240260280z

Perfect! Thanks! I'll talk to Dan then get back to you. Thanks again for checking you hoard!

Letters "DAT" were touched up. It works OK on the silver door trim.

Excellent. PM me with your phone number and I'll ring you!

Thanks a million Dan! I took a closer look at Enrique's photo and it does show the lead from the body harness as you describe. I guess since it grounds the dome light in that same body harness, it now seems sensible.

Here is the left side. It is easy to find the leads to the door switch and step lights:

Is the green wire below the elusive #26 lead for the right door switch? I noticed that the leads to the Flasher #27 and #28 are different. Specifically#28 is supposed to be black with white stripe but I have a blue with white stripe. Seems like a B vs. L typo maybe?

Thanks Enrique. Do you have any further detail on the lead from the harness? I only have one black wire in that area and I think it is #32 (Alternator E Lead) due to its larger gauge. Here is a photo I took. (btw I can easily find he left side wires and step light wires (tied back)).

Sorry to hear that Greg. Are there any rules preventing you from adding new parts? For the stock system, you could try routing the left and right side vents' outlets into the defrost ducts under the dash. This will keep the air temperature humidity the same on both sides of the glass and minimize condensation. You could improve this by routing coolant hoses through the inner fender passages via metal pipes to warm the air passing through them like a radiator... a valve could control when you need the heat. The best air for defrosting is re-heated dry from an AC system and heater system so you need a cooler in front of a heater. Here is a $7 toaster solution for heating: http://www.amphibike.org/index.cgi?page=pages/3_wheels/mr2/ev_electronics/heater For AC and heat Maybe using a peltier cooler like the EV guys can do the cooling and heating... and the key data point for you is: 754W is 1 HP. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/re-evdl-peltier-devices-and-cooling-14508.html

exactly duffman.... "Answer the question" is one of the golden rules. I actually have both pages but they are missing key data. (as well where is #3 and #26?) I have many more questions but I thought I would start with an easy one If anyone knows how the right door switch attaches to a harness it would be most welcome. With respect to the above drawing, does 34 (blue) connect to 55 (red) so that power gets routed to the blower?

Where in the harness for a 240z 01 71 does the passenger door switch single lead connect?

Thanks Arne, I just sent a PM.

Looking to buy the following wee parts to finish off a Jan 71 240z resto: center valence panel "chin" Why? Because the paint shop smashed it when towing the car on its dolly then they tried to fix with bondo. passenger door window scissor assembly Why? Because the lower wheel is missing. wedgie striker-guide-things on doors below the latch Why? Because they crumbled. metal panel clips for door and trim. Why? Because some were missing 240z drivers door mirror Why?Because it disappeared during the resto engine vent ducts Why,because they are rotten. yellow plastic marker light.Why, because I over tightened and cracked it keys cut ? (Where can I get blanks?) red touch up 905 paint ? (Where can I get this?) emissions vacuum switch (engine compartment on frame below coil) Why, because it is missing Driver door spring (in hinge) Why, because it is missing 1/2shaft hardware (nuts washers and bolts to hub flange and nuts and washed to differential flange ) Why, because I had to cut the rotten rusty originals off. Plastic Rivets

Bagged it air tight. The jan 71 240z has the hatch vents so I decided to refresh them and make it air tight. I used vapor barrier and tyvek tape. It finished nicely right up to the hatch seals. I'll post tons of tech tips and photos over the next two weeks.

Dan they are a work of art! Did you do the plating? It really sets them off.

THANKS..will do.

71 240z dry un-cracked dash... last cleaned in 96. What should I hit it with to clean and refresh?

I just used the closed cell 8.5" X 11" foam sheets that you can buy in dollar stores.

I refreshed a clacker pump from a 240z and I vaguely recall some sort of pressure regulation inside with a spring. If you can monitor O2 when you hit high rpms, if it is lean then it is fuel delivery, if it is rich then most likely it is spark (un burned fuel). I had a 240z bog at high rpms and I thought is was fuel problem. I chased my tail checking everything and it turned out to be a spark issue.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/headporting/index.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518_small_block_cylinder_head_porting/index.html

I always thought that an extruded rail with two internal passages (send and return) with internal loop(s) would be cool to fab. This design woul have the send and returns side by side. You could also integrate an fpr in the rail

Tons of pics coming... too busy working on it. It is a long over due restoration for a friend out of love for the Z.

refreshed rear wiring harness installed and routed wiring harness installed read side markers installed power antenna installed cowl drains installed vents installed panel damping lubed wiper linkage installed coil chased bumper fittings installed fuel sender

thanks... sorry I typed right instead of left...long day.

1971 jan 240z On the rear right side marker part of the harness... I have the normal green and black...but what is the white and white w Black Stripe wires for? I can see anything on a schematic?

On the final stretch Weather seals installed Windows installed Roof, header, side bolster liners installed Door chrome installed. Door switches installed Bumpers refreshed Firewall cables /grommets installed Rear license plate installed yeahhhh tons of photos... will post after it is over