madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. It’s a bit contradictory that you have that high of vacuum numbers but 12% loss on leak down? My engine runs 10 at idle but only 3-5% leak down per cylinder . Plugs don’t look terrible, maybe still burning of residual oil?
  2. Not yet . Put everything back together and drove it and she ran good . Got back home and noticed a puddle of oil under the car after parking . I caught the oil pan seal putting the cover on and tore it. So off with the oil pan . Today I drove around and noticed the engine wasn’t building temp. I could hear the fan still turning hard when the engine was cold. Checked to find my clutch fan had gone bad. I’ve had this a long time so I can’t complain too bad - but damn it! i ordered a new clutch. Currently the engine struggles to get to 170. It has always ran right up to 180 and stayed . Temps dropped around here but I think the stuck fan is prolonging warm period to the point that it’s showing on the plugs - but there’s more. THEN I drove it some more to find my brakes were weak. Checked out my vacuum was low - why? Eventually found PCV elbow was torn around the clamp . Now troubleshooting some dirty plugs on 5&6. Thought the worst - HG- but engine leak down test, coolant pressure test, vacuum test are all good. So at least the long block is sound . Power is great, but could be better . Last time I had the mysterious miss it was my fairly new plug wires were bleeding over to each other . This seems similar , but not a dead miss, just carboned plugs . I think I knee jerk reacted to the last issue and went too cold on my plugs. I have 8’s in there now to compensate( at least I thought) for the increased CR. I am putting 7’s back in for now and maybe I’ll find my way back to 6’s yet. I’ll run the 7’s and see if that makes a difference . Good things? The new CV axles are great. My clutch MC fix transformed the shifting experience of the car . It lightened the pedal pressure by 25%.
  3. I just picked up some 1k resistors . My circuit is not set up correctly from what I read . It needs a pull up resistor and the pots adjusted before I can try mine . Waiting on a knock sensor kit before I break into the “box” to do that .
  4. Question regarding the cam sensor . Since my pigtail came as a kit I had no ID on colors and thus no idea on pin out. Have you got yours working or do you know the pin out for the 3 wires? thanks
  5. I believe Chrysler is the closet match . What was the final word on the head? Sounds like it needs to resurfaced . Some warpage and corrosion could lead to seal issues. He shouldn’t take enough to affect anything including timing chain .
  6. I thought MSA was selling an updated version. Better than the old Precision type , but not sure on this .
  7. I would drain coolant , and use a drill bit or mini file to clean hole and rough insides of hole if you can. Blow it out good and follow instructions with JB. Drilling and tapping would work , but maybe feel more comfortable not drilling . You won’t know if you drill into a completely open cavity or partial which would make tapping a little harder. There’s not much pressure there so some kind of epoxy would work. Also heat wouldn’t be bad since it’s a coolant passage . Just my thoughts
  8. Well this build is testing my endurance . Got it up and running and noticed coolant coming out the alternator bracket bolt . Tore it back down to find a failed -new- gasket . Material was thin around that particular hole and I guess it wouldn’t hold. First time for that 😡 Good news is the motor sounded nasty! My neighbors got to hear open headers for a minute - 😝
  9. Back in the hole. Worked on getting my cable throttle hooked up. Pretty stoked the way it came out , pretty much invisible! So glad to be done with the linkage . I went all the way to the pedal too. Feels silky smooth. Now I can completely shave the intake if I want .
  10. Ideally yes . It also seems odd to me and I am going to re trace my steps again tomorrow . As I said I have quite a bit shaved off the head and .005 off the block , so that would add slack. Even knowing that I still scratch my head a little. I even have the shiny links to reference and I also counted pins .
  11. About a day away from MN/47 part 2. Just finished adjusted chain guides and tensioner to take up some slack! I gained about an 1/8” or so on the chain tensioner which meant the plunger wouldn’t be hanging out as far. I probably have about .030 removed from the total distance , so the slack was real. It actually seemed more prevalent then my L24 set up where I had as much as .050 removed. This time around I’m installing my newly acquired G- Force T-5 . It has a McLeod hydraulic TOB , we will see how that works . Also bought these sweet CV axles from Datsun Garage. Very nice pieces . This might be a whole new driving experience 😎
  12. Budget in another 10$ per rod for sizing. You need to resize the rid big ends if replacing with ARP. Cutting the head face is a straight forward process. It’s not risky , anymore risky than not resizing rod bolts or installing valve guides. Head needs to be perfectly flat and a fresh finish also helps guarantee a good seal with the HG. MY 2 cents .
  13. Might want to be sure what you intend to do with the motor since he’s going to shave it. Want to raise the CR more than just a .005 cut? Now is the time . It wouldn’t cost anymore to take .020 off than .005 Not even sure what I’m looking at with those seats . So that raised portion is actually part of the seat? WTF! Head looks pretty clean other than that.
  14. So here’s what I did . I guess I slept since then and couldn’t remember , but easy to see with an empty bay. Looks like I used the original supply line as my return since I ran a new 3/8” supply. A 1/4” line would be quite a bit bigger and would probably work.
  15. It goes to the vent box in the rear quarter . You should have 3 lines running along each other under the car .
  16. You have a tank vent line for sure . It goes to the other side of the engine bay to the vent valve . It’s larger then the return line . You could use it for now and do something else to vent the tank - maybe the smaller line could be the vent line.
  17. Another option might be to reutilize the evap line as your return line. I’m saying that without rereading the whole thread, but I know you were trying not to change stock configuration. The tank vent line is bigger than the return line and should be sufficient. Then you would have to do something else as far as tank vent
  18. Buy a wideband O2 sensor and install - it will make life much easier for you
  19. Might read this thread - might help https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42960-triple-mikuni-thread/
  20. So rich you are washing the cylinder walls down and causing oil consumption? Gas mileage bad? Looks like a bit of both fuel and oil, but mostly carbon if it brushes off that easy. Have you checked your TPS setting? Might need to take a cruise somewhere and shut it off at cruise and then pull the plugs . Don’t let it idle before shutting it down. Everyone should invest the 200$ for a complete wideband set up. Takes a lot of the guess work out.
  21. I remember - vaguely- when I had a similar situation . It was something about the long jet assembly was no longer available but I had a carb with the longer ears . I believe I just redrilled the ears to the proper height to match the pivot point of the shorter jet assembly! So I just moved the holes up for the pin and adjust