2ManyZs

With a fair price too.... http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2448653945&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1 Better hurry before Zvoiture sees them...:devious:

Probably the best thing to do is to call Ground Control and tell them what you have, along with the length of the strut insert body. Depending on how long those shocks have been in there, they may or may not be available, or they may be using a different insert now that performs better. Used to be they used inserts that were actually for a car other than a Datsun.... You'll need to know how long your inserts are, as you will need to get one that is the same lenght or shorter (which you might have to shim at the bottom) to fit inside your housings correctly. Illumina's are good, Koni's, and there are a couple other manufacturers now that make excellent inserts, but, you will have to go to a good supplier such as Ground Control to get the proper ones....I believe GC is selling the Advance Designs struts inserts as well. What you get, is probably more dependant on your racing budget than anything else... Once you decide on an insert, you can shop around for the best price. www.shox.com and a couple others might be able to get what you need once you figure out which part numbers you need. As far as what oil to put inside the housing, just use most any old motor oil you might have lying around, it's mainly there to prevent the inserts from corroding and getting stuck inside the housing, although, to a small extent, it does act as a heat sink as well....

Only the 77-78 280's with the N47 head had round ports, as did the F54 engines with the P79. I believe all the rest had square ports, at least the ones we had in the US... To answer Ed's question, the 6-1 have the closest to the same length tubes, which is the most desirable for better and equal scavenging of all cylinders... Tubing length and diameter is how header manufacturers and engine builders get the best power at certain RPM ranges, the length and diameter change how well the engine can "breathe". Usually done on an engine dyno, as each head will flow differently due to all the variables involved such as valve size, port design etc.. etc.. etc..

I'm wondering if this is aiming at one of the many LHD vs. RHD oddities..... I took a quick look at mine yesterday and saw no marking at all.. but it was too cold out there in the shop to go poking around too much....:cross-eye

Sorry for the confusion, I should have proof read my earlier post and changed my description a bit...that's what I get for being up late.... The "Thermotime" switch is the one that controls the cold start valve, and the water temp sensor is for the temp gauge.... If I remember corectly, the water temp sensor has a red wire and a ground, so the thermotime switch should the one that has no red wire... whether it's the one on the left or right, I can't remember.... If I remember right, there are 3 sensors in the water neck for the thermostat, two in the front and one on the side towards the distributor... not really sure what the one on the side is for....:stupid:

Actually that's not a silly question.... It's one you will probably get 100 differing opinions on.....some will say yes, some will say no.. If you were re-torquing the head after a recent head gasket replacement, I'd say no, since you know the bolts are lubed well, and are close to the proper torque. In your case, I'd back them off 1/2 turn or a little more, just to make sure the bolts are not seized. Besides, in your case, it's quite possible you may have to remove the head anyways, so making sure the bolts aren't seized would be a good idea so that you don't have one snapping off when/if you remove it for repairs.

Yeah, there's a couple way to test them, not only at the sensor itself, but also at the ECU, but, without a Factory Service Manual handy, I can't tell you the resistance values..... If you don't have a FSM, you are kinda in the dark as far as testing values of the sensors, if you don't have one, I suggest you get one as it will be ten times better than any other manual like a Chiltons....I don't remember if the air temp sensor is in the same location on the 78's as it was on my 75, so I'll let someone else answer that one. If you don't have one already, I know where you can purchase a new one for a resonable price... I can Private Message his contact info if you need it.

If it's acting like it's trying to vapor lock, I would first check the water temp sensor and the air temp sensor... it may be trying to enrichen it like it would on cold start when it doesn't need too...

Should have bought it myself and re-sold it for a profit... still would have been a bargain...:disappoin

Of course, there is always Keizer... but you'll pay through the nose for them.....:tapemouth

Uh huh, caught ya didn't I???? I'd have bought it myself when I saw it, but I've already got one ceramic coated and another brand new painted one in the shop.....:cross-eye

Diamond Racing wheels.... probably the cheapest that you'll find for a 4 lug.... steel, but one of the lightest on the market.

Hehe, I got lucky when I did a search for Datsun wheels.... funny thing is they didn't come up in my search the first time... he must have re-listed them since yesterday when I got my last e-mail on my favorite searches....

Sorry seerex, these are the ones he's looking for.... the ones you posted are 13's.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2448420904&category=38662 Here's another interesting set I found too.... I used a set of these on the ITS car in 14x7, and they look good on a Z IMO.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2447520858&category=43955

That's what I thought, I can't believe someone hasn't used the Buy It Now and snagged it up.... less than half the price of a new one...and it's a square port no less.....

Err, nope that isn't the ones he's referring to, I think they were 15 inch.... I remember seeing them, but didn't save the auction....

Square port, ceramic coated and no smog fittings.... and a steal at its Buy It Now price... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2446784323&category=33631

Well, everyone knows what I think of yellow cars.... What makes me wonder is why? Seems he's crossed over into being obsessed to me.... Anyone like that would kinda scare me.....

Hmm, and here I thought it was only NBC and CBS that were changing shows from one night to another for no good reason or pre-empting them altogether...

Hmm, looks like something the INS could use when deporting illegals..... They'd be too scared to try sneaking across the border again.....:devious:

Maybe he'll be like one of my old instructors, who finished on the podium 3 or 4 times before he finally took home the Gold.... which means next year should be his, since he keeps coming soo close....... Actually, Greyson and Brakke had built up such a lead over 3rd, that even going off track and returning, Greyson still never slid back further than 2nd....

I'm with Daniel on this one, before you start taking anything apart, pull the valve cover and verify the condition of the valve train first. Then dump oil and have a look to see if it may be contaminated. The rest of the cylinders look pretty good as far as compression, a little low on a couple, but it could be due to valve train problems. While you have the valve cover off, turn the motor over by hand and double check that the timing is correct as well. Check the cam chain for any slack too... As to why it won't fire off, it could be ignition related, as in coil, cap and rotor, ballast resistor, or one of a few other things. The main thing is right now to find out why you are getting a 0 reading on number 4. If after removing the valve cover and if the rockers are all in place with nothing missing or too loose, I'm thinking it a head gasket problem is a good possibility, as the cylinders loose compression the closer they are to number 4. If you notice, 1&6 have the highest reading, 2&5 are lower and 3&4 are the lowest of all. After you pull the valve cover and check the valve train, just for the heck of it, re-torque the head bolts, lay the valve cover back on(so you don't shoot oil all over), and re-do the compression check. If the compression in number 4 comes up, and also in 3&5, you'll know right away you have a head gasket or head problem.

Err, actually 2nd and 3rd... and Greyson had the lead for a short time after hounding that darn Miata from about lap 3.....:disappoin

Wonder if this is his "before" or "after" pic??? What do you think Rick?

They'll try to SELL anything as well...:stupid: