madkaw

Might try color sand and buff in a area down low. Buffer and 1500 grit can do wonders , but caution is needed. Maybe find someone that is experienced at that. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I have no done fuel as of yet- so can't help you with it. After I got my ignition set up running I haven't been studying the manual. I believe Zed is correct that you just set up the AFRs and let the ECU do the rest. There's a whole sub forum on MegaSquirt on hybridz Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Yes it is a clutch diff. It was almost silent using a RT mount without the stock front diff mount . After sandwiching the mounts I started to get some noise- nothing too bad and only at certain speeds Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Can't say mine is silent , but the Subby diff works well! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

WTF ! They are never finished - just a pause in the refinement process !! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Jamal , nice job. Didn't pay much attention to this thread at first . Then I realized it was Jamal. Bought some zx parts from you years ago for my daughters car. You did me right bro . so how many times has someone asked what year Javelin that is-

I've been checking out my sons BRZ electric unit . Very compact . Some guy on Hybridz was working on using this unit but I haven't read about any finished products . It would be another level of refinement that I would appreciate !

Is start at 25 at least - good luck. Looks like it was done right. First year 280z . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Loud like exhaust loud or ...? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Also sounds like a major vacuum leak Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Might check float levels. Pull the domes and Pistons out of the carbs . You should be looking at an empty carb body. Now counting as you go- back off the mixture nuts(richen) until you see fuel starting to cover the nozzle hole. Compare between the two carbs. They should be pretty close . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Running ST lowering springs ( 1.5") and KYB struts. Running big tires - 225/45/17's. Whole suspension is urethane . With stock sway bar I thought the ride was very manageable . Not too harsh , definitely handled well. Tires are cheap, so things could be better. I just went with bigger sway bar up front and rear bar. I don't think change was dramatic for me for handling and it does seem to make ride over bumps more harsh. I can survive a long day of driving because I have upgraded my seats with helps soften things. Dont know if I would give up my rubber hat insolators for any shock system. I do not have any experience with coil overs on ball mounts , so my perception is narrow on this .

Believe me- I've thought about it. This year has been a wash for shows. The only one I made had about 15 cars there - lame. The year has been heck tic to say the least. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Not sure I agree with your explanation Cliff There's guys running 500+ lift cams with flat tops with no issues. Everything comes at a risk with performance parts . Things do get closer to clashing, but if installed correctly you should be okay. There are methods of measuring. I actually shaved another .007 off my block so the Pistons are now .025 out of block- but I'm willing to take that risk Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Check the back of your valve cover. Take your hand and feel around on the head . Oil will run down the block and make you think it's from the trans area. Could possibly be rear main seal, but more likely valve cover issue Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I was wanting to go and realized it's the wife's 50th birthday- better not miss that one - ha. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

If you search you will find -as Zed said- that this is about right. Run what you brung as far as cam. You should be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Dennis, i tried the MSA flares and I could get the drivers front to even lay down on the fender. Thru many phone calls I found that the same shop sold to Classic Datsun and MSA. Talked to owner and he said the molds did need to be replaced, but hey, people still buy them - he didn't care one bit. the link above the flares are made to order and fit right. In the end I couldn't bring myself to cut on my car. But the flares laid perfectly against the fenders

Don't do MSA flares -poor fit from old molds. Order from RHD Japan . http://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-zg-type-wide-over-fenders-fairlady-z-s30-s31.html

How can that happen. I mean how can the Z speciality stores sell poor fitting kits- just amazing to me. Sorry for the news , but you are making fast progress . Fall is upon us and great driving weather!! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Just went thru this on the 72. Tried the Z car Depot booster . I guess I was the one that got to discover they welded on the stud bracket incorrectly. This is supposedly fixed so it should be a good NEW replacement . I sent mine to a brake booster repair shop where it was rebuilt . I had already to cosmetics so don't know what they would have done as far as that goes. Booster does work good thougj Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'd rent the free coolant pressure tester from autozone. Run the car with it on there and if pressure starts climbing - start pulling spark plugs till you find which - if any- hole is the problem . Assuming this is a HG issue Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Think Sue from 'arse monkey garage' could give a firm handshake- Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Ummm, doesn't sound normal to me Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Can I ask where you purchased any new interior items from- as in seat covers , etc... Sorry if you already mentioned this Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club