madkaw

Not trying to be a smart arse , but did you unpeen the nuts? If so I would take the tire off and use some bar like mentioned above. You can run a large crow bar in between the studs so the bar turns against the floor when you try to loosen the nut. PB Blaster is good stuff too.

Carl. the paint code is faded off the sticker. Thanks for the input guys. The car should be the 903 according to the research even though it looks more like a metallic. The 115 metallic blue only had a white interior -so I guess it will be an educated guess at this point. We even took one of the flip doors in to try and match the color, but that didn't work either.

The car is definetly metallic.,though it is not a heavy metallic, It has a black interior. According to Z car site the metallic(115) only came with a white interior. So is the 903 have any metallic at all. The car was made in 8/71 so it is on the border for the color change.

I did that and it is probably the 903, but the dupont jobber couldn't find a code for that paint

By the way the urgency is because we want to paint tomorrow and need to get the paint tonight.

Hey guys, I need help to make sure I buy the right color blue for this 8/71. Please look at the pic and verify for me the color and paint code

I just used a cut-off wheel and was able to stay to the outside of the spot welds on the lip. I believe the lips are the same size on our wheels as are the larger 9.5 in. wheels. I was hoping for the flatter spoke, but like I said the pictures on the web site were not defining. I think the wheel looks like the RB, but that's okay too!

Hey SR, I bought the same wheels for my 71. I put on 235/45/17 and they rubbed a little. I actually took my rear spring out and ran the full travel and I only had to trim from the 12-3 O'cloch position about 1/4" of metal and the wheel and tire would go all the way up into the well. I also want to know if you think you truly got the RBR design? Now I see the RBR's coming out on hybridZ group buy, they look different. I was anticipating a flatter spoke, but couldn't tell by the pic that Kim had on his site. Now that I see the new RBR's coming out in the 9.5" size, I feel decieved. I must have asked Kim 3 different times if these wheels were the RBR design. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Okay guys , I'm figuring it out now. "If the automatic car is a '71 (through 8/71 or so), you need a manual console from a '70 or '71 car." My car is a 9/71 which seems to be a transitional month. I believe that my car ,the attachment points on the tunnel towards the rear of the console are the same as the early 70-71 cars. The console I have now(manual with the ashtray behind the shifter)) is probably from a later model since the mounting points back by the armrest area don't line up. So I need to find an early console if i want to use the original mounting holes. And to throw another curve ball in the mix I have installed a 82 BWt-5 which moves the shifter further forward. So from your descriptions of the shifter holes I need to stick with the manual console inorder to minimize cutting of the console. Please correct if I am wrong with my conclusion, I am easily confused:stupid:

"If I recall Will (hls30.com) has a thread he wrote that details the differences" I've been looking for that thread but haven't found it yet. Thanks for the info

Carl, I will have to take some pics when I get home. As far as I know I am replacing a 71 automatic console with a console out of a 4 speed, also a 71. I thought the there would be subtle differences ,but I thought they would bolt down to the tunnel in the same place. My original auto console had two seperate choke levers and this one I have now has a single control. I guess I could have used the auto console for the 4 speed, but I thought I needed to find the 4-speed type console. There I go thinking again. I still have a lot to learn about these cars, but it's fun to be in school:)

I thought i had read a thread once that discussed all the differences between the different years and their center consoles, but i can't seem to find it now. Can anyone help the helpless. Specifically I have a 9/71 and the console I have does't seem to line up to the screw holes. It is most likely that the car was an automatic and I am trying to put a manual console in, but I know there has to be some info on this somewhere.

Dave, because of the urgency of this thread and the importance to the Z world i pulled my steering column out so i could take good pictures of the combo switch for you. (Well maybe it was already out:) This is definetly a 9/71, hope this helps .

thanks guys! Like i said , that is the easy panel, the ones with the complex curves are going to be a challenge. Derek, the spray can glue isn't really good at this level of covering. You need a more accurate spray from an actuall gun made to shoot glue. It's only 30$ so i sprang for it. Aresol sprays to wide an erratic and causes a big mess if your not careful. I'll post as i go along here. I'm waiting on my gun and glue before I move on to bigger and badder things. I wish i was good enough to cover a dash:p This is a cool site for interior stuff http://www.yourautotrim.com/

