood (looking from front of car) the hole was on the left, still passenger side, about 5 inches below the hood latch. There was a bracket on the valve cover the looked like a "V" the held each of the cables seperatly. From here the went over and stright to my SU's. It took two people to adjust them properly; one in the car and one under the hood. Hope this helps.

Heat shield went in fine, actually I modified a '73 head shield and attached the springs directly to it. I took the twice pipes to a locl muffler shop to install, a little cutting was necessary where the twin chrome pipes poke out, but it was worth it. As far as the noise, it was noisy as hell at first but then got quieter. Now it is just a dull roar unless I really get on it.

I just posted a site with more information on this car for sale: www.geocities.com/datsun240_1973/index.html

Actually I am still at work, won't get my email until tonight. I will email you once I get home. But until then: Yes it has been painted, It was originally Brown (Yuk) but was painted Candy apple red. After about a year I noticed A few bubbles on the fender and the roof. I promptly got out the angle grinder and took car of this, primered and put some Red Rustoleum on the spot. Strangly enough, it matched the paint almost perfect. I had planned to strip it down completely and pain tthe whole car again (even though I had literally 3 or four spots). Of course I never did get to strip it down and repaint, hence the reason I am selling it for what I am and not $7-8K.

SU's are round top. I paid about $750 for them, came with all the original linkage, '70 model crossover valve, hoses, and polished intake manifold, complete with insulators. I have the original choke mated to it as well. Not noted is the car has 15" wheels, gold honeycomb design. Similair to the "78 Trans-am wheels. Tires are vc condition, rear P245/50/15, front P225/50/15.

1973 Datsun 240Z, rebuilt '81 280ZX L28, Z therapy SU carbs. Forged pistons, 3-angle valve job on P79 head. F54 block. 4 core radiator, ZX electronic ignition. Motorsports 6-1 headers with dual exhaust free flow exhaust to dual glass packs. 5-speed transmission from '81 280ZX, '78 shifter handle for clearance and shifter throw. Near flawless interior. Tan leather seats, practically time traveled from 1973. Dash has a few cracks, its only real flaw. Custom mats, Exterior good but not what I would consider great. Great belongs in a magazine, good gets you alot of ohs and ahs around town. Very little rust. Floorpans look good. Custom wheels. Asking $5000, considering all the $$ I have in it. Runs great, Really a pleasure to drive.

Actually I plan on selling my 240Z soon. I have 2 Z's and unfortunatly cannot keep both. I have about $10K invested in it but I realize I will probably not get this much. Lets see, the car: 1973 Datsun 240Z, rebuilt '81 280ZX L28, Z therapy SU carbs. Forged pistons, 3-angle valve job on P79 head. F54 block. 4 core radiator, ZX electronic ignition. Motorsports 6-1 headers with dual exhaust free flow exhaust to dual glass packs. 5-speed transmission from '81 280ZX, '78 shifter handle for clearance and shifter throw. Near flawless interior. Tan leather seats, practically time traveled from 1973. Dash has a few cracks, its only real flaw. Custom mats, Exterior good but not what I would consider great. Great belongs in a magazine, good gets you alot of ohs and ahs around town. Very little rust. Floorpans look good. Custom wheels. Asking $5000, considering all the $$ I have in it. Runs great, Really a pleasure to drive.

I can fill part of your list. Driver's seat mechanism cover, off 280Z but am told it will work. Inside door handles & escutcheons. Good shape. Door lock pull-knob trim rings, any will work, got to Pep Boys. Hand brake handle. Good shape, off 280Z but same stuff. Window crank handles, got a bunch of these. I would take $50 plus shipping for all. Lemme know.

I have heard alot of the 280Z parts will work here. I probably have some. Lemme know specifically what you need.

My '75 280Z has a gas tank that has been hit on something, almost looks like you rolled up under it feet facing the engine and punched straight up. As a result the float goes to the 1/8 tank spot and stops. Not too bad except I am ertain that I am missing a gallon capacity, and I can easily run out of gas once it gets to 1/8 tank. Any suggestions? Can I remove the tank and repair or would I be best to shop for another?

I have some tires that came on a car I ust bought that I really do not car for. Don't ge me wrong, they are nice. They are a honeycomb/spider web design. Gold rims with silver polish. They look similair to the stock rims on a '78 Trans-am. Kinda. Sorry no photo right now. Back tires BF Goodrich P245/50/15, front P235/50/15. $400 for all. Plus shipping.

The headers are by Hooker, 6 into two design. They were originally installed on a friends 280Z ('75 I think) with a N47 head. They are used, but less than 100 miles I know for certain. They are almost, but not quite, to that stage where one could claim they were new. I like these more than the Motorsport headers I have, seeing as where they bolt on is actually bolt holes and not slots like the Motorsports version. They seem more rugged as well. I would bolt 'em on myself, but when I think of all the work involved, I would rather just sell them.