2ManyZs

I think you will find that the opening and closing of the thermostat does not equate to the exact operating temp of the engine... Since the thermo won't open fully till it's set temp, the engine is likely to run "X" degrees higher than the thermo temp, since the thermo opens slowly, therefore the engine can heat up above the set temp slightly. For instance, if you run a 180, the engine may run 185-190 at constant RPM, and with a 195 it could run 200 or more. Due to the demands on the engine, the thermo is always fluctuating its opening to try to keep a constant temp, however, if you put a large demand on the engine, it takes the thermo a short time to open after the warmer engine water makes it way through the system..... I used to run a 160 in the 280 with no fan while racing, and the engine always ran at 180-190 while on the track racing.... I'd suggest either a 180 or a 160... of course, I have seen some thermostats that are 165.. but don't know if there is one that will fit the Z....

Have you tried Chloe at MidwestZ yet? If Andy doesn't have one, and Chloe can't get one... hmm, that ain't good.... cuz they should be able to get anything any of the other suppliers can get... MSA might be a long shot, since they might have a larger inventory and have on lying around.....

Err, isn't that what Vic said Santa was going to bring us a while back? The active desktop?:stupid: Mystery solved.....

I don't think there is a huge performance difference between them, but you will find that a lot of people swear by the ones they have learned to tune. Tuning them correctly is the biggest challenge.

Uh, seerex, those Webers belong to one of our own members...EricB.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10059 I just saw a set of 44 Mikuni's on Ebay this week.... Here's a site that has Mikuni's and parts.... http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/classified.htm

You'll probably find a few more "odd" things that a previous owner may or may not have done.... I've always replaced the plastic plug with a brass petcock so I never had to worry about the plastic plug twisting off the next time I tried to drain the radiator... pull the brass plug out after you drain it and replace it with a more "modern" drain valve.. Right now I can't think of the right size....

Pretty sure they will interchange with no trouble, and if you need a pair of the covers, I think I've got a decent set in my parts car.

I;m not sure, but I think Mike has permission from Datsun76 to use the image on the main page, or whoever it was that came up with the image...but I don't remember what his Ebay username is, as he sells photos and images like this on his auction site.... Guess we'll have for Mike to sort it out.... I'm fairly sure it is not a "club" image.

He has DCOE's as well as DCOM's but not all the time in his auctions... He's got a good variety of both Weber and Dell Orto's, so just check back on his auction page or e-mail him, I'd be willing to be he has what you want. He had some good prices on Solex the other day when I last looked. FWIW, he has rebuild kits for nearly every carb he sells, but very seldom ever lists them singly....

The plastic drain plug probably bit the dust and the PO replaced it with a brass plug.... the plastic "wing-nut" drains had a short life span..... You could just pull the bottom radiator hose to drain it, but it's a will make a big mess unless you have a large drain pan.

Actually the 240SX motor is a 4 cylinder.... I don't think there were ever any DOHC L-6 Nissan engines in the US in any models.....SOHC L-6's, but no DOHC's.......

It is more than likely the cable itself, since the cable is disconnected from the rear wheels, sounds like it has been like that for a while. You'll need to buy a new cable, and then drop the driveshaft to access the nuts on the threaded rod on the bottom of the brake handle assembly, unless you like working in a place you can't see what you are doing..... dropping the driveshaft makes it so much easier. There is a double nut on the threaded adjustment rod, which will likely be frozen or very difficult to remove... and when you re-install the new cable, you will want to use the adjustment rod, so go ahead and take it off and clean it up before you start putting it back together. There are a couple of the clips such as what are on the brake hoses you will need to remove to get the cable loose, along with a couple springs that hold it up away from the diff. It's not a difficult job, just a dirty one..

