240260280z

I think if the struts were cut then it may be the Tokico Toyota inserts that you may have. Wait for John Coffey or John Jeffery to chime in. They know best

Wonderful video. So nice to see such long and continuous footage!

My Fav:

Hmmm giving it more thought. Is it possible that one of the sensors could have been installed after the thermostat and the sensor pushed sideways on one of the thermostat side towers?

The copper alloys are available from Autozone with terminations and bend easiest but they are pricey. I can't find them online but I did see them in the store.

I only saw it once. When the rad cap was off and the car started, the pressure blew water out of the rad filler hole like a volcano. There are pressure gauges for coolant systems that you can use. Just fit one on with the motor cold then run until warm. Rev it occasionally during the warm up period to see if the pressure changes much while reving. Merry Christmas!

Check for intermittent compressed air or exhaust from the chambers getting into the coolant system when the block is cold to be safe.

Wow Kats, I'd love to have that life size poster in my garage! Nice information! Merry Christmas from the AtlanticZ club!!!

Yellow78 there is an obscured run that is unused in North American cars and tied back in the wiring harness. It is for lights in the door panels of some other regions. It is convenient to use but the trouble is knowing that it exists. I only learned of it last year. FYI: There is also an unused run to the fuel tank in some Z's.

Thanks Steve! You are the electric Guru here. I should have asked long ago.

Great! Did anyone swap out the map light too?

Nice stuff!

Great! btw I looked at the new LED dome lights when doing a resto but wanted to see if others had luck. What do you think? Is the cabin brighter with the LED vs incandescent dome light?

Well you can creatively run and secure your own brake lines without bothering with the old. Some sheet metal screws, clips, and good line is all you need. Go to a shop in the stix to get the job done by "good ol' boys" Get FedHill (copper alloy) or similar line if you DIY: http://www.fedhillusa.com/ Here is a nice clip:

A splice is ok so long as the metal upstream is good. I would just get them or a third party to double check the quality of the metal.

My friend who now has his car set to your recommended settings loves the way it handles! BIG THANKS and Merry Christmas John/Beta!

Don't Drink Then Drive ho ho ho

Corrosion in the switch in the dome light or on the contacts? disconnect battery then measure resistance to ground through the circuit to see where the problem is.

Please double check but I think Pertronix make a kit that retrofits into the existing distributor housing to eliminate points. Double check that the tach will work with this upgrade. Getting the tach to work seems to be the more difficult part. Another popular swap is a tach from a 280zx.

Reference: http://urlpulse.co/

I think John may have meant this one: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200355955_200355955 Here is what I use for larger diameter stock springs: http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/2920186/Steering-%26-Suspension/Strut-Coil-Spring-Compressor The narrower units would be the most versatile as they would work nicely with narrow diameter coils and the larger diameter coils.

Some background on the jumper (name on edge of launch ramp): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob_Gill_(daredevil)

Beautiful transformation Mike!

I did not look closely. It came out of a search for "Christmas Datsun" on Google.