madkaw

Choking it doesn't help if the float levels aren't high enough. Do an ohm test on the coil?

Coils are cheap to replace and eliminate . Make sure you have the proper impedance coil for the Pertronix . Did you check the mechanical advance on the dizzy to make sure it was operating freely? Sounds like leanness could also be a possibility .

For tuning - there's no contest, wideband .

Yep- you screwed up- it happens:)

Probably work fine. Most triples only need about 3.5psi to run. I guess the worry would be flow- if there's enough. I thought the 73 pump was a supplemental pump for the mechanical.

Don't try to improvise on the cable, find a used one or the right one. You will have a hard time making something else work

Right. You don't need to have the bright link lined up to change your sprocket adjustment. It's dumb luck if the bright link lines up when you do this. Think about it-where's the other bright link? Could be behind or ahead of that link, not necessarily on the crank. More important to be TDC compression stroke on #1. As said above, clean the link that lines up with the mark on the sprocket and use a marker to mark that link, then just spin the sprocket around to the next setting lining up with that mark.

The original brake lines on these old Datsun cars are actually made well as far as materials. I have seen a LOT worse on modern day vehicles. The cladding really helps with corrosion. I have always had best luck with using vise grips loosening brake lines and have hardly ever boogered up one that way. I have found that "popping" them loose with my hand smacking a QUALiTY pair of flat jawwed vise grips is the best solution for stuck lines. Flare wrenches are okay but can still round a flare nut. Yes these are a royal PITA to break loose, but thats one nut don't want coming loose.

Threads should not be sealing anything when it comes to brake lines. I would be more apt to cleaning mating surfaces with SS wire brush if possible. Not sure if I agree with anti- seize on brake lines.

Courtesy Nissan I think.

I'll be out of town till Tuesday and I will PM you then. Don't be afraid to remind me though. I thought I got it through Courtesy Nissan.

I have Newer Nissan sprocket off my motor , less then 10k miles that I'm not using . I went with a Nismo adjustable.

A long massage at the dyno!

Hybridz

Well if you posted this just to make us green with envy-it worked

Something I did with all my plastic lens was sanded them! Yep- wet sanded with ultra fine- start with maybe 800-1000 grit and work your way to 1500. Then buff out with a buffing compound. You would be surprised how well it works for fine scratches, overspray.

Thanks for the correction. And yes all 2+2 versions had the 240mm flywheel

1)Rx7 pump is perfect for triples, but you should probably run a regulator 2) you mean the regulator has a return? My set up dead heads at the carbs 3) depends where you put it 4) 35$

Should have went with RX7 pump- cheap and very quiet. I would go with a relay for sure. You might check out my Mikuni thread for a write up. You should have the proper power supply behind your heater control panel - green and black wire.

Pretty sure all the L's are the same except for the ET, which is 240mm.

Just keep at it, you will get it. Like I said, understanding the valve timing and ignition is the right to passage with the L motors. Even the old chilton manual should cover the distributor drive shaft position well enough. It has to be right on the 11.25 o'clock position at #1 TDC . The drive tang is offset so there is only one way it fits into the dizzy, but pay attention to this because it does have to be right.

Exciting stuff here for the Z community!! Don't understand half the poop you are talking about, but it sounds impressive. I should know more since I am in the middle of a MS3x install- With this Hell-Fire set-up and a day at the dyno, Z owners might get a new respect for their car.

So I'm stuck in a hotel in the blizzard of the midwest----so I had time to reread this thread. I'm still thinking you need to establish the clocking of the oil pump/dizzy shaft. To be off 30+ degrees and knowing that you bought the car from some idiots, I would be checking to see if things line up right. The PO could have pulled the oil pump, change HG, or any other item that caused them to get this wrong. This is more likely then the pulley slipping. It's a lot less work to check too!!!

Pics sure would help answer stuff!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/48799-l-series-engine-timeline.html