2ManyZs

or taillight gaskets, or check for an exhaust leak under the car, or the grommets around the gas tank vent lines that come up through the floor, or extend the tailpipe out a couple inches, or.......:tapemouth

I'm not sure if this may be your problem, but it might be worth checking. There is a switch of some type in the back of the speedometer which has something to do with the idle. I had a 75 280 that would not idle down between shifts or when pulling up to a stoplight. I put another speedo in and the problem was cured. I can't remember what it is called and since I no longer have an FSM I can't look it up. Might be worth a look see. A vacuum leak on the throttle control valve is also a good possibility, been a long time since I messed with FI much so can't remember a lot. :cross-eye

Don't need them on concrete. But be sure to use them on a hot asphalt driveway, I've got plenty of "divots" in mine from using jackstands and floor jacks over the years. Doesn't take long for them to sink into hot asphalt.

The second time I looked at it, the more I do like the dashboard. It has styling elements of the original with a very nice look. I would give it a thumbs up. I would be willing to bet if they were to market that as a kit they could sell quite a few to people who are tired of looking at a plain dash or wanting to get rid of the cracked dash board that has been hurting the looks of an otherwise nice car. It may appear a bit gawdy, but it blends in well with the rest of the interior work. Now, if they had just left out the V-8 and put their talents into an L-series engine, think of what they might have come up with.

Personally I think I would go for the N-42. E-88 has smaller valves than the N-42 and N-47. I've heard stories about the heads with the exhaust liners deteriorating over time. Just a thought you might want to research before you buy anything. You will probably find the N-42 much easier to find than the N-47 as I believe the N-42 was used for a longer period of time. Look on the Datsun Garage web-site for a good explanation of the pro's and con's for each particular head.

Now all we need are the answers!! Who was the first person to look at a cow and say, " I think I'll squeeze these dangly things here and drink whatever comes out"? Why do toasters always have a setting that burns the toast to a horrible degree which no decent human being would eat? Why is there a light in the fridge, but not in the freezer? If Jimmy cracks corn and no one cares, why is there a song about him? Can a hearse carrying a corpse drive in the carpool lane? If the professor on Gilligan's Island can make a radio out of a coconut, why can't he fix a hole in a boat? Why do people point to their wrist when asking for the time, but don't point to their crotch when asking where the bathroom is? Why does your OB-GYN leave the room when you get undressed if they are going to look up there anyways? Why does Goofy stand erect while Pluto remains on all fours? They're both dogs aren't they? What do you call male ballerinas? Why ARE Trix only for kids? If Wile E. Coyote had enough money to buy all that Acme crap, why didn't he just buy dinner? Why is a person who handles your money called a "broker"? If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests? If corn oil is made from corn, and vegetable oil is made from vegetables, what is baby oil made from? Is Disney World the only people trap operated by a mouse? If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons? Do illiterate people get the full effect from alphabet soup? Why do they call it an asteroid when it is outside the atmosphere, but they call it a hemorrhoid when it's on your butt? And the most important question of all: If a man is talking in the forest, and no woman is there to hear him, is he still wrong?

Not only that, but no one on the track has ever been seen using a cell phone, lap-top, PDA, shaving, putting on make-up, or any number of things that distract the typical driver in the street. Everyone on the track is concentrating on one thing. DRIVING!

If you have bypassed the water going to the intake it is not needed. However, if you have water going to your intake you definately should have it. It cuts off the water supply at a certain temp, and without it, you may be putting too much heat in the intake and it may cause you to vapor lock. I personally would rather not have any water at all, it will take a little longer to warm up but the cooler the intake charge the better the engine will run. You can plug off the water with a simple blind rivet in the line where it connects to the water control valve at the back of the intake or do away with them altogether. Are you positive it doesn't have it? It is the "nipple" that the hard line connects to at the back of the intake. About an inch or so long.

It is cable driven off the right side of the transmission. Could be the cable has broken, the drive gear has sheered off the pin, or maybe the cable has just slipped enough in the housing that it is no longer in the speedo drive. Check the cable at the transmission first, make sure the drive gear is still OK, if it won't turn, it has not sheered the pin off. Check the teeth on the drive gear. If that is OK, try to turn the cable itself to see if it is still engaged in the back of the speedometer. You can still get new cables and drive gears, a bit pricey on the cable, but it's better than driving around without a speedo and cheaper than a speeding ticket. MSA has them and probably a few of the better Z suppliers have them as well.

You have to admire his ingenuity and the work that did go into all the handmade pieces. I kinda like the interior work, I do find the underhood chrome a little to the extreme though. At least it's a later 280 so there are plenty more to go around. Wish I had the talent and time to do all the handmade stuff and have it come out looking as good as this.

I guess I should have re-checked my typing, it didn't come out quite the way I had intended.

