Jeff G 78

I have no idea what you mean. I wouldn't know anything about throwing magnesium auto parts on a campfire and then spraying it with water. Nope... I had no idea magnesium even burns.

I've had to do that on at least three different cars. Once the aluminum and steel corrode together, no amount of heat or force will break them apart. Even after the face of the drum is broken in two, the remains are still tough to separate from the hub. In each case, it was a parts car, so I just needed to get the wheels to roll so I could move the car without dragging the rear tires.

If I re-theme my race car, I might just have to copy that.

Assuming it isn't corroded together, you just need to back off the brake adjuster and slip the drum off. If it is REALLY corroded, nothing short of destroying the drum will work. I've had to cut many parts car drums in half when the car sat for many years in a damp area. :tapemouth Be sure to ALWAYS apply antiseize to the hub pilot prior to reinstalling the drum.

More pics please!

Nice to see you back Norm!

Double zombie thread!!! It was first revived in 2007 after three years and now again after five more years. What we have here is a Zombie Apocalypse!

It's easy to do like the others said. Use several feet of 3/8" rope and a KD3087 valve spring tool. You can do one retainer in a matter of 30 minutes total.

Nice car, but I wouldn't pay that much for a basket case. He's probably being honest, but without being able to test drive it, you couldn't tell if the rest of the car is sound. The trans, diff, and suspension could all need work. Also, he doesn't say much about the body or paint. I see a crease down the driver's side that would need to be repaired and repainted.

Rob, that looks like an adult-size Matchbox case. Very cool!

That is a seriously bad-arse car Brandon!

^^^hee hee^^^

Are you really running 215/65R16 tires? Those would be over 2 inches taller than stock.

Wow, awesome car Christine! That paint is phenomenal.

Listen to Mike. Go find a rust-free Z and use the rust-belt ones for parts. Been there, done that. Starting with a Z that has any visible rust will turn into a never ending disappointment. If you want though, post the pics and we can try to help value the car.

Hey Blue, Thanks for the diagram. I need to do this to my race car's flywheel over winter. Do you have any idea what the weight is of the one in the sketch? I assume that the pics in post #4 do not go with the sketch in post #3, so it would be nice to know how much is removed.

Looks great Rob!

That's the one! I couldn't remember which thread it was in and searching wasn't working either. Thanks Phillip!

Sometime in the last several months, there was a forum post detailing the design of a wood engine stand. Does anybody have the link? I searched, but couldn't find it. I need to build one today since I'm buying a F54 engine tomorrow from a forum member in Canada and I'm transporting it on a flatbed truck so I want it to be stable. I don't have an engine handy to take measurements.

Story of my life Guy. Being in Michigan with a Z car is a lonely place to be. There are three Z racers I talk to regularly online about engine and chassis setups. One is in Georgia, one in Texas, and one in Washington state. I'd love to be able to get all of our cars together on a track so we can really see what does and doesn't work, but we're just too far apart.

Hee hee... I have no idea how you do it now Guy.

So Guy, what color Z are you going to do next? (ducks and hides)

Very nice Guy!

The last alternator I bought came with sleeves wire-tied to the mounting ear.

The fact that you heard noise is bad. If the cam timing was off, you might have had piston to valve contact. If that's the case, you will have bent valves and damaged pistons. Hopefully, that's not the case.