EricB

No that's not what I meant.... The OEM Fairlady headlight covers are clear of course but then have a chrome metal surrounding trim (whereas the Motorsport ones have nothing, just the three bolts showing that hold them in place).... -e

There was a british racing green one parked across the street from Motorsport right around mid-block just before the stage. It had gunmetal overfenders and (in the back) 16x9 RS Watanabe wheels, chrome fender mirrors and OEM Nissan headlight covers.... Anyone know who that is? Is he/she here? Better yet has anyone ever seen those headlight covers for sale here stateside? Thanks, -e

Anyone recommend a place to get a set of new jets for my triple DCOE40's? Preferably in the SoCal area, but I guess I'll do mail/internet order if I have to. Thanks, -e

Am I the only one to have this? the belt is new - it's properly tightened - the smog pump and its belt has been removed and yet whenever the weather gets hot and I step on it the think gets loud as heck. Make it extra tight because the smog pump isn't pulling on it the other way??? other tricks/solutions? -e

You could put an S20 4 valve cylinder head on your L24 but that would set you back $15K - The old cross flow rally heads? no idea how much those are as those are even more rare.... -e

FYI: I just came back from the source and it is NOT true. Japanese tail lights are still available in japan at NORMAL retail prices of roughly $170-200each. What's the difference? The added parking light picture above (between the top two bulbs) and the orange lens for the turn signal - the US one is red, remember? As for our headlights, they are 7" round. It would be very easy to get some 7" round Hella H4 lamps with removable bulbs and substitute the bulbs with any H4 HID ones provided you also got the matching igniters and voltage converters. The only disadvantage: wiring in an extra relay so the Nissan wiring doesn't melt, and the loss of your high beam.... an HiD bulb can only do low - beams.... -e

ooooooohhhh that's vic sias' car?!?!!!!!! ohhh.... yes I remember Vic from the NewDimensions days... -e

coil was changed distributor was changed resistors were changed sparkplug wires were changed battery is fine and yet there's still no spark....

CORRECTION!!!! The picture above is of the back of the Japanese tail light, the one below in this post is the US one.... Sorry....

The first pic I am uploading in this message is the back of my US tail light. There's four bulbs there, starting from top left corner here are the wire colors: Bulb 1: Grn/Wht, Grn, Blk Bulb 2: (top right): Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 3: (bottom right): Red/Blk, Blk Bulb 4: (bottom left): Grn, Blk In the reply I am going to post the pic of the backside of a Japanese tail light. It is wired differently and has an extra (Parking) light in the top row where the US tail light has a plug stamped with the letter "P". So five bulbs total and starting from top left corner here are the wire colors: Bulb 1: Grn/Yel, Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 2: (parking): Grn/Blu, Blk Bulb 3: Grn/Yel, Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 4: Red/Blk, Blk Bulb 5: Grn, Blk So, in other words the wiring for the reverse lights is the same between them and us. So is the bottom left bulb. The top three are different. On the Japanese lights I was thinking of wiring the positive (Grn/Blu) wire of the Japanese parking light to the positive wire of the rear sidemarkers. Now what about that extra Grn/Yel wire for the top two Japanese bulbs - Does anybody have an idea?

'72 240Z w/roundtop SUs brand new rebuilt engine Carbs just synch'ed and tuned. Yesterday afternoon idle becomes a bit erratic (jumps down - wants to die). No other problem. After dinner go for a drive and car dies at the light. First guess: out of gas - added a couple gallons - no start Pushed to gas station checked wiring, distributor, fuses, spark plug wires - nothing's out of whack... car won't start though. starter does turn battery voltage is still (somewhat) there lights, horn, etc works. ideas? bad coil? good luck finding one on a sunday in Los ANgeles, right?

When building an L28 stroker with the aforementioned diesel crank how is the L28T block better than any other L28 block - what is it about it that makes it better? Better cooling passageways? More ribbing in the casting for improved strength? -e

No... the RB series and the L series do not share the same blocks... The conservative bhp estimate on an RB26DETT is 280hp but truth be told it's probably more in the 300+ range.... You COULD put an S20 (original Skyline GT-R 2000 + Fairlady Z 432) cylinder head on an L series block (any one of them actually) but you can expect to pay upwards of US$15K it. Yes $15,000 for a twin cam cross flow cylinder head.... amazing.... -e PS: If you're not sure: S20 = 2000cc straight six triple carb'ed (Mikuni/Solex) 160bhp.

I found a Nissan Comp R180 lsd for roughly half of the price you listed 2ManyZs so I guess it's a given I should go for that then... And yes you are right, a lot of spirited driving, on track events once a month or so, and only the occasional autox unfortunately... I had a clutch-type lsd in my last (FWD) purpose built car and it was an absolute dream. Looking to repeat that for the Z. -e

ooohh i see.... fyi i checked prices on some of my favorite items between courtesy in tx and www.nismoparts.com which is a nissan dealership in seattle and everything except for the oil cooler that comes with the diff cooling kit was cheaper in seattle. thanks for the info nonetheless! -e

Given the choice, but not necessarily assuming that $$s are equal between the two, I'd like to get some opinions between the Nissan Comp LSD and a Quaife unit. Preferences, gripes, praise, complaints, etc Thanks, -e

Courtesy Nissan ... in Alhambra, CA? That's the one I know by that name. Somehow I think yours is a different one.... confirm? Thanks, -e