KDMatt

NEW PROBLEM!! No spark to plug #6... so basically it's running like crap. Brand new plugs, just checked resistance on the wire (7 ohms). Dizzy cap and rotor were just replaced 3k miles ago. I popped off the plug wires from the dizzy cap today to make sure they were clean, and I used some electrical cleaner just to be safe... did my dumbassery screw me over here? I need to figure this out before Sunday! o.o

In other words, it's my anal retentiveness at work here, and you think the "improvised" way I've come up with should work? I'll go grab a multimeter and find out... hrm... You're tellin' me! There's so much crap in there, sheesh!

Yes it was. Leads/terminals were also very firmly in place... just... corroded.

Thanks Mat... but I haven't got a Dremel, so I'm SOL in that department. Here are some pictures for reference, hot off the digital presses! As you can see, the broken bolt, the "new" locations to where I've put the ground cables, one to some kind of fitting that goes into the cowl, and the other to the metal directly above and behind the voltage regulator. I also threw in some pics of my old battery terminals for reference.

The reason I'm removing the cowl is because of this... There is a small bolt to which leads off of the battery cables attach to. This bolt is threaded into the metal "firewall" sheet... when I was tightening this bolt, it snapped and half of the bolt is still stuck in there, so the hole is pretty much useless. I don't have the right stuff to tap a new hole like this one, so my plan is to remove the cowl, drill the hole and put a new bolt and nut in this hole. Here, I'll go take pics and be back in a minute.

I also like the 280ZX, however I feel compelled to point out that they're really not much "heavier" persay than an S30 280z. In fact I'll even be so bold to say that a 280zx coupe weighs the same as a 280z 2+2. A guy I know in ZOOM had a 280zx parked next to me, and we took a look at our gross weight ratings... 'nearly identical, give or take maybe 200 pounds. The only explanation I can think of for why a second-gen Z-car feels less "sporty" (and I'm sure you folks can agree) is that I believe the purity of the original Z-car became dulled and bogged down with more rigid environmental restrictions and the addition of luxuries like power steering. The turbo, I'm told, is an absolute blast. Another guy in ZOOM has a zx turbo, and loves it! ... Some day I want to drive one, just to see what it's like. Anyway, as far as your poll goes, I love my 280z. Fuel injection can definitely be a big advantage since I think the general consensus is that it's a little more "maintenance" free than a dual SU setup. However with carbies you have the option of "dialing-in" your setup a bit more. It all depends on how much you feel like tinkering I suppose. Anyway, 'glad to hear that someone else is on board with the Z lineage!

Those all say Automatic Tranny/California Mine's a Manual Tranny/Oklahoma ... though I suppose someone could have done a swap, hrm... Also, I'm not having any luck with the cowl. Wipers are off, as are the screws, but I can hardly make it budge, not even by wedging a flat screwdriver down there.

Hrm, okeydoke. Anybody got a pic of an EGR and it's location I can look at? I have some PB Blaster, so I'll squirt some of that in the wipers. ... Also, where are the locking "tabs" and what do they look like? It's difficult to distinguish stuff on my car, seeing as a PO did a bad paint job and basically painted everything that wasn't glass, chrome, or rubber a silver color.

Hrm, I'll probably replace some fusible links. I have a couple of "iffy" lookin' ones. ... However I'm at a loss for "EGR?" ... ??? I'm afraid I don't know to what that refers. Also, can somebody please tell me how to get the air-vent/cowl thing off? I need to remove it to finish this project, like I said.

Well, for the record, I'm not a big fan of popping the clutch unless absolutely neccessary. I figure $40 spent on a new starter is a far better financial scenario than $80/90+ spent on a new clutch kit. Anyway, I replaced the battery cables tonight, and the voltage regulator. So far, so good, with the exception that I broke the bolt that the ground leads from the battery terminal are supposed to connect to. As a temporary measure I ground the paint down to the metal underneath the metal casing that houses the fusible links and VR and have simply bolted the ground cables to this, however, I'd like to effect a more "permanent" and safe solution. How do I remove the cowl? I want to get in there so I can drill a new hole and essentially create a new ground stud and be done with it. I don't want to have to worry about a botched job. I tried to remove the screws already, but it wouldn't budge... naturally, the windshield wipers were in the way. It can't be as easy as removing those bolty lookin' things on the outside of the wipers can it? I've tried that before and the wipers refused... refused to budge.

I've had another incident. Imagine, if you will... I'm on my way to work and I'm getting off on my exit, as I approach my turn (I have the clutch in) I take a quick gaze across my dash and see that the red LED on my voltometer reads "charge" indicating that the engine isn't running. I look to my tach. and sure enough this is the case. I quickly turn over the starter and the engine fires back up. I cruise down the street about 20 feet then take another turn, I press in the clutch and again, the engine dies. The only difference this time, is that all of the gauges on the dash are completely flatlined (no reading on the voltometer). So naturally when I tried to crank, nothing happened. However, on the second attempt the power came back, the engine fired and I got to the parking lot. The reverse trip home occured without incident. ... However, this has got me a little "freaked out" to say the least. The second occurance is leading me to think I might have an electrical issue here? I'm also going to check my plugs in relation to the first "die out" incident. I just started trying out a lead-substitute additive, and I'm thinking if it's possible that it's gunking/sooting up my plugs faster than my minor oil leak/rich mixture usually does. I want to go through my electrical contacts and clean them all up, however, I need a place to begin, so if someone has a diagram and/or walkthrough of connections I should clean up, I would really, really appreciate the help. Thanks folks! EDIT: Please take into account the following: The alternator was replaced 2000 miles ago. The voltage regulator has needed replacement for a while now (replacement unit is chillin' in the passenger seat) Battery terminals are very, VERY corroded (replacements for these were purchased directly following this incident).