If it is trying to run after the key is turned off, one of the most likely culprits is that your timing is too far advanced, or your idle is set too high. Timing that is too far advanced could also contribute to the overheating you are talking about as well. First, check your timing, then idle speed, then go after the other obvious things like a loose fan belt, inoperative fan clutch, clogged radiator, faulty water pump etc, faulty water temp sensor or gauge..... You will find a few new tech articles dealing with the fan clutch in out Tech articles, and if you do a search you should come up with threads dealing with all the others, or just peruse the engine forum.

I think you know I'd take one, but until I get the chassis straightened.. well, too many projects, too little money.....:disappoin

One of the guys who bought my old ITS 280 is a Tech inspector, and there is a rumor that in the near future, all cars will be required to have the "Nascar" type door bars or their equivalent. At least in the higher SCCA classes, perhaps starting with IT... So, I would recommend looking into cage kits which have the main hoop mounting to the floor and not the fender wells, such as the Autopower roll bars do. It would make it nearly impossible to put multiple door bars with the main hoop mounted on the fender well, or at least very difficult and expensive as they would have to be fabricated. Another option besides Rebello and Autopower is Kirk Racing Poducts. I've heard that his prices are quite reasonable, and the cages quite well made for a weld in cage kit. I've talked to a couple people who have his cages, and seen a few, they do look pretty well made. And for a price under 700 or so(shipping not included), they are a decent alternative, and they can build it any way you desire. The only other option is custom bent and fabricated cages, which will cost more, yet be even safer.

Hate to see the damage.... but at least it's mostly cosmetic. You are lucky you didn't damage something that cannot be replaced with either new or good used parts like the radiator support or inner fender. I just posted on another thread about trying to fit a home made bumper behind the MSA bumper cover/air dam for this exact reason. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=65871#post65871

Here's a link to the full body kit, or you can purchase the front/rear and side skirts individually..... http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-1504_50-1510&Category_Code=7AP

The best way to get rid of them is with the MSA bumper cover/airdam....which is part of their "aero kit" But, if possible, I'd almost consider keeping the bumper shock absorbers and putting a flat steel bar across there for a little more protection and piece of mind. You could bolt in a 2 or 3 inch wide piece of 3/8 steel and end up with some resemblance of a bumper under the cover. Especially on the front, where with just a little bump, you can end up with a lot of damage in the radiator support, and inner fender panel that the headlight buckets bolt onto. The rear panel where the taillights mount is no longer available as a replacement panel, so any protection you can give it in the event of even a minor fender bender is a good idea. Even a parking lot "oops" could do a lot of damage under the cover if you have nothing else to protect it.

Don't forget to check the firewall grommets and the shifter boots.... they can also let in quite a bit of exhaust smell.... even the slighest leak either at the head, or the manifold to head pipe can give off quite a bit of exhaust and it will be dragged back into the car through either the firewall or the trans tunnel.

Rick, it proves to me a person doesn't have to be intelligent or have the least bit of common sense to have enough money to buy a fancy Mercedes.....:stupid: In other words, he looks to be an "educated idiot".... which is one thing we aren't short of here in the US...:devious: Looks to me like he tried to take the can out while it was still spraying paint out of it.....

I've got a question for Chloe... how'd the cat get the name Leopold of all names.....:cross-eye Say that three times real fast when you're mad at him/her.....

Could be a combination of the two, but first, change the voltage regulator.... it's cheap compared to an alternator, and it may the whole problem to begin with.... Also, check all the connections on the alternator, the connectors to the voltage regulator, the condition of the belt, and your battery terminals while you are at it.

You may have just lost your discount from Chloe.. She's one of those cat people ya know...:cross-eye

You can buy a brand new Boxster for less than 50K.....a 2000 Boxster goes for less than 35K with low miles... I smell scam, rip off and can hear the Bronx cheer at the same time....notice the NY tags and the Nevada addy on the site?

Err, the brake pedal in automatic equipped cars is larger than manual equipped cars..... Should be a couple people here with automatic pedal assemblies, since a few have converted from auto to manual...