2ManyZs

I'm with Alan on this one. Gold looks good with red body colors, but kinda overpowers the light colors. Black look good on race cars or dark colors. Grey goes with any color.

I haven't done a hatch window... yet, but it seems that you should be able to do it the same as the windshield which I have done. First, put the seal on the window and then lay the window on the hatch. You might be able to do it by yourself if you turn the hatch upside down, but it might be easier with one extra set of hands. Get some line for a weed eater and wrap it around the seal about 3 or 4 times in the groove that fits into the hatch. Spray the groove and the line with some silicone lube, or perhaps some kidn of light grease to lube the line. Then with the hatch upside down lay the hatch on top of the window and using the line (might want to wrap the end around a screwdriver so something so it doesn't cut into your hand) pull it gently and steadily to pull the inner lip of the seal inside the flange on the hatch. This is where you might need an extra pair of hands as sometimes you need to push against the glass so the lip of the seal will pull inside the flange. Just keep pulling on the line until the seal has been pulled over the lip of the flange and you should be done. Pull all the line out and that's it. Sometimes if you are lucky it will pull the seal lip over the flange on the first time around the window, sometimes you might have to go one or more times around to get all of it set. Hope you can understand my directions.. I looked for an old post of mine when Kmack was putting his windshield in and couldn't find it......:stupid:

First thing you have to do is get the inner metal sleeve out. I use a 7/8 or 15/16 metal hole saw and put the control arm in a vise, and use the hole saw to drill the rubber from one side and then the other. The hole saw will go through the rubber fairly easy and it fits nicely around the inner sleeve and cuts the rubber almost in the center of it. Or you could use a drill bit and poke a lot of holes in it and then using a set of good vice grips, you should be able to tear out the inner sleeve. Or, you could do it the messy way and burn out the rubber.. but you'll not make any friends in the neighborhood with the smell..... Then I use an air chisel with a V shaped bit to remove the outer sleeve. With the V vertical, you can usually catch the lip of the sleeve and roll it over and then proceed to cut the sleeve. Be careful not to cut into the control arm, but if you do you can dress it later with a round file. A hammer and chisel will do the same, just take a lot longer. That's the way I've been doing it and it doesn't take long.....

I'd wager a guesstimate of anywhere from 1500 up to 4K. It all depends on how much will have to be replaced, as compared to repaired. Hard to tell with no pics, but, since it's a 70 with a fairly low VIN, the price is going to be a bit higher than you would expect to pay for a 72 or 73 in the same condition. It really depends on the rust and how bad it is, and how much can be repaired simply and how much has to have panels replaced.

If it's rotational play, you could also have problems with the drive gear. Best advice I can give is to pull the distributor and see if the drive gear has any play. If not, it's all in the distributor. If it does have play in it, you will need to correct that as soon as possible as the oil pump also runs off the same drive. That could be a major problem.

Ahh, the lash pads.... You should be able to find them at Courtesy... If you do a search you'll also find a few recent posts concerning them as well, might help you decide which thickness you need before you order. They are around 36 bucks for a complete set, and there are 18 or 20 different thicknesses......

Not really sure what you are referring to as rocker valve guides... Try http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo/s30/ You should be able to find what you need there.

You won't need the spacers if you re-drill the mounting holes. The spacers serve to lower the outer end of the control arm to make it parallel with the ground (when using shorter springs the bottom of the strut housing is raised) which puts the roll center back where it should be. By raising the inner pivot point you are doing the same thing. By moving the pivot point out on the crossmember you are then adding negative camber by pushing the bottom of the strut out away form the pivot. Either way works, and it does the same thing... however, using the spacers and either camber plates or adjustable control arm bushings is a lot easier and the car could then be put back to its stock condition if the situation ever arises that you would want to put it back to stock.

You can't compare 70's carburator technology with todays electronics. Nor can anyone say for certain that an early de-smogged car in a perfect state of tune will pollute anymore than a smog equipped car in a sad state of tune without putting them on a machine and comparing the levels. You cannot even compare the 74 cars with the flat tops to the 75's with FI as they are two entirely different systems. The early FI systems are now where near as good as todays, as todays systems are reactive and update their own paramaters during driving.

Don't think you'll find any that are more inexpensive than stock replacements..... Here's a company that has a few choices of manufacturers although you will have to contact them for their prices.. http://www.malvernracing.com/showcase.html

I'd go with plain old concrete... It shouldn't be much more expensive if you had a ready-mix company haul it in than to buy it buy the bag like that and hand mix..... Of course in your area that might not be the case.... But, before you put anything on it I would suggest painting the floor after it has cured about a week..... Lowe's, Home Depot have floor paint(Lowe's has a few different manufacturers) and then there is POR-15(probably a lot more expensive) and a few others.... Nuttin worse than having something spill on the concrete and soak in a leave a big ugly stain that won't come off...

