Arne

Yes..

Maybe they do in Ohio. They aren't at all common anymore here in Oregon, haven't been for decades.

Some would argue that CB radio isn't pertinent. To anything.

Oregon is one of the two remaining states that does not allow self-service gas. Long-drawn out story there. For my normal cars that's OK, and the attendants are allowed to hand me the nozzle to fill my own motorcycle tank. But I have to get out of the Z anyway to warn them about the chain on the gas cap. I'd just as soon do it myself. But it's not allowed, so I live with it.

That's the Flow Guide Valve, part of the evaporative emissions control. It's basically there to provide a way for the engine to suck evap fumes from the expansion tank and burn them. The three ports should be routed as follows. The 'A' port goes to the rear of the airbox. The 'C' goes to the crankcase breather on the block (near the distributor). The 'F' goes to the rear of the car to the fuel expansion chamber that's mounted inside the car in the right rear above the fuel filler. The most recent part number I have for it is 14910-E8800, which still looks as it may be available from Nissan for less than $7.00. But I'm having problems imagining how this part could cause a radical loss of fuel economy even if it failed in some way. Assuming of course, that all the hoses are connected properly. I wonder if the line that runs to the rear of the car is connected to the wrong spot near the tank. Perhaps connected to someplace low on the tank itself, so the vacuum purge is actually sucking fuel from the gas tank itself and not fumes from the expansion tank.

Also, there are currently eight (8) '240-Z' and two (2) 'DATSUN' sunshades still available. The rest are all pre-paid.

The car apparently was sold to someone in Rhode Island.

The order has been placed, with the required setup deposit.

Dave, if the demand get's too big, put me to the end of the list. I'm not in any hurry for one.

It's not required, but most recommend dialing in more timing advance if you haven't already.

Already discussed - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36153

I split this off from the technical discussion and into a new thread in the Group Buy forum. It's gone way past a feeler...

I think I'd want to do mine with the stock lower mount and a top snubber, if for no other reason than it would be less noticeable that way. I'm kinda funny that way...

Good question! My diff is still in the stock '71 (more forward) location. So I'm thinking the RT mount would still fit fine as long as I don't move the diff rearward. Sound right?

I'm LMAO here! I think I said this same stuff after I started getting in deep in the Bolder Tint deal. Which is finally moving along nicely, BTW, but way more headache than I thought it'd be.I might be interested in one too, Dave. You know my car and how I do my mods, how reversible is the RT mount? Could I go back to stock later without traces?

Yeah, should probably move this into the Group Buy forum.

I like the looks of the curved ones better than the Chastain, but no way would I drill holes in my tailgate for louvers, so if I were to add a set they'd have to be Chastain or some other brand that mounts the same way. Not real high on my priority list, but if I ever stumble across a set...

Actually, that appears to be a common problem. I had the exact same thing happen when I changed the thermostat on my car. What happens is that the shaft of the bolt corrodes and swells in the t-stat housing, so much so that the bolt won't turn and the head breaks off. Once you persuade the housing to give up its death grip on the corroded bolt, my experience has also been that the broken bolts unthread easily. In my case, I had a brand new t-stat housing waiting on the shelf, so I wasn't worried about destroying the one that was stuck.Short version - new t-stat housings are still available new from Nissan, and are actually rather affordable. I'd recommend having one on hand before attempting to remove a long-attached one. Oh yeah, ALWAYS thank your wife. It's a good habit to get into. Correct. Plug it at the t-stat housing, remove the pipe going around the rear of the engine, and cap off the supply to that pipe at the T-fitting on the side of the block.

Depends on your build. For an engine with higher compression, more aggressive cam, etc., there are probably measurable benefits to having a the more aggressive spark. Probably not nearly as noticeable on a mildly built motor, and for a car like mine that is totally stock (right down to the smog pump) probably little reason at all. I'm quite happy with the Pertronix in my 240Z. But performance-wise, my car is just about as tame as a 240Z gets these days.

MSA still sells brand new 240Z "euro" distributors (more properly described as "non-emission") for $200. So call it $300 for a new dizzy with Pertronix. I've also seen Nissan reman units for less. So yeah, that's still better price than a new Mallory.

Pertronix is great - IF the distributor in which you install it is in good shape. If the distributor shaft bushings are worn or the vacuum advance doesn't work, many of the advantages are gone. I have one in my 240Z stock dizzy and it works fine. But my dizzy only has 70,000 miles on it and is very tight. Typical 240Z dizzy by now is pretty sloppy.

I think I'd consider getting a new master cylinder that didn't need the plugs, but's that's just me...

For those of you who have not yet sent a check, please do so soon, as I will be laying my plans to sell off the unsold ones immediately after I get the pre-paid units shipped.

It's a go! I have contacted the manufacturer to place the order. Will be cashing all the checks shortly. I was told earlier to expect 3-4 weeks from this point. Status updates as they are available.