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2ManyZs

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Everything posted by 2ManyZs

  1. Blue will work as well as red.... Nope, tools ain't cheap, but they sure do make work more "likeable".... If the CH has at least a 10 gallon tank on it, it will work, it will just have to work a little harder. Make sure it flows at least 4cfm at 90 psi, or your larger air tools will not have the power they are designed to have. Course if you "flew" south like most Yanks, I might make you a deal on mine..... :cross-eye
  2. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    It can, as well as severely fouled plugs, but that is usually in more extreme cases. It could also be that his carbs weren't tuned as well as he thought, but I didn't want to say that...... :cross-eye
  3. Northern Tool or Harbor Freight will have most anything you need. They normally carry name brand tools like IR (Ingersoll Rand) or CP (Chicago Pneumatic) as well as a "generic" brand. I've got a bunch of CP tools and have never had a problem with them. I'd go for the mid-priced stuff, just to make sure you get your monies worth. I'd get at least a 3/8 in air wrench, either a butterfly one or the ratchet style, and a decent air chisel for doing those bushings....One of the mini die-grinders can be helpful if you don't already have a Dremel tool. If you want to really splurge, be sure to get a 1/2 inch impact too, of course if you plan on any body work there is always sanders........ As far as compressors go, I would try to get one with at least a 10-20 gallon tank. The more tank capacity you have, the less the compressor will have to run to keep up with the air tools if you use them a lot. FWIW, Sears has a roll around model with a 33 gallon tank for 300 bucks. I'd stay away form the pancake type as they are more for using with nail guns where you only use a little bit of air at a time, not constantly like you would with an air sander or grinder.... I'm looking at the Northern Catalog right now, they have Coleman Powermate compressors for about $250-$350 for 15-33 gallon tank sizes....better to get something a little bigger than what you really want, I'm on my second compressor and wish mine was bigger.......Runs constantly when using the blasting cabinet and drives me nuts with all the noise.:stupid:
  4. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Two main causes for "dieseling" are idle too fast, and/or timing is a bit too advanced. If it's idling more than 800 it will do it. If the idle is Ok, double check your static timing..
  5. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    It fits in a 510 engine bay, so a Z should have even more room to spare.... I've seen many pics of the swap, but can't remember where they were....:stupid: Ought to be ablt to find one in a junkyard for a few hundred form an early car, but they will only have 170hp or so.... can't remember which years had what hp in the early Z-31's.
  6. Uh oh, stoking that fire again huh??? :devious:
  7. First off, since i don't know much (if any) about the later ZX's like yours, I don't know if they still have the vent tank in the quarter panels like the earlier models. If not, then one place I would look is your fuel filler hose. You might have a gas cap that is not venting correctly and is causing the tank to pressurize and it could be that is causing a small leak to develop in the filler hose. I would check around the tank carefully, if they do have the vent lines like the earlier models then that would be the first place to look.
  8. Britt, Ben is talking about the Australian market, which got the 260 from 74-78, they never got the 280 starting in 75 like we did. If I remember right, the 260's, even the FI 260's in the US had the R-180. The first year for the R-200 was in the 75 280Z. But, the 280 also got the R-180 in 77-78, so the 280's had either/or, not just one rear diff during its model run, it depends on the year and model.
  9. Alan, sounds like this might be something interesting to you. http://www.forbes.com/2002/05/27/0527feat.html Personally my vote would go for the Sunbeam Tiger.....
  10. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Suspension & Steering
    Guess I was a bit faster..... :cross-eye
  11. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Suspension & Steering
    My choices would be: 1. Polyurethane 2. Gas cartridge, not sure you can even find a fluid type anymore 3. R-180, lighter and it's already in there, no parts to buy to convert 4. 5 speed, especially since you could then lower the rear gear for more benefit of the 5 speed. 4 speed if you don't plan on doing any more drastic changes to the car. 5. Probably, if you can find a way to mount the hitch that is.... 6. Header and a good quality 2 1/2 inch turbo exhaust When or if you do the bushings, do a search on the site, there are many threads dealing with this sometimes aggravating job..
  12. You should investigate as to whether or not the rust is coming from under the windshield gasket. If it is, you really should take out the windshield and fix it corrrectly, otherwise it will only come back and the damage will be even worse and the cost will go up accordingly.
  13. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    You probably would be best with a higher volume pump than the stock one. If you can find someone close by that knows their "stuff", you can have the stock pump shimmed to give you the increased volume and pressure. If nothing else, MSA has the higher volume pumps avaliable for about 70 bucks. They offer 15-20% higher volume, so that should do the trick, and it is a new pump so you would not have to worry about it for a long time......I think the higher volume pumps they sell may actually be a pump designed for the ZX. My choice would be the new pump from MSA, cheap insurance.....
  14. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    Most of the viscous type LSD's were in the later Z series, don't know that one is available for the earlier type diffs. If this is an R-180 with a LSD in it, 300 is a very fair price. The Nismo LSD's were in the 700+ neighborhood when new. That was just for the limited slip itself. If it is an R-180 it is just a simple bolt in job. If it is in an R-200 you'll need the rear suspension crossmember from a later 280 that came with the R-200, the mustache bar form the 280 and the front diff mount for the R-200.
  15. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Depends on what you mean by a high decibel level when you engage the clutch. Is the noise a squeel? If so, it sounds more like the throw-out bearing may be going bad..... Synthetics in an old engine are probably a waste of money, as they won't cure any wear problems in the engine. Synthetics like Red-Line MTL in the transmission might help a bit, as they may help with sticking synchronizers and improve the shifting to a point, but you should make sure the trans is not in need of any other repairs by checking the old fluid for metal shavings before you re-fill it with more expensive fluids... A synthetic diff lube may help control a heat problem, but only if the rear is in fairly good shape, same as the transmission, check the old fluid carefully. The synthetics do have a slightly lower viscosity than regular petroleum based oils, while giving the same protection.
