2ManyZs

Believe me, this was not a normal summer. This was more like an extended spring this year. Next summer you'll probably be glad you have A/C as it usually is in the high 80's and 90's from mid June till the end of August, with a few 100 degree days thrown in for variety. Motorsport Auto has 3 row radiators for about 195.00 and their 4 rows are 245.00 I think, but you can usually catch them on sale and save a few bucks. They bolt right on, and except for the extra thickness, look like the stock radiators. I've used their 4 rows with good success. I raced a 280 with no fan other than a small electric one for idling around in the pits and on the grid, and while racing the temps stayed right around 190- 210. Carl is right, on the street a fan shroud will make a huge difference if you can find one in good condition. And do make sure to check over the fan clutch and re-fill it if necessary. What part of VA are you in?

In Va with A/C I would always go for at least a 3 row if not a 4 row. The radiator is fairly expensive, but it will give you piece of mind, and it's a lot cheaper than warping a head because you got stuck in traffic. The A/C condensor will block a good bit of airflow, so anytime you are running in slow moving traffic, it will be doubly important to have the most efficient radiator you can get. The only way I'd go with a 2 row is with an aluminum radiator which is a lot more efficient than the stock type radiator.

Wish we could all be so lucky...... I'd be happy if I could find just a rust free bare shell.

Well, I know a guy who can do miracles with an English wheel, so stay tuned. I know his work is in big demand because of his previous work, but if I can get him interested, I'm going to try to get him to make me a few or teach me how to do it..... Be better than sittin on my butt in front of the computer all the time... FWIW, he used to work for Boyd Coddington... so you know he's good.

If you can't get them to post, send a PM to Mike or myself and we'll see if we can help.

Check out www.hybridz.org The site is dedicated to swaps like this. They have a complete forum dedicated to Nissan engine swaps. You'll find most anything you need to know over there... Over here we tend to stick to the straight sixes....

I think about the first one almost everyday...:disappoin

All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy. If the world was a logical place, men would ride horses side-saddle. A beggar asked me for 50 cents for a sandwich. I said, "First let me see the sandwich." What is a "free" gift? Aren't all gifts free? Teach a child to be polite and courteous in the home and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to edge his car onto a freeway. Two can live as cheaply as one, for half as long. Experience is the thing you have left when everything else is gone. When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to look like a nail. Diplomacy is the art of saying "nice kitty" until you can find a rock. A flashlight is a case for holding dead batteries. What was the greatest thing before sliced bread? My weight is perfect for my height - which varies. How can there be self-help "groups"? Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all"? If swimming is so good for your figure, how do you explain whales? Show me a man with both feet firmly on the ground, and I'll show you a man who can't get his pants off. Is it my imagination, or do buffalo wings taste like chicken?

I'd rather start with a non-rusted 1500 or 2000 dollar chassis than a 1000 dollar chassis that needed 1-2K in rust repairs... Yeah, 2K sounds like a lot, but as long as you don't have to worry about repairing rusted sheetmetal and spending a lot of money on labor to fix it if you can't do it yourself, you are way ahead of the curve. That's only my opinion.... but take it from me, buying a car for 750-1200 and thinking you can repair it, then realizing it's not worth the effort afterwards is wasted time and money. Granted, living on the east coast, where we see very few rust-free chassis, I'd give 2K for it, simply because I have all the parts it needs that were taken off rusted out hulks over the years so maybe my opinion is a bit off...:cross-eye

Err, you mean you aren't using a new locknut every time? That's one of the things the manual is pretty specific about....or should say, that's one thing the manual is pretty clear about, for a change....... I kinda like the way the early 240 5 speed is set up, they use a double nut, don't have to worry about staking it and having it come loose.....

Hopefully you don't work on the car after drinking the margaritas.... ROFL I've seen different kinds of spacers... just wondered if these were press-fitted over the "foot" or if it was loose.....

Guess we were both typing at the same time....:stupid: The only thing I would be concerned about at all would be if the gland nut were to be left loose or to come loose, is the "spacer" going to be able to move around under the cartridge? If it might, will it be so that the catridge is no longer fully supported or is the "spacer" fitted to the cartridge so that it can't move?

Steve, if you think about it, you can't use all the length piston...the bump stop you shouldbe using fits over the piston rod below the shoulder of the piston.... see what I mean? If you take the cartridge and put it in the strut housing, use a 2x4 across the top of the cartidge and compress it. If it stops before the shoulder at the top of the cartridge gets even with the top of the housing, you might have a problem. Now, it's highly unlikely you will compress the spring completely, but even if you do, you have the bump stop to keep the piston from bottoming...the only way the piston could possibly bottom out in the housing is if you completley compressed the spring and had no bump stop... then, it would be possible for the piston to bottom......If you didn't use a bump stop, you would run the risk of the top isolator beating on the top of the gland nut, which should keep the piston from bottoming in the cartirdge housing anyways.... See what I'm trying to say?