Yup, street racing is dumb. I did it when I was younger, got caught once, never did it again. Ever ran a motorcycle through someones front yard at 60mph avoiding someone backing out of their driveway? Ever clip a deer in a Z doing 60 on a narrow back road at night (think about looking under the deer and wondering how far up the hood it might go) while trying not to be run over by the other idiot behind you? Remember, no matter what you have, no matter how fast it is, someone, somewhere, has something even better.

Not only that, but chrome is not the ideal coating for a header any more than paint is. They will turn blue, pit and sooner or later they will rust just like a painted one. Only good coating for a header is Jet Hot or a similar coating. :cross-eye They are the only coating that will stand up to the heat for any lenght of time.

If it is shifting OK, I kinda doubt it would be the clutch. It may be worn out motor mounts are letting the motor shift and bind up the throttle linkage. Check out your throttle linkage carefully, and have someone rev it up and watch the motor and see if it is "rolling" over in the mounts or not. You might even try a little stiffer throttle spring just to make sure that isn't the problem.

According to HS30-H's research, the VIN number does not necessarily mean it was the 14,946th produced as they sometimes missed numbers and did not adhere to a strict policy of numbering them is sequence. It is a late Series 1 car so that does make it a bit more desirable to a collector. The automatic may even make it a bit more desirable form a collectors point of view as they did not import a large number of cars that year in total, and the automatics would have been a rather small number compared to later models. You can check on www.zhome.com for the production numbers for the 71 model year to see how many automatics were produced and imported. The engine number will also be on the fender tag on the passengers side strut tower. Check this with the number you find on the block to see if the engine is original. A pic would be great if possible. It would be a lot easier to identify your wheels if possible and also get a good idea of the general condition of the car since it has sat for a long period of time. I also have an 11/70 build date on mine, seems to be a lot of Novemeber cars still in existence.:classic:

Hey Carl, is Poop Boys the ones with the advertising slogan that says "Ricers love us, Real cars hate us"??

Not absolutely sure, but I think if you use the straps from the 280 tank it will work. The 280 tanks are a bit larger by about a gallon. Perhaps someone else has done this and can give you an accurate answer.

Hey, how did I end up in the middle of this???:stupid:

The mechanic may be right. If I remember correctly, a fuel pressure regulator was part of the box of parts I received from the Nissan dealer for my 73 along with an electric fuel pump. It was part of the recall on the 73's to cure the vapor lock problem they had with the flat top carbs. Other parts were the fuel line heat shield and a 7 blade fan. Try a pressure regulator, they are quite inexpensive. If that is not the problem then you can look into a carb synchro and mixture correction. Sounds like you have a mechanic that knows Z cars pretty well, you are one step up on a lot of people.

Cool, I guess we'll have to start making a list of members in the area and maybe we can have a tent for the club there. Only 100 mile drive for me. :classic:

Seems like I saw a set advertised just last week, either on Too Intense Restorations web-site or possibly Bonzai Motorworks. I look at so many different ones I guess I should start making a list of where I see things like this.:stupid:

All depends on what is wrong with the switch I guess. When my 71 sat for over period of a couple weeks without being driven, the contacts must have corroded a little from the humidity, and it took two or three tries to get the lights to come on. Once they were on they were fine and never went out. It could be just a little too much play in the switch is not allowing a good contact in there, you may have no problems as far as the contacts go, just too much play in the switch itself. After a few thousand times being switched on and off, it's got to wear more than just the contacts.

Ok guys, we can argue till we need to upgrade our computers on the subject. No one is belittling anyones car. It is a simple fact that as delivered from the factory the 240 was slightly quicker due to its weight advantage. Once you start to modify a 280 even by taking off one bumper you will be taking enough weight off to make a BIG difference in performance. I ran my 73 240 against a brand new 280ZX Turbo many years ago, only stayed with him till he hit 2nd gear and the boost kicked in, then it was all over but the crying. I raced a 75 280 in Improved Touring that would have blown away 75% of the 240's I could have come across on the street, but compared to 240's built to the same specs I was slower. One reason was the handicap of weight and the FI. The chassis of the later 240-280 is built of thicker gauge metal than the early 240's (70-71) so you will have a hard time comparing them. And you will have a hard time getting any FI cars to turn 7K rpm's like a 240 will. So, what I'm saying is you can't compare apples and oranges if one is a hybrid. Stock is stock and modified is modified. One modification and it is no longer stock. Right? The only way to find out who's car is faster is to put them head to head and see who's comes out on top. That's how the IHRA and NHRA got started and all other forms of motorsports, to find out who's car is faster.

Have you replaced the switch with a new one or a used one out of another car?? If they were used you may need to break down and get a new one. My 71 does the same thing after it has sat for a while, it's in the switch on mine. Sounds like the switch to me, but it could be something else in the wiring harness or fuse block.