I love MSA, good stuff, COLOR catalog, competitive pricing and OEM stuff wherever possible. 'Only other place besides Courtesy Nissan that could sell me an OEM fan coupling... and it cost be $20 less too!

Zman, at some point I will be in the market for a set of slotted mags. ... Also, if you've got a straight, rust-free hood I may also inquire about that (there's one at a junkyard sort of near here I'm going to try to snag soon otherwise). What about the driver's side front fender?

Is it possible that you leaked some lube from the tranny? I would think that if your tranny fluid level was sufficiently low it would cause a droning sound as well. You could have also accumulated some moisture in there too, I mean it did sit for 30 days right?

Thanks for clearing that up Dr. Blakeney. I just ordered a replacement horn relay from CSK in addition to a voltage regulator (might as well... ya know? I was planning to buy one, and orders $50 and over get shipped free).

Forgive me, but at the risk of sounding like a dumbass I feel compelled to ask this question: I have only recently become aware of the ride-height difference woes that can affect Z-owners when replacing shocks/springs. However, I only see this issue mentioned in the context of 240Z's. One is then led to assume that this is something that does not plague 260s or 280s. Am I correct in this assumption?

Hrm... the part itself seems to match what's in my Haynes book, the location just seems to differ. Like I said, Haynes is convinced that that horn relay is inside the car, just above the fuse box behind the Instrument panel under cover. ... It's possible that this is simply one of those little discrepancies between Z's and ZX's.

Actually I finally managed, after some digging, to locate my Haynes manual. According to them the horn relay is on the passenger's side near the instrument wiring harness above the fuse box.

TY Zbane, that picture helps spell it out for me a bit more clearly (and thank you Enrique!). I've also found this pic that helps illustrate what the horn relay looks like... it just doensn't give me a solid pic of where it is! http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/4/e16.gif I'm gonna check CSK, MSA, and BD parts to see who carries a new relay the cheapest!

Hrm... so okay then, relay still looks like the prime suspect. ... but I'm confused as to how the relay even got power in the first place? I didn't bump the horn switch at all. One hand was on the wheel, top left, other hand was on the stick. Horn started going off by itself.

Hrm... the relay sounds like the most likely suspect... HOWEVER... I will mention this. After I reconnected the battery, I gave the horn a quick tap and it seemed to be working normally, no... "stick"age. I'll still check the relay though... if I can find it. Is it possible to pop it apart, clean it out/rebuild and replace, or is it something I have to buy a replacement unit of and/or find one in a boneyard? EDIT: Zbane, you have to do an "Advanced mode" reply. Down at the bottom you'll see a "Manage Attachments" button. You use that to attach a picture.

Hrm... it's a possibility I suppose. The steering wheel is aftermarket and... I would estimate 20 years old at that. This is one of those moments where I'm feelin' the hurt of not having a FSM... if I had one I could trace the path of electricity to the horn and figure out where power could have seeped in if not a switch issue. This has got me freaked out man. I don't want to be cruising down the road then all of a sudden BEEEEEP! ... that would be a very embarassing, albeit annoying way to show up to work. o.o

Hrm... well I didn't bump the horn... and for now I've pulled the horn fuse so it won't happen again (though this leaves me without a horn... very unsafe!) I do seem to recall bumping the curb though. It was dark and I was backing in rather precariously. I don't remember feeling a jerk... but I don't suppose I remember much of anything... other than the quick shot of adrenaline as panic set in... I literally ran from the car to the house (for a flashlight) and to the garage for the tools... fumbled for the right wrench and popped off the terminal. That horn was going for about 5 minutes ...and... shoot... my custom settings on the stereo are probably lost now too. Damn. Is it possible I've got some dirty grounds? I can remember a while back when I was on the freeway I held down the horn button as guy moved over and nearly hit me. As I did though, the horn seemed to cut out a bit. Instead of a long beeeeeeeeeep like I should have gotten... I got more of a beeeeep...bp-beep beeeeep Related?

'Was backing into the driveway, as per usual. Without warning the horn starts blaring and won't stop! Quickly grabbed tools and dc/ed battery at positive terminal. Reconnected battery, no horn. Car is now in driveway. No casualties beyond a few disgruntled neighbors (seeing as it was 11 PM), a ringing ear, racing heart... and missed appointment with the Dukes of Hazzard county. What has me stumped is that it didn't start blaring again after I reconnected the battery. Is there a solenoid or something that controls the horn?! (wtf?) Somebody help me please, I don't want to wake up my neighbors again! :dead:

Hey yeah, that's true. For all we know the old car could exist simultaneously in several places at once in the form of salvage parts.