Jeff G 78

Yeah, the pics are too grainy to tell where the jack stand points are. I put jack stands right at the LCA pivot point of the front crossmember and the rears on the crossmember just outside the front diff mount. I angle the rear stands to match the angle of the control arms.

The rails on pretty much every S30 are dented for just that reason. You'd think they would be strong enough, but they are not. They will crush if used to support the car. Even on rust-free cars, the rails are weak.

On a hoist, I'll use the rocker pinch flanges, but even on a rust-free Z, I use the same points you do. The diff isn't the best place to lift though since it stresses the mustache bar bushings. If you have poly bushings, it shouldn't do any damage. As for the diff, only the rear cover is aluminum and there is zero chance of damaging it. The mounting bolts are in shear.

That is a really odd noise. I've listened several times and I'm stumped so far. It doesn't sound internal to the engine

I have an RT mount in my 260. Great product, but I don't think I would install another one without removing the diff. I eventually did get it in there, but it was much harder than it should have been.

Nice pickup. If I ever find a deal, I might pick up a set of triples. Even if they sit on a shelf for a few years, I'd like to put them on a car someday. I had a set of Webers on a 240, but I was moving and had to sell the car. My 280 has a well-functioning EFI, but I would consider swapping it to triples. My race car has SU's and those are perfect for that application.

Wow, I never knew that there were two different close-ratio S130 boxes. I always thought that the close-ratio box came in '81 with the F54 engine.

Completely true Chas, but after 40 years, unless you are the original owner and know the history of the car, it's very possible that one or more of the components has been swapped. I always check the collar height just to be sure and I've found them to be different than OE quite a few times.

Like others stated, I think you might have a throwout bearing collar mismatch. You likely left the throwout bearing in the "new" trans before installing it, but it might be taller than the collar in the 4 speed trans. Get under the car and see if there is play between the slave cylinder rod and the clutch fork. If there is no play and you don't have an adjustable slave from a 240Z, you will need to pull the trans and swap the collar back to the one from the 4 speed trans. Don't drive it the way it is if the collar is wrong. You will ruin the clutch and burn the flywheel.

Look for a 180 - 200TW tire. They are sticky summer tires, yet won't be race-only.

Unfortunately, I doubt we could make it work. I don't remember having any slack in the fuse box wiring and certainly not in the ECU wiring.

There are actually several good summer tires, but Tire Rack and other retailers do not sell them in the winter, so it's a bit hard to look them up right now. Look at the following: Hankook RS3 Dunlop Start Spec Toyo RA1 BFG Rival That said, you might struggle to find a street size in 15". Racers run 225/45R15 and there are some great tires available, but the OD is about 1.5" smaller than stock. On my street Z, I run a 16" wheel because 205/55R16 and 225/50R16 tires are widely available.

The fuse box would still be in the way on the passenger side.

I know that the OP's panels were already installed, but if they weren't installed yet, what about applying a coating of Plasti Dip to the mating surfaces prior to installation? Has anybody tried it?

Thanks for posting BGM.

Guy likes every color 240. When they are restored as beautifully as Guy's cars, they look great in any color.

I've seen lots of 4" speakers in the front wings of the console and they all looked and sounded cheap. Speakers need a solid surface to mount to and the thin plastic console isn't very stiff.

Yeah, I would have bought these for my '78 if available. I have only rear speakers and it really needs something up front.

Great looking car! I still think it's interesting how all of the late 260's and 280Z's have a crooked LH grille turn signal. Both of my cars look that way and I've seen lots of photos on this site and others with the same crooked signal. You have to wonder how it slipped through the QC process for so many model years.

I run them on my 10:1 CR street Z. At the time I bought them close to 20 years ago, they came with lousy rings. I've heard the rings are now better.

They sure are purdy.

I didn't touch the Z today, but I did buy two sets of 15x7 Konig Rewind wheels for the race car. They are $100 off at Discount Tire Direct with free shipping. $360/set after rebate.

Not sure what you paid, but the '70 looks pretty solid. How are the floors and rails?

Yeah, the rule is that you can't tease us with a new purchase and not post pics. Congrats.