2ManyZs

Hmm, forget the coil idea then.... No water lines to the intake, you can pretty much rule out vapor lock... still a very slight possibility, but more than likely it's not vapor locking... Which leave the clogging fuel tank pickup as the most likely, or the ignition module... when you say a "new" dizzy, do you mean a reman unit or a used one that is "new" to your car?

They'd work(like re-welding the lower perch), but you'd need to do some work to them to get it to sit level...the 260 housings are longer as are the springs...and somewhere in all that, the diameter of the housing changed as well. The 2+2 springs are even longer than the regular 260 spring IIRC...

Sounds like either vapor lock, clogged fuel pick up in the tank, or possibly the coil is bad. The coil could be overheating due and the spark is breaking down....or, it could possibly be the ignition module on the dizzy that is going out..... would give you nearly the same symptoms as the coil. That would be my first three picks for what it could be....

One thing you could do is check to make sure the wheel cylinder is where it should be in the mounting slot in the backing plate.... I'm wondering if it is possibly slid one way or the other, and that might be causing the arm to hit the backing plate, and not work on the star wheel the way it should.

There's nothing wrong with those numbers... sounds to me like the first thing you ought to do is a complete tune up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points etc, then check your timing. After you do this, drive it a bit and then see what the plugs look like. If they are still loading up on 1-3 and the rest look OK, you'll need to go to the carbs. No sense messing with the carbs till you rule out all the other possible problems that are cheaper and require less work to fix.

zbear, you have a Private Message.

In that case, it would have 2 smaller hard lines running along the fuel line......

Nope, the 73 wouldn't have had the carbon canister. The line is the return fuel line, that was used with the stock carbs.

Damn, 10 days and that's all they did to it? I'd have to say you got one lucky break there..... Glad it's back where it belongs, but damned if I wouldn't be getting in someone's face if I had to pay to have my property returned to me..... Bad enough it was stolen in the first place, then to top it off they got cojones enough to charge you impound fees before they let you have it back? That kinda crap just isn't right.....:mad:

Starting to wonder if he's been using the old "Dog ate my homework" excuse at school too....

Found this on one of the racing forums... now this looks like fun! I'll supply the snow tires if you let me take a lap or two in your car Tom.....:devious: http://planet-torque.com/ms/wag011804/01182004run2.wmv

Done... guess we didn't think to add the new year yet cuz things are kinda quiet on this side of the pond for a while....:disappoin

If you do a search for Y70 head, you will find a couple old threads that Alan replied to with a lot of good info on this particular head.

I'd have to guess they are marine diesels out of a pretty good sized ship... Most of the smaller engines Detroit made for commercial applications were usually either V-12 or V-16's if I remember right........

Here's the link to the Maxima/810 flywheel info.... http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#Flywheel

Here's a nice little 3/8 Craftsman.... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944594000 And here's one of their most expensive 1/2, they've got another one 30 bucks cheaper without the "high tech" digital readout.. which, if that is the only way to tell if you have the proper torque won't do much good if you can't read it while you are trying to torque the bolt..... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944597000

Yup, Snap On is very expensive...if I remember right the one I have is the 1/2 50-250 like this one... and if my memory is correct, I paid nearly 200 for it back in 79.... so, the prices really haven't gone up that much in the last 25 years.....:cross-eye http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?tool=all&item_ID=55264&group_ID=954&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog I'm with Mark, if you can buy a good quality 3/8 for the light stuff and one 1/2 inch for the heavier torques, you'll be way ahead of the game... especially if you can get the two of them for around 200 bucks or less. One caveat with the click type wrenches, Snap On has always said to dial it back to its lowest setting and lock it while storing it, don't go below the lowest setting, nor leave it set at a higher setting. I guess it's due to the springs inside being left under tension that they losing their shape and/or temper over time and you may not get a correct reading. Like I said, you get what you pay for....think those are high, look in Snap On's catalog and see what the really big ones go for, the ones that go upwards of 600ft/lbs....:cross-eye I used to use one on Cummins engines that would wear your arm out just holding it up, let alone torqueing head bolts at 375ft/lbs....

The majority of the fasteners on a Z will be under 175ft/lbs. So, if you can find one that goes from 10-150 or so, you'll have 90% or more covered. As far as the "scale" type versus the "click" type, I prefer the click type ratchets as there will be times when the scale is gonna be hard to read, or the wrench is gonna be in an odd angle making it difficult to get a good consistent pull on the wrench to get a proper torque. That is, unless you plan on only torqueing parts when they are on the workbench, then, the scale type is probably going to be more accurate. Torque wrenches are like any other tool, the less you spend, you'll get a cheap tool. The cheapest torque wrench I'd buy would be Craftsman or a comparable brand... no bargain basement "no-name" brand for something as critical as torque specs especially if you do any engine work. Personally, I've got a Snap-On torque wrench that is over 20 years old.... my only regret is not getting one that goes as low as 10 ft/lbs when tools were a bit cheaper way back when.....

It's also possible some of it is due to the condition of the engine, as the engine wears, the tolerances will increase, and when warm, the bearings have a bit more clearance than they should have to promote the highest possible oil pressure... I'd put a sending unit in for sure, or, hook up a mechanical gauge temporarily so you know exactly what your oil pressure truly is. If it's OK with the mechanical gauge at all RPM's, you have piece of mind that no matter how innacurate the stock gauge is, you still have pressure that is not going to cause premature wear on the engine. The Turbo pump is a good alternative if your pressures do check out a bit low. The pump doesn't increase your pressure all that much, but it does increase the volume and that is just as important if not more so than the increase in pressure.

Gavin is right, we won't tolerate trying to start arguments or posts with this type of antagonistic remarks.

Oops, couldn't find the darn pic...

Kinda like this one Tom? It's not only got rust, but the hood and roof are now 1/2 covered with a nice light green mold/mildew/fungus from being parked under the trees for 4 years or so..... It's even started on the sides now, especially around the rust holes and the holes drilled in the side for some idiots idea of a body molding... hmm, one molding gone, another "mold"ing taking over....

Which Dodge blue? This is my Ram with the Intense Blue (code VB3).... they've got another one called Patriot Blue I think that is a bit darker.. not sure what they have this year. I'm considering painting my second Z with it... if I ever get the first one done that is....:tapemouth :cross-eye

I got my last set at Northern Tool... be willing to bet Harbor Freight has them as well. The race car suppliers usually are a little more expensive, but not by a lot......

I was looking at the wheels as well... they looked at first like just plain old aluminum slots till I looked a little closer...I like em.... I'd like to know who made them as well.... They remind me of the wheels on the mid-80's Corvettes with the way they don't have a squared off lip on the rim...