mperdue

Looks great! I'm hoping to be ther by summer too. What color are you going with?

I hate having hot air blowing in my face anyway so this won't bother me at all when I get my car running. My feet are always freezing! Also the Datsun Dude has mint condition factory service manuals for about $75. You can reach him at z@datsundude.com. You may not want to take it in the garage but it's all there. He's got a long list of NEW original parts. MIchael

Hey cardog. Beautiful '71! What are your plans for the car? WIll you drive it at all or keep it in a garage? Looks like an investment to me. Welcome to the club - I hope you can get past the "complicated" interface here and stick around. If you stop by enough it'll grow on you. Michael

It's not hard to remove the riser vinyl. Just take a look and see how it's held up. Mine had absolutely no rust and yours may be the same. As far as the transmission tunnel depending on how far up the rust went on the floors you may or may not need to mess with it. I had a little rust on my floors and my tranny tunnel was completely rust free. I'lll probably POR it anyway jsut becuase I've already started stripping and sandblasting it. It's a bit of a pain to inspect it becuase ther's a thick matting covering the tunnel under the vinyl - it's hard to remove without destroying it. In the rear hatch check the rear hatch deck panel and the spare tire well. It may need some work. The area under the tar (on the hatch area floor) may rust because there are lots of "wrinkles" in the metal that flood with water under the matting. Mine has some surface rust but not too bad. But again I'll probably POR it anyway and apply new soundproofing. Sounds like you're about where I am right now except mine is a little more stripped down. GOod luck! Remember POR15 requires a temperature of 75F so depending on where you are you may not be able to paint it for a few months. Michael

Hey 2Many, Don't like the color? I didn't care for it too much either but now that I've been looking at my 918 Orange 240Z coffee cup every day for 2 months it's starting to grow on me... Beautiful car - I'd love to see a '70 in that condition! Michael

Mockingbird/75 area. Michael

Are you prepared to do any body work? I"ve got one with a dent and I'm in Dallas. Let me know if you're interested and I can take a better look at it this weekend. Michael

Here's what it can look like underneath. The rust around the holes is what you can see with the stuff still on but it does get up under there too. The stuff at the front left and right was covered. These are actually pretty good floors - if you have much rust it can be a lot worse. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1996&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 I'd recommend taking it all off and applying POR-15 to the whole thing, just to be safe. Have fun! Michael

What year? the '73's are different.

looks like a white batmobile - only crappier

From what I saw you're not missing too much from z.com. Only thing of value I saw was the road and track finder. The rest is a not much more than a 350Z ad.

Who doens't know Mad MIke? Well, at least anyone who's been to a ZCOT meeting would know him - he's pretty hard to miss. Don't really know him personally but since I plan on joining the club soon I'll probably get to know all of these guys better.

I'll send you a PM. I didn't realize you were in the Dallas area. There are lots of helpful guys in the Z club or Texas.

Hi Rolf, I tried aluminum oxide, glass bead and like I said regular old sand. I had about the same results for all of them except the glass bead is much cleaner as far as dust goes. I didn't have any problems warping the metal because I was working at moderate pressure. But I didn't see any real benefit of the bead or aluminum oxide over the sand besides the dust problem. Not sure what you mean by quartz sand - as I understand it, sand is basically glass with lots of impurities, and quartz is crystallized glass. NOt sure if the sand I had is considered quartz sand or not - the package just said "Play Sand". HOpe this helps! Michael

hahah just a screen to filter out the rocks you get in the play sand. I think it was actually an oil splash guard you put on top of a frying pan to keep the oil splashes in. A window screen might work too, or any kind of screen with small holes. The smaller the better so you don't block the sandblaster lines or nozzle.

My first impression was "yuk". I haven't seen a mustang I like since '69 though - well '70 was ok but went downhill from there. This one looks like a smashed ford explorer.

FYI shox.com told me lifetimie warranty on TOkico and Eibachs. He said "most are progressive" but wasn't sure about the pro-kit in particular. Edit: THe Eibach 240Z Pro kit is a progressive rate set. Jsut got them yesterday!!

I started with glass bead. But it went way too fast and at 30$ per 50lb, it's too expensive. I picked up some play sand at home depot (look in the building materials section and not gardening if you want the dry stuff). I bought a strainer from the grocery store with the smallest holes I could find. So far I haven't had any problems with it. You have to rock the blaster every once in awhile if it sticks but nothing bad. The only down side is it's REALLY REALLY dusty compared to glass bead. But at 2.50$ for 50lbs I can deal with it. I just push the car out in the driveway. Here's how it looks after some blasting (pass side floor) http://www.utdallas.edu/~perdue/sandfloor1.jpg Good luck! Michael

See Escanlon's gallery for similar wheels with the inner part painted body color. May give you some idea... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2606&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 Michael

Xylene is great for removing the residue. Someone mentioned acetone - not sure which one is worse or better for your hands or lungs!

From my car audio days, I found the general opinion is that the stuff that's made for sound deadening in cars works the best. These are products like Dynamat and B-Quiet. These tend to be the most light weight with the best sound killing results. Other things will work. I tried the Hi-temp Mastic material from Mcmaster-Carr and it was pretty good, but it's really heavy and doesn't adhere as well as some others might. But it's relatively cheap. I'll probably end up splurging and going with the real thing such as Dynamat, or something close to it anyway. That stuff costs big $$$! michael