Uh huh... but don't forget the mustache bar bushings and the infamous spindle pin bushings....

Only two way switch I know of that it might be would be the electric antenna switch.... don't know why it's where it is though, but if the radio isn't orginal it was probably put there when the radio was changed as they were built into the faceplate of the original radios.... What year is your car? The model makes a lot of difference in which fuse is which..

:stupid::stupid: :stupid: :stupid: Nuff said????? Don't know who made the springs as they are MSA's "Motorsport Springs"..... Now you need to do the rest of the bushings in urethane......:devious:

Zedd Findings can get a few sets of the fender mirrors.... but be ready as the price is rather high... almost 400 for a pair.:disappoin The mirrors are the one thing that is getting very hard to find and very expensive to get... the rest of the stuff is fairly readily available as there are suppliers for the over fenders and even the G-nose...

Modern Motorsports has a conversion kit using 280 stubs. Here's the link to the rear ones.. couldn't seem to find the front ones but if they do the rears they ought to do the fronts as well......Or you could convert it over to the 280Zx front hub by using the lower section of the strut housing and spindle, either way will work.... http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=46

All the 260's had the different taillights that carried over to the 280. I remember this car because of those rather ugly wire wheels...:devious: This one is nice, but it's not in the 14K catagory if you ask me... how many people would pay that for any Z that has a bungee cord holding the battery, especially when it's sitting in a Nissan dealers showroom?

I think I've got a dome lamp and fuse box cover in my parts car, as soon as our monsoon season is over I'll go take a look. Andy Russell, z@datsundude.com has the engine bay lamps for a decent price brand new, but the cargo straps will be a hard one to find... new ones are practically non-existant and used ones are, well, used and faded.....

If I'm not mistaken, this car has been up for auction before and not sold..... Yeah, the carbs are the early carbs. The interior is fairly similar to a 240 with some changes to the dash, especially the heater control panel which is the same as the later 280's, and some other trim changes. This car isn't bad... but it does have a few very obvious faults. First is the bungee cord holding the battery...:stupid: Second is the odd looking vinyl on the tunnel. That's just a couple things I picked up on right away... so there might be more oddities. I'd say this car won't bring much more than 5K, if it goes above that it won't be by much I believe. It's nice, but it isn't as nice as it could be. There are a lot of obvious differences from this and a 240 and just because it was only made for one year doesn't necessarily make it any more valuable than a 240.

With lowering springs and a tall sidewall such as a 70 series it's quite possible to have a rub. Might be better off to go to a 60 or even a 55 or 50 series tire. I've run 225/60's on 7 inch zero offset wheels with no rub with stock and also lowering springs on the street and adjustable coil-overs on the track(much lower than street specs).

There are 3 reasons to put a little oil in the strut housing..... 1. It does to serve as a heat sink in a small way. 2. It prevents the bottom of the strut cartridge rusting fast to the inside of the strut housing as water can and will find it's way into the strut housing over time. 3. It serves to work as a cushion for the strut cartridge inside the housing. Some of the aftermarket cartridges are a bit loose when installed in the strut housing and can move around inside the housing. I have seen a strut cartridge that were an "el-cheapo" replacement that had so much empty space around the body of the cartridge that the bottom of the strut cartridge moved and the piston actually seized in place due to the fact it was wearing a slot in the gland nut. Remember, the Z's were not delivered with sealed strut cartridges.

Yup, the axle flanges are what the driveshaft and half shafts bolt onto on the outside of the diff. What is possibly different is the bolt circle between the 240 driveshaft and half shafts and whatever the vehicle you took the diff from. If they won't bolt up, the only thing you have to do is to swap the flanges off the original diff over to the new one as they should be the exact same except for the flanges. I've been looking around but can't seem to find any definitive answer as to whether or not they are different flanges or if the 240 shafts will bolt right on... Guess the best thing to do is for me to go to the junkyard and find a diff and try it myself one of these days and then we'll have an answer unless someone beats me to it....

The 4x4 diffs are out of the front, as all the Nissan 4x4's used a solid axle in the rear as far as I know. The casting marks on the casing should be 38311-U3000. The Maxima, Z, 810 and the 720 4X4 all used the same casting number on the diff housing which indicates the larger 115mm ring gear. I don't know for certain, but it would seem likely you would have to swap the axle flanges on these, but otherwise it would be a straight bolt in affair. The later 85 and up 4x4's used an R-180 as well, but these will not work as one side of the diff housing was extended so that they could use equal lenght half shafts. BTW, the casting number on the 180 housing with the smaller 110mm ring gear is 38311-78500.

I've got a better question, why do we have to choose?