240260280z

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Grannyknot's cat is grumpy 4 sure

Defense

Google Translation to English ** There can be different from the setting value of the actual are the manufacturer standard value. It's become a symptom, for example, such as stalled as "Gobogobo~tsu" when intense lateral G took it cry almost necessarily bite the air, "the waterfall climb carp" intense length, with lateral G in the hall led to the center venturi To go sucked (the only gasoline) product gas that is a state, it is considered a symptom caused to become "dark" state time. It is not so that does not reach the hole down the oil surface As a workaround, but the numerical values ​​we try to avoid here value because it also involved in (condition over the next G) ride of the people. To say that the lower the oil level, please also consider the connection to the main is also a little slower. There is a difference of reaction to G in any vertical cab or horizontally. ← here Add photo-4 My Interpretation: Intense lateral G force and cause fuel to rises up inside the carb and flow into the passage leading to the center venture. This fuel-only entering the main circuit's aux venturi causes a rich period. To prevent this, our work-around is to recommend lowering the fuel level based on the G loading of the individual’s driving and G forces in the carb. Please also note that lower fuel levels will also delay the main circuit starting. The reaction to lateral G force is different between vertical(side-draft) and horizontal (down-draught) carbs

I was wondering about the 4 month delay bit and !!!!ROAD SHAKE!!!!!.... it seems to contrast against the trial period and production dates as the problem was not resolved until much later and there seems to be no 4 month delay from road tests to start of production? Reference thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/7801-production-number-1969-a.html

Thanks Bonzi! I just tried both for 30min (soak then rub with paper towel). The vinegar cleans faster and better (look at the carbon on the top holder). The lemon seems to be less yellow in tint but shinier. Have a look:

Google Chrome translates automatically. Google used to have a great translate tool but it has been dumbed down and works much worse than what they use in chrome.... the web was taken from us geeks! Here is a watered down Google translation http://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carry-back.com

You're not in Kansas anymore Toto so read each page right to left!!! Project X: Datsun Fairlady Z Ch.1(end) Page 1 tr - Mangago

The same tuning site gives these idle enrichment screw settings: [TABLE=class: grid, width: 500, align: center] <tbody>[TR] [TD=align: center]MFGR[/TD] [TD=align: center]Idle Screw[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]SOLEX40φ, 44φ (4 type) 　[/TD] [TD=align: center]2 turns ± 90 °[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]SOLEX (Mikuni PHH) 50φ[/TD] [TD=align: center]1/2 turn ± 90 °[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]WEBER DCOE 152,151 [/TD] [TD=align: center]2 to 3 turns[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]WEBER DCOE 9, 50φ[/TD] [TD=align: center]1/2 to 1 turn[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]OER 　[/TD] [TD=align: center]2 turns ± 180 °[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

I saw this on an excellent Japanese racing/tuning site (http://www.carry-back.com): [TABLE=class: grid, width: 500, align: center] <tbody>[TR] [TD=align: center]MFGR[/TD] [TD=align: center]CARB[/TD] [TD=align: center]Fuel Level from top[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]SOLEX (Mikuni PHH) 4 type[/TD] [TD=align: center]40φ 44φ[/TD] [TD=align: center]19-20[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] [/TD] [TD=align: center]50φ[/TD] [TD=align: center]20-21[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]WEBER[/TD] [TD=align: center]DCOE 8, 9[/TD] [TD=align: center]29[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] [/TD] [TD=align: center]DCOE 152,151[/TD] [TD=align: center]29[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]OER[/TD] [TD=align: center]40φ 45φ 47φ 50φ[/TD] [TD=align: center]29-31[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] On a 240z resto, and my first kick-at-the-can of webers, I set DCOE 152's at 25mm (high fuel level) as per Keith Franke. It seems to bring the main in earlier and i run leaner idles than most report. As mentioned above, the OER 40mm overflow point in the well is ~ 23.5mm down from the ledge compared to a weber's 23mm as reported by Keith Franke. So it seems the Carry-Back site sets the fuel ~6mm below the main jet well's overflow/spill point compared to Keith Franke's 2mm-below-overflow. The Carry-Back site discusses acceleration and fuel sloshing so a lower fuel level may be better for racing and high-g driving.

Comparison with original and dipped/soaked for 2 hours and just dried. The orange/copper colour lessens through hand rubbing with a cloth and a brilliant yellow shine appears . Sad to see one of the 6 F11 e-tubes is an F2 ... I bet the PO had fun tuning. I also noticed the lemon juice did not remove crust in the grooves of the accelerator pump piston. I think ultrasonic cleaning in a solvent and a mild acid like the lemon juice would be best form of cleaning.

Jet tower casting Note the rubber figure 8 O-rings that could dissolve in carb cleaner. The passage to the main circuit's aux venturi is ~23.5 mm down from the top ledge. Carb body with the jet tower removed.The tower is keyed and slides in. A screw in the bottom secures it. The body casting has holes on each side for accessories. A nice throttle return spring and bracket is typically attached here. the other side could hold a heat reflecting shield. There are 3 retaining holes for the venturi/choke, aux venturi, and front tube.

Each throat has a brass stub to block a choke from sliding back and hanging up the throttle plate. 3 progression holes precisely drilled in a line A ported vacuum hole (left of the progression holes). I think this will improve highway mpg as it is located where the throttle plate will be when cruising. Dual rod accelerator pump with brass cylinder wall sleeves Return spring similar to DCO50/55's

Forget the tank and run hoses to a jerry can next to the rear wheel. The hoses will connect to the hard lines running to and from the engine (the pump will be in series on the send side of course).