  16. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    THINGS FOR MEN TO DO WHILE THEIR WIVES/FAMILY ARE TAKING THEIR SWEET TIME SHOPPING AT WAL-MART/TARGET OR THE MALL....... Get boxes of condoms and randomly put them in peoples' carts when they aren't looking.. Set all the alarm clocks to go off at 10 minute intervals.. Make a trail of orange juice on the floor to the rest rooms.. Put some M&M's on layaway.. Walk up to an employee and tell him/her in an official tone, " I think we have a Code 3 in housewares," and see what happens.. Move CAUTION WET FLOOR signs to the carpeted areas.. Set up a tent in the camping department, and tell others you'll only invite them in if they bring pillows from the bedding department.. When someone asks if they can help you, begin to scream, and ask "Why won't you people leave me alone".. Look right into a security camera and use it as a mirror while you check your nose hairs.. In the auto department, practice your Madonna look using different size funnels.. While handling guns in the hunting department, ask the clerk if he knows where the anti-depressants are.. Hide in the clothing rack, and when people browse through, whisper, "PICK ME! PICK ME!".. When an announcement comes over the loudspeaker, assume the fetal postition and scream, " NO! NO! It's those voices again!".. Dart around suspiciously while humming the theme from "Mission Impossible".. Tell the manager if they moved everything out of the store, you could make a really neat indoor go-kart track.. And my all time favorite... Go to the dressing room and yell really loud.... Hey, we're out of toilet paper in here!"
  17. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    One particular Christmas season a long, long, time ago, Santa was getting ready for his annual trip but there were problems everywhere. Four of his elves were sick, and the trainee elves did not produce the toys as fast as the regular ones so Santa was beginning to feel the pressure of being behind schedule. Then Mrs. Claus told Santa that her Mom was coming to visit. This stressed Santa even more. When he went to harness the reindeer, he found that three of them were about to give birth and two had jumped the fence and were out, heaven knows where. More stress. Then when he began to load the sleigh one of the boards broke, and the toy bag fell to the ground and scattered toys everywhere. More stress... So, frustrated, Santa went into the house for a cup of cider and a shot of rum. When he went to the cupboard, he discovered that the elves had hidden the liquor, and there was nothing to drink. In his frustration, he dropped the cider pot, and it broke into hundreds of little pieces all over the kitchen floor. He went to get the broom and found that mice had eaten the straw end of the broom. Just then the doorbell rag, and irritated, Santa trudged to the door. He opened the door, and there was a little angel with a a great big Christmas tree. The angel said, very cheerfullly, "Merry Christmas Santa. Isn't it a lovely day? I have a beautiful Christmas tree for you. Where would you like me to put it?" Thus began the tradition of the little angel on top of the Christmas tree.........
  18. If this one is going to end up being your "school, spare" motor the only thing I would do is have the crank checked for straightness, and if needed polish the journals. When you re-assemble it, be sure to "plastigauge" the bearings to make sure your tolerances are in spec. New rings and bearings, new oil pump, maybe a water pump and a gasket set would be about it. Perhaps you might want to go ahead and put a new timing chain and tensioner, just so it doesn't need to be done for a while and you should get a few years out of it. I'd spend more time on the head and valves since you could use it later on the "race" engine. You might end up needing a spare head more than a spare block (hopefully) so it might be better to go ahead and do one head now, and do the other one later when you do your second engine.
  19. 2ManyZs commented on HS30-H's comment on a gallery image in 02 Nismo Festival
  20. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Me? Play with electricity? I still bear scars....... :stupid: :cross-eye
  21. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Me thinks it's on a thermostat Daniel, if it still runs after the car is shut off.......
  22. No reason to spend big bucks on a back up motor, a buddy of mine ended up using the original engine as a back up for a race, got third place that weekend. The motor was the original one in the 73 (my first Z) that I sold him so he could go racing. It had over 150K on it. I would just do a bearing, ring and gasket set. I would however, at least do a "home" honing on the cylinders so you get a better seal on the new rings. If you spend money on new rings, you might as well at least get all your money's worth out of them.
  23. Guess you could have just taken them into the machine shop and had them cleaned along with the block..... I've used Berkibile 2+2 Instant Gum Cutter, works pretty good. Get it most auto parts stores. That and a brush should clean them up pretty good. Ask the machine shop, there should be something you can use instead of an aerosol solvent that will work just as well, in fact they may even sell it themselves. Only thing that would prevent you from using the old pistons is the ring grooves, or large nicks in the piston tops. Check the ring side gap with the new rings, use a feeler gauge and check the gap on the top and bottom of the ring where it sits in the groove to see if the piston groove is within spec. Not sure the spec at the moment but it's probably around here somewhere......This is not the ring end gap, it's the ring gap on the top and bottom as the ring sits in the groove. Of course, the end gap is not critical until you are ready to put the pistons back into the block.
  24. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Old For Sale Ads
    I guess if you said you were selling it to buy a 350Z you really would have been in for it!:devious: Hopefully you'll be kind enough to let her have a Cobra and not one of those "plain old Mustangs"....You'll get more "leverage" that way....
  25. 2ManyZs posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Doh, yeah, well, that will work too.... Just be a little careful banging those gears, shifter might not be quite as strong as it used to be, be hell trying to shift on the way home using you index finger jammed into the shift rail...:cross-eye :stupid:
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