hmsports

No end links or bushings, just the bars... 1" Front : $30 3/4" Rear: $25 Thanks, Rick

Another good cleaner for gummy stuff is Denatured Alcohol (also known as Wood Alcohol). It isn't as harsh as others.

One thing to think about is the amount of force exerted on shifters and the strength of a bolt or threaded rod used to extend the shifter. Use at least a grade-8.

You would be best to contact the folks at the two places I mentioned to find out about what to really get. Because of the dimensions, I think you will need struts made specifically for the Z. I think they are interchangeable between the 240/260/280. If you are looking at doing autoX or simply just street driving you would probably be okay with Tokikos -- they are less expensive than Konis but don't last as long.

I've seen guys take shifter levers and heat them red-hot and bend them to the shape they need.

Selling my 72 shell -- $300 or best offer (located in St. Louis, MO) I was preparing this to build a new race car but have changed my focus to another car... Rust: - Right front frame - Repairable floorboard rust (does NOT need new floorboards) - Battery tray/inner fender needs repair (not bad) I will repair the rusted floor and frame areas for an additional $300 if you wish. Car has been gutted for the most part: - No dash - No electrical harness - No marker lights All of the glass is in good shape. The body is straight with only a few small dings. One of the fiberglass light buckets has a quarter size hole in it. No engine (well, it has a rusted up block in it). *-*-*-*-> More Photos <-*-*-*-*

You need to get the inserts first. Some of the inserts such as Konis are a real tight fit so you have to be VERY careful of making sure things are straight when you weld the housing back together. For Koni inserts or more detailed information, contact True Choice or Ground Control. Each brand of insert may have a slightly different length.

Craig, I've used my Blue pump for about four years of racing. Each race lasts about 30-40 minutes. I guess there have been more than 25 races total. I have not had it fail or faulter. I do plan on running a second blue pump on this car that will be manually switched in case I do have a failure. This will require a T-fitting and some one way inline valves. I plan on running all my lines within the car -- including brake lines -- since my car will have limited ground clearance and I don't want to take a chance of pinching or tearing a line when I do any 'agriculture racing'. The SCCA states that any fuel, oil or brake lines that pass through the driver's compartment must be at minimum braided. They recommend, and this is what I will use, is solid metal line.

Use a large pipe cutter and remove the desired amount from the housing about one inch down from the threads at the top. Carefully weld the pieces back together so the housing is perfectly straight. Use Tokiko or Koni inserts. I'm sure others will work also. To determine the amount to remove, take the new insert and place into the housing. Place a piece of masking tape on the insert rod at the housing cap. Lift the insert until it hits the housing cap and place another piece of tape on the rod. Measure the distance between the two peices of tape.

Measured, cut and ready to go Final setup before tacking Clamped in and ready to weld Installed. Ready to drill holes and bolt in.

Looks like Mad Max is closer to reality than thought :classic:

My tools are mostly Crafsman because I started collecting when I was in the Air Force and had little money for tools. My Dad gave me a few he has had since the 50's and even when I broke his 18" breaking bar a quick trip to the local Sears store and I had a brand new one for free. I do buy some cheap-o (Chicago Electric) tools like my 1/2" electric impact wrench. I only use it about two or three times a year (at most) so I couldn't justify spending several hundred on a quality brand when this was only $49.

I purchased my cell from ATL about four years ago for around $360. I know you can get Fuel Safe brand from racer parts wholesale. One note on installing the cell for SCCA racing -- the rules state that you must have a metal bulkhead between the cell and the driver's compartment. My cell will hang below the deck where a single sheet of aluminum will completely cover the cell. I will be puting a flapper door so I can get to the filler. Another thing. Since the pick-ups in the cell and hoses are quite large diameter, you will need to get a Holley Blue pump (around $100) to get the fuel out and up to the carbs. The pump comes with a regulator to get things down to about 6 pounds which is what my carbs like. They have modified needles.

Usually the equation: Vehicle + Beer + Torch = Darwin Award Winner! Luckily I did remember to remove the fuel tank first :classic:

Here's a picture of the one I'm installing... It's a rubber bladder inside of a metal case. There are foam blocks inside the bladder. The metal case helps to keep everything safe in case of an accident. If the metal case distorts or fails, the rubber bladder is supposed to keep the fuel inside. If it fails, the foam helps to keep the fuel from splashing about. ATL (Aero Tech Labs) which made my cell makes them for cars, planes and even space craft.

Started by cutting out the spare tire area. Will build the cell box this weekend...

I just purchased 100 feet of DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) tubing at 1.5" diameter and .120 wall thickness for my EP car. I could (if I read the GCR correctly) gotten away with .095 wall at 1.5". Oh well. Anyway, ITS and EP rules state that a 240Z can run 1.5" at .095 wall tubing (because of the weight)

Complete set -- front, rear and drip rail chrome trim that came off my '71. No kinks and with a little bit of polish and some minimal elbow grease they will look like new. $50 for all. Thanks, Rick

'71 tank with plastic vapor tank and inner fender metal cover. When I flushed the tank out there was a fair amount of scale from the paint on the inside rusting off. I'm sure a good cleaning and coating would take care of it. You pay $30 plus shipping from St. Louis (which is usually less than $20) Thanks, Rick

Let me clarify that 2Many... A FOUR wheel drift is desirable... a two wheel drift is not (just a lot of fun). I also love racing in the rain -- but I've never been able to afford rain tires so I have to slide around on my Toyo or Hoosiers. Makes for some interesting times -- espeicially like you said -- with a locker!

Always drifting during road racing. Great on Hoosier tires!

Sounds like you may have dropped a valve. Maybe broken a stem or lost keepers. The valve may be just dangling and being pounded by the piston. Pull the valve cover and take a look.

Isn't that because all of us Americans are so rich we don't change the oil, just buy a new car :classic:

I use four ratchet straps. I always 'X' them at both ends -- right front of car to left front of trailer and so on. You can get them for the best price from Race Wholesale. They also have a pretty good PDF file that explains how to tie down a car at Towing Instructions It is best to attach to the frame of the car. I use the cross-member up front to hook behind. I know it isn't optimal, but I hook to the control arms in the rear. Thing to remember is just keep things tight.

Aren't we all odd nuts?