Some good news to redeem this thread. Lemon juice works great on cleaning brass jets, correctors and e-tubes from side draft carbs. I just tried it in a dish and place the parts in it and swished around. The black deposits and corrosion disappeared and they brightened right up. I then heated the lemon juice in a microwave and it worked a little faster. A neat benefit is that it unsticks tight holders, jets and air correctors. They loosen up and can be easily disconnected by hand when some previously needed a tool to separate.

btw I always liked these enhancers in the studio, in halls and in home audio systems. I am guessing they will work nicely in a car too: Behringer: ULTRAFEX CAR EX100 just don't use the silly surround sound hmmm I am thinking those surround sound stereos for home theater with all of the small satellite speakers may be great as a donor of drivers for car audio speaker placement experiments. I see these all the time in the classifieds and have a couple of panasonic systems here that sound OK.

Hey Bruce, If you could install an EQ of some sort (Graphic or Parametric), you could tune the system's spectrum to your liking. Some radios have a provision of mid stage access at -10dBV or +4dBm levels for connecting an eq. If not, you can install a "pad" and load the power amp section of that radio appropriately then tap off this at the appropriate level to feed an EQ followed by a new and dedicated power amplifier to drive the speakers. I am an old audio geek with applied physics and many years of recording experience and studio/room design. Good sound and car audio are difficult to say in the same sentence. The road noise, vehicle noise, speaker placement compromises, internal geometry, mix and proximity of highly reflective (glass and plastic) and highly absorptive (seats and carpets), and modal excitation of the confined space make it a difficult place for good sound. All of the problems in the last paragraph will typically make the sound reaching your ears usually one or two of the following: bright and tinny mid-range and honky low and boomy peaky at certain frequencies A parametric or graphic EQ can often lower the offending frequencies or enhance the missing ones, however it is a quick and dirty compromise but the best (cost and result) solution I have found. Here are a few other tricks: If you can move the speakers around to have the mid and highs aimed directly at your ears/head .... helps with clarity and definition. Using glass as a reflector to accomplish a nearly direct path with one reflection is the next best compromise that Bose typically has applied since the old 901 speakers. (Aiming mid and high drivers at windshield or rear glass to reflect at your head is an example). The mids and highs travel as direct rays like light so you can aim these drivers easily and if you can see the driver with your eyes, it is a good placement. The secondary reflections will also travel straight lines, so if you can see the driver in a mirror that is held against a flat reflective (hard) surface, the sound will also travel that longer path and interfere with the earlier and direct wavefront. A typical example would be a tweeter on the left side of the dash with a direct path to your ear and the 2nd reflected sound hitting the glass beside your ear.... not much you can do unless putting foam on the reflection point is done.... not practical if you want to roll down or look out your window ..... so you have to compromise. Two tweeters in each headrest is one solution I have seen applied. Works great in a convertible with the top down too, The low frequencies below 300Hz do not travel as waves but they excite the room/cockpit modally. These are difficult to treat w/o moving the drivers. Typical ways to adjust the lower spectrum are to move the bass driver into or away from a corner as the bass spectrum is often reinforced by corner placement. a neat experiment is to crank up your home stereo then walk your head into a corner of the room.... the bass really builds up! Putting a speaker there helps increase the bass. You can also do this at home by moving your speakers out into the room then into the corners... you will hear the bass increase (you can simply move a L speaker into a corner and an R speaker in the midlle of the room then use your balance control to A/B them if you want to be geeky and empirical for real time comparison...you can do the same in the car by having your son move the drivers while you sit in the drivers seat and a/b ) Some manufacturers install bass drivers in the foot wells to excite that area to enhance bass by taking advantage of modal buildup in the confined space. Others use the rear trunk. this can usually enhance the bass but can also make certain frequencies resonate. small bookshelf speakers typically have this problem. Usually it is not a problem but sometimes you can hear it....sort of like the horrible 2,400 rpm drone of the MSA turbo exhaust... the system sounds great until you excite the pipe at these frequencies. Well that is enough of a dump to get you into and out of trouble. I'll ring you later this week to touch base.

Maybe get a motorcycle mechanic to build one. They do a lot of clutch and brake cables which are similar. I fould this: McKinney Throttle Cable and Bracket - Datsun 240Z S30 - Raw Brokerage Another partial kit: Throttle Cable Conversion Kit - Interest? Does not require a different Throttle Body - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z A great DIY: CABLE_INSTALL

A good friend has the Scorpio GTZ kit. I have access to the car.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/50008-weber-dcoe-throttle-cable-install-%7C-parts-list-basic-descriptions.html Lokar Throttle Kickdowns http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/44905-need-pics-triple-mikuni-linkage-especially-firewall.html cable throttle linkage - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z

Sadly 0C and frost last night

Have a good one!

I just got back on Thursday. I was there for work. It was in a nice beach/surf area...Japan's California if i had to stereotype the place. lots of bushy-haired surfers old and young, great waves, beautiful beaches and lots of vans on the weekend with surfer's camping in them.... a cool vibe for sure. I hope to go back. I wish I had more time as Korea was so close and I was there when the Korean and Japanese F1 window occured... go Weber!

Unibody and Panel Highlights GNose Dash Air

Differential Relocation Modification