Much better, Mr. ZMeCruise..... Carl, I believe the 126 is for two S12 calipers only.. you supply your own stock rotors if the ones on your car need replacement....

Yeah? And......... maybe you ought to include the price? What about the spacer? You find a supplier for that yet?

The manual I'm referring to is for the 5 speed... I had a friend of mine copy the pages from a dealers manual years ago when I bought a 5 speed "in a box".... and have never gotten around to trying to put the "puzzle" back together.... I've got an old Haynes manual that has a lot of good photos and description on how to assemble the FS5C71A trans. One thing they specify in the manual is that there are different thicknesses of the circlip that hold the rear bearing which would affect the bearing spacer and the clearance issue you are referring to..... wonder if that is the case with the later 5 speed as well....

Marty, as far as the rear toe problem, the only thing you could do is to put the adjustable camber bushings in to be able to set it correctly. It's possible sometime in it's life it's been run into a curbing or hit one **** of a pothole and somewhere it's bent slightly...I guess the only way to know for sure would be to put the car on a frame machine and find out if it's in the chassis or the suspension itself. Of course, if you did that, they might be able to "tweak" the unibody enough to correct the toe problem. Or the car might have been hit in a parking lot in the rear at one time... either way, the results would be the same. As for the tire to fender clearance... you can't compare the different tire diameters like that.... You should have more distance with the 60 series simply because the 60 series is a smaller diameter tire than the 70 series,if the springs were equal that it... Try sitting both cars on a level surface and measure the ride height at the bottom edge of the rocker panel on both cars if you want to see what, if any, the difference in ride height.... FWIW, a lot of aftermarket springs I've seen have a bit of a "squat" in the rear for some reason...... One other question, were the "Euro" springs marked front and rear so that they were put on the right end? I've seen a lot of them that aren't marked...

If you look back a ways in his pics, I think you'll find one where the "peg-leg" is standing next to the correct one and the "peg-leg" actually has a longer piston then the original type. To be honest, I don't think you'll have any binding or bottoming issues, as you don't use the entire piston travel on the original one. You end up pushing the piston down an inch or so when you compress the spring enough to put the top isolator on and the suspension travel is determined by your spring lenght. These cartridges are usually used only when using coil-overs and you section the strut housing, which would be the amount of thickness of the spacer on the bottom. Seems odd though that they no longer seem to have the correct one for the original lenght strut housing and are trying to get away with using the one that is for another vehicle that they have been selling for 240's with sectioned struts.... hmm.....

I'm not sure what you mean by setting the clearance Kyle. According to all the info in my manuals, the rear mainshaft nut is to be torqued to 101-123ft/lbs but says nothing about setting any clearance. ? Thought I should add the torques spec for the counter gear lock nut is 72-94ft/lbs.

Depends on how much rust you find poking around in both cars..... If the 260 is the better of the two, you could take parts from the 280 to build that up, and sell off some of the other parts you don't need and probably get you total investment down to 500 or so.... Guess a lot of it depends on if you have room to store the cars and parts, and whether 950 is "pocket change"..... if you have both of the above, go for it....

Guess I should have sold something so I could have gone.....:stupid: David, are you going to do a FATT at Summit or the Car Guys? I used to race at Summit, so if you need some pointers or help with the car, send me a PM and if it's possible, I can come up and watch someone else have fun... like I did last weekend at the Marrs race.... :tapemouth

A good "rule of thumb" is to not go more than 2 inches section width of the tire over the width of your wheel. eg. with a 7 inch wheel, try to keep the section width close to 9 inches for the tire or you'll end up with bulging sidewalls and abnormal tread wear. Most tire manufacturers will give you the section width, tread width, overall diameter for each of the tire sizes they carry so you can determine which width to get in whichever profile you choose.

He has two complete sets in very nice shape listed as well as some other interesting items.... http://cgi6.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=mr_datsun&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

If you want a quick "ball park" figure....... I'd say 8K-9K.... give or take 1K... I'd say you could sell it in a heartbeat for 6500... but would you want too? Or would you rather keep it on the market a while and see how much you could get? A lot depends on how many other cars are in the area too....and how many willing buyers there are with the money.. but we all know you guys in Charlotte are loaded... An appraiser is a good idea, but, what they appraise it for might make you want to keep it as a lot of times, they will give you a higher figure than you might actually get if you were to sell it. There have been numerous cars on Ebay claiming to be appraised at 10K or more that I doubt were actually worth it.

The "B" type transmissions were used in the late 71 model year and after that.... The short shifter has a two piece mounting plate that bolts through the stock pivot on the trans case and moves it up away from the trans case by an inch. Your pic shows a stock unmodified B type shifter....