madkaw

The diff is the same exact dimensions as the one you took out- you don't need that curved bar.

Wow- what a mess! Something's not right for sure. It's a shame a supposed Z guy handed this crap off to you. Good thing these engines are tough. This far along in the game I would be inclined to take the head off and hand it to someone to be checked for war page and any coolant passage issues. I would also be checking the timing cover as suggested . Take it off and clean it up and post pics. Haven't read too much about the cover cracking , but maybe the hack that sold you the car boogered something up.

So why are you taking out the T-5? Admittley the Nissan has better ratios but you will hate the shifter after you have been using the Mustang shifter. Your project looks good and you are running MS2?

I had black vinyl that I purchased from Joanne fabrics . Anything to keep things from rattling around

Mike, I found the thread!

Zero- decking is what?

#2 definetly

I think it depends what year diff you get. I believe STI's used both clutch and TB

Well static timing is where you set it at. You don't need to set it at factory specs. The ZX dizzy works out well for high initial timing( good for triples) and not too much mechanical advance. If someone had the time and energy you could work with the vacuum advance and limit the amount it draws in. As it is, it's just too much to use on the ZX dizzy and still run full 36-38 degrees advance for best power.thats why I can't wait to have ECU controlled ignition

I guess I assumed he wouldn't be using vacuum advance with his set -up. ID shoot for 20 initial and see how it runs-NO vacuum advance

You can use that module, just hook up the top connector only. The connection at the bottom/side is a timing retard- which you don't need. The advance numbers are the same as the 1280 dizzy

Looking good man!

Not sure if I have an exact answer for that-but in MOST cases that I have seen where there is an ignition break down, it seems to be most prevelant under low rpm and heavy loads. Buick V6s would buck like the trans was going out under load , but it was weak ignition coils breaking down. Glad you found it.

As Chas said, you need to do some homework. Figure out what head you have-exactly-WHY? ...because a 73 e-88 head on dish pistoned L28 block gets you 8:1 compression-yuk a early e88/31 head with flatops gets you 10:1-yummy A late model block would be ideal, or something with flat tops, hell, even a L24 or 26 Here is a link; L6 heads; pics and descriptions - L-Series - HybridZ

Like John said, a 30$ fix which John took care of, and she bolted up fine. Not sure where these other ideas are going, John took all the thinking out of the equation:)

How many miles on it and what shape is it in ? A lot of info missing but a rust free Z is worth a lot for the reasons you stated. Carl might jump in here and give his 2 cents, he is a better market judge. I know I might pay up to 7500$ for a rust free 1 owner even if most of the mechanicals needed some love.

If you are talking all the L motors up to 83? I'd say the bottom ends( short blocks ) are good for 250k+ with proper care. Heads are a bit different. The older the model, the shorter the life. Newer heads have the better seats and guides . Then you factor in FI engines burn cleaner which is easier on the parts. Accessories are very good as long as they are OEM

Like I mentioned before - check fitment of stub axle to DS before installing on diff. Make sure the flanges mate up correctly between the DS and stub axle with no gaps. Clean, clean and a little lube so you can pull them back apart for diff install.

So your thinking those axles will just bolt to the Subby diff?

They will snap in to your Subby diff just fine! I had to tap mine in with a dead blow hammer.

Remove the bolt and yank:) Could you do a weight comparison too?

Do an Ohm check on your wires and coil for now

Low float level is a problem. I also agree with the captain that low rpm heavy loading lends to coil or electronic issue

Carl, 3.9 ratio: 2004, 2005, 2008 3.54 ratio: 2006, 2007 CLSD: 2004, 2005, 2006 Torsen LSD: 2007, 2008 I'm running the 3.90. Pretty damn quiet. Sometimes pulling into my garage, which is steep, I hear and feel a studder and I think thats the LSD, but can't swear to it.

I guess i only remember cleaning up the old ones and throwing them in the freezer! I guess they are a 'press fit', but just a tight tolerance. The only issue I had with my axles was that the ID machined on the new axle that mates to the raised circle on the DS did not match. I coudn't get the DS to fit onto the new stub axle. After measuring I found that the new axle was under machined by .003, so I had to take them to get cut. It should be a snug fit, but make sure you really clean off your old DS in this area well. I haven't read of anyone else having this issue, so it might have slipped thru QC.