Jeff G 78

I did my tank myself, so I never checked the local shops. Call around to radiator shops and see if any of them boil gas tanks.

I have a pedal box that I will donate to the cause. I swapped an auto for a manual back in 1986 on a '76 280Z. I did it alone and I finished it in a weekend. It's going to be really tricky to work on the car in an apartment complex. Chances are really good that the fuel tank will need to come out and be cleaned. Every Z I've had that has sat had a rusty tank. Here's what the inside of my 260Z tank looked like after it sat for 20 years in an Indiana barn. I actually got it looking really good after lots of work. I was driving South on I-75 to Ohio with my wife and I saw your Z on a trailer a few hundred yards away going Northbound. I called it out and said "I know that car, it was just on Craigslist!"

Welcome to the club! Do I have a good eye or what? I figured the owner would show up here at some point. You are only 15 or so minutes from me.

I believe so Cliff. The shape of the lip is the same on all pans, I believe. Lay them on the pan and see if the shape is the same.

Thanks for the pics Guy. I was wondering how bad you got hit. So far, our winter hasn't been too bad. I've only had to shovel the walk once and the snow blower hasn't come out yet.

Cliff, try to find a set of the steel rails. They are there to keep the pan flat and spread the pressure from the bolts and you are likely to have leaks without them. If I had a set, I'd be happy to send them to you, but it would be spring before I could get to my spare engines to pull a set. I'm sure somebody here has a set laying around. The longer bolts do go where the steel rails go.

A friend sent me this picture today and it confused me a bit. Does anybody know anything about this Z? The shape is off enough that it barely looks like any original Z lines are left. The rear quarter window is shaped different and the side window is clearly much longer than stock. If I had to guess, I'd say the wheelbase is longer too. The door cut lines are completely different that stock. It's a tube frame car with a widebody, but there is usually more of the original car than what I see here. I'm told the picture was taken at LeMans.

Great to hear from you Ron! Glad to hear Brian ended up with your Z. Did he ever move? He was beyond out of room.

Another member we haven't heard from in a long time is @geezer (Ron). I know he had some health problems a few years back, but I think he was doing pretty well the last time I talked to him. Edit: I just noticed that Ron did have a few posts in 2015, so it's good to see he is still hanging around a bit. He used to be a regular forum contributor.

Same here Sarah! Keep fighting the good fight. The Z community is here for you.

In its day, the Lightning was fast, but since then, we've really stepped things up. The '13 - '14 GT500 makes the Lightning feel slow. It is crazy fast. No rush on the head!!!! Here's me on a race track in an old Lightning media picture.

Hmmm, that was a long time ago, so I really don't remember the exact size of the filter, but I think it's more square than the 280Z panel filter. Obviously, it's way different that the 240Z oval filter.

I work at Ford Performance, previously known as SVT, and about 18 years ago while working on the supercharged SVT F150 Lightning program, we performed extensive flow testing on various production and service/aftermarket air filters. As it turned out, our SVT paper panel filter flowed more air and filtered much better than any aftermarket panel or cone filter including the K&N. I never even considered a K&N after that testing for any of my personal cars. The gauze filters rely on the oil to capture the fine particles. If the oil isn't perfectly applied, there is either lower flow or lower flow. Even when correctly prepped, they don't perform that well. YMMV and it's quite possible that we screwed up the testing and they really are the best thing since sliced bread (disclaimer added just in case they find this thread )

I don't love it black, but I do like the contrast. In the gray color of the tail light panel, I think you'd have a winner! So, are you saying that the MSA version is better, or just that it's different? I need to buy a BRE spoiler and I'm torn between the MSA, BRE1 or BRE2.

^^^ LOL^^^

They look good to me. I just replaced the rotten chassis lines on my DD Honda and I struggled to get them perfectly centered. You shouldn't have any problems with those flares.

I lost a TC nut and bushing once as well. I too now Loctite them.

Not that it matters much, but the Left Rear is actually the correct starting point on a Z due to the brake line routing. It sounds like the MC needs to be bled again.

Sounds like a solid plan. Be sure to post pics of the coated spoiler. I'm undecided whether I like the original or the new version better for a street car.

Let us know if the creaks stay away or return over time.

I run a stock filter on my SU-fed modded P79 engine. It runs great.

I was travelling South on I-75 near Toledo today and I spotted a green 280Z on a trailer. I recognized the Z from a NW Ohio Craigslist ad. I just wondered if we have a new Z in the state of MI?

TTT makes very high quality stuff, but I would be afraid of those on rough roads. They completely eliminate recession which is a huge contributor to impact harshness. I have poly on my street Z and I hate them. I'm going back to rubber on that car. My race car TC rods have poly on the front side of the body with old rubber bushings behind the body and it handles impacts much better than my all poly street Z.

BRE spoilers look great body colored or as a contrasting color. My plan is to install a BRE spoiler on my 517 Light Gold 280Z and paint the spoiler dark gray to match my Panasports. I haven't yet decided whether to go with chrome or powder coated Futofab 240Z bumpers. If I get the painted bumpers, I'll recoat them in matching dark gray.

What do they weigh? They look rather heavy.