=Enigma=

I have developed a fuel leak at the union fitting on the float bowl after checking the filter in there. I have torn it down a second time to see if I could clean the mating surfaces and make it work, but it didn't. The surfaces looked OK but it still leaks after re-assembly. I am afrait to tighten it any more for fear of breaking the float bowl cover fitting. I guess I need new aluminum washers. Are they fairly standard or am I going to have a hard time finding them?

Well that just sucks. This sounds like a very poor design to me. Guess that's one thing that's gonna have to come off now. That new elec fuel pump is sounding better and better all the time.

Nice effort. I'm sure not everyone would know instinctually where and how to pour the stuff in and feel confident about it. Sorry montoya_fan, not everyone is as dim....er..I meant to say as bright as you.

The junk yards around here suck. I have never found anything that I wanted and have come to the conclusion that it is easier to buy what I need new if it is available. My time is infinitely more valuable than the difference in cost in most cases. The pump I referenced was used on 1980-85 carburated 720 pickups. It looks identical to the stock pump I have now. I was hoping someone else had tried it out already. I guess I'll be the guinnea pig if and when it becomes necessary, or I get tired noise the one I have now makes.

If I recall correctly from memory, the pump on my 73' has only two wires. One for power and one for ground. I don't see a reason for a 3rd. Must be for something else an not related but don't take my newbie word for it.

Does anyone know if the electric fuel pump off of a 80-85 Nissan 720 Pickup can be used as a replacement for the early 240 electric pumps, specifically a 73'. They both look the same to me and the cost is more than reasonable. See linky below. Nissan 720 Pickup Fuel Pump

Nice job. And it's my favorite color. I wonder why he chose to start with such a piece of crap. There must be some sentimental value in it to do all that work. I would have crushed it.

No. the bogging/misfiring was a bad plug wire. I replaced them all with a new set that came with the car. I'm looking into replacing the coil because it is very old and has a wierd screw in top that holds the connector against a screw post in the terminal. The screw cap is brittle and cracking and I'm not sure I'm getting the kind of connectivity I'd like. I've never seen one like this before. I'll get a pic when I get a chance.

Ok, no more missing/bogging. Turns out I had a bad plug wire. I got a new set with the purchase of the car so I swapped them for the old and voila! I didn't figure out which one was bad and I don't really care. I also replaced the filter in the engine compartment and all the fuel lines except for the ones between the folat bowl and the base of the carb. It is running much better and will actually rev past 4k now. The next step is to ditch the P.O.S coil that's in there, replace the fuel hoses on the base of the carbs and the ones near the fuel tank, as well as cleaning out the fuel pump filter. Also, the fuel pump makes a loud tap tap tap tap tap when I turn on the key. It quiets down a bit after 30sec or so but continues on like that indefinitely. Is this normal? Should I be able to see some air near the top of the fuel filter in the engine compartment or should the pressure keep it completely full. I would think it should be totally full since the pickup is near the top. Comments?

I think you answered your own question. If it was air tight, your engine would not run. No air, no combustion. You must have both air and gas to make a burnable mixture.

Sorry to hear about your car and glad to hear they came through with the check. Hopefully it will be as good as new or better when done.

Wait a minute. Do I need both a coil and the black box? I thought the BB was a "smart coil". Am I way off here? Please edumucate me...

Guys, I am in need of a replacement coil. I have a 73' 240Z with a single point dizzy. I am considering simply replacing the old coil with a Crane PS-20 coil, or switching it out for a Crane XR-700 Electronic Ignition Kit. So, should I keep the points or ditch em? Comments?

My insurance company only requires that I sign an affidavit certifying that the car is driven <5000mi/yr. No picture, no inspection. Requiring that we go and pay for an annual smog check would be ridiculous and unreasonably burdensome. I believe that car collectors and vintage car clubs would unite to opose this sort of heresy and defeat it swiftly.

Good to know. I'll ahve to attack that somtime in the near future. I don't wanna end up a fireball on some back road.

Any idea if this is true for a 73' or if the 73' even came stock with an E.P.?

Is there a stock shut off mechanism built in from the factory on cars with an E.P.?

I checked the filters inside the banjo fitting at the carb and they looked OK. I'll be replacing the fuel filter in the engine compartment tomorrow along with some fuel lines. Based on what Dogma said above, I did some more checking and was surprised to find an E.P. near the gas tank, after reading in a restoration manual that the 240Z didn't have one. Is the book wrong or did the previous owner add this? It looks like I have the older OEM Nissan version with the twist-off bottom. Any idea what I can expect when I twist off the bottom?

It could just be glazed. My 4runner started doing this a bit after I went wheeling in a boulder field and had to do a lot of clutch slipping to keep from damaging my undercarriage. I only feel the shudder now when it's cold. As it warms up it goes away. My clutch is not clipping and works fine. It more annoynig thatn anything else. Unfortunately, I think the only way to get rid of it is to drop the tranny and sand it off........

I just found out from the original owner that the car was only driven 5,000 miles in the last 15yrs. This goes a long way towards explaining the amazing condition of the car. That being said, what's the best way to purge the fuel system of varnish build up. Should I even be worried about this?

Ok, what's an E.P? External pump?

Thanks Beandip, I realized that I had forgotten about the fuel filter, or filters? Is there more then one? I know of the one in the engine compartment, is there one by the elec fuel pump as well? I'm still waiting for some maintenance books on this thing.

I'm not sure at this point. It drives fine but a little rough and starts missing badly above 4K. The plugs, disti cap, rotor, and points look ok. As do the plug wires, however I got a new set of plug wires with the car so I think I'll swap those in and see if it makes a difference. If that doesn't help, I will replace the coil as it looks a bit old and has a proprietary top post that holds the wire in by plastic knurled screw cap. Kinda strange and it's cracked. I just finished changing the motor, tranny and diff oils. Next on the list, clean the carbs and get them syncronized or possibly do a rebuild if necessary. All the weather stripping looks good but it's all a little hard so I'll probably replace all of it at some point, along with all the hoses that show signs of cracking or brittleness, particularly in the fusl system. The car appears to have some upgraded suspension components, namely it looks lower than I remember Z's being in stock form, and it appears to have aftermarket anti-roll bars but I'm not sure of this. The interior is in great shape, noting to do there but a bit of cleaning. The dash looks brand new. not a single crack or fading anywhere. Amazing.

Yeah, I thought about that too but there's little I can do about that. Man I wish I could afford to buy a house around here. Not having a garage or a tax write-off is killing me. :mad:

I hope you meat to say that it will NOT hold in moisture and it WILL prevent rust. Maybe I'm jus not getting it.