I've been wanting to do something different as far as attacking the flimsy interior plastic in the early Z. I could buy some new and spend 500$ for a complete new plastic interior or try something different and maybe better to some. I finally finished off one panel today. Basically I just fiberglassed the back side of all my panels to strenghthen them plus repair any cracks or broken pieces. Then I plan to vinyl cover the panels. I thought the vinyl would match the rest of the interior plus provide some noise suppression and the panels would be much stronger and last my life time. I picked out the easiest panel today to cover with the vinyl(which i found a perfect match at Joanne fabrics). I learned today that i will have to getter better tools for the job. 3m is great stuff but i need a better way to spray the panel. The aresol can sprays to wide which makes for sloppy work.I also cut the material too close to the panel in several spots which i tried to show in the pic, but I think I know how to remedy that. I also odered the specific glue to spray with my gun. So far i have $ invested: 30$ vinyl 60$ glue and spray gun( that's a gallon of glue) 40$ fiberglass resin and hardener 20$ fiberglass cloth As you can see i don't have a lot of money in it, but I didn't do this just to save money, I did this for the look also. I am not using the original vinyl, i will be carpeting everything else in the car. So there shouldn't be vinyl overload.I actually enjoy this kind of work too. Of course, once i get to doing the more complicated panels i might not like it as much

I PM'd you about the clutch pedal. I might also be able help you with your list of parts wanted My e-mail sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

Thanks for the pic. Now I remember what it looks like. I would still have one if i hadn't sold it-what a dumb arse

Okay, the clutch pedal itself is different. It has to mover quite a bit to line up with the clutch MC and I don't see how that's going to work since the pedal is almost all the way to one side of the pivot point now, unless there is a something that sticks out on the side of the pedal arm-if you know what i am trying to say.

Okay, so a member sells me the correct year box that will line up with the fire wall correctly. I mount the pedals in, which are from the 73 box ,and I come up with this-see pics. the clutch pedal is not lining up with the MC. So what now- I should have gotten a complete box? Did i put it together wrong? I'm having a difficult time seeing how the offset works between the pedal and the MC--help please!!!!

I was sitting here kicking myself for selling the wrong box, but wondering why there is even a difference from 72 and 73 when it hit me:stupid: The 73 would have had a bigger brake booster so they had to space the clutch master cylinder further away. I wish i thought this out earlier.

Well I think I screwed up. I sold my pedal box getting it confused with another I had. they looked identical until I tried putting mine in today and the holes didn't line up. My car is 9/71 and the box is a late 73. They are NOT the same. The spacing in the bolts between the clutch and Booster is different. Hopefully this thread will help someone else and help me find another one.

Someone please verify for me something else I notice on this panel. I was looking at the center of the panel at the oval shaped stamping-mine is way off center--is this correct? I would look at my car bot I have shaved everything off of mine so I have no example.

Thanks for the replys guys. The guy swears his cover said it was also for the 240. Maybe the scenerio hls30 is talking about. I guess worse scenerio I can actually take my dash with me to look at the cover. It sounds like the difference should be very apparent between the 240 and 260/280 dash. If I get lucky maybe his was a very early 260! He only wants 40$ for the cover, I hope it works!!

I found a deal on a complete dash cover for a 260z, but I have a 240. I thought the dashes were the same . Is the shape different or what? Is it possible to use the cover for the 260 on a 240? I appreciate your help.

Yes i agree ,and I have recieved some satisfaction from MSA when in this situation. The first header I recieved from them was not a good fit and the flange was not perfected and they did replace it with a better one at no cost to me(shipping was covered).I did e-mail them: Hello, I am working on a 71 240z owned by Jim Derk. Jim has ordered most of his parts from your business. Recently he has ordered repair panels for his car including the rear rocker replacements and the rear valence panel. I must say I am disappointed in the quality of these parts. The Tabco rockers did not go on evenly on both sides as if the panel was stamped wrong or cut uneven. The rear valence panel should have been sold as an unfinished panel since the panel was not contoured for the car. The panel was almost completely flat while the stock panel has compound curves. I thought to myself, surely MSA knows what they are doing and maybe the panel isn’t as curvy as I think, so I have tried to install it. I am not having much luck since it wants to bow out all over the place. I was hesitant to have Jim pay 250$ for a piece of stamped steel but his car had to have one. Since MSA has been in this business for many years you would think your R&D department would do a better job! Did anyone try and fit one of these panels on a car or did you just hold it up against the car and said—O.K. Though I thought the panel was overpriced slightly, I wouldn’t have bitched one bit if it had fit like it should have. I talked to another Z owner and he said he had the same problem and he is going to get an English Wheel to fix the panel. The panel should have hit the English Wheel before it was ever sold, especially for 250$ I will reluctant to order anything else from MSA at this point. I will try to go directly to Nissan. I imagine your prices are far off factory pricing now. The price is not the real issue any way, it’s the quality of the parts. I will be giving my customer Jim Derk a call to see how we will handle this problem. Steve Finnerty 317-979-9929 I have yet to recieve a response of any kind. I believe my assesment was fair-don't you think. I really meant the part about the price being secondary. The time and aggravation I could save by having this panel fit is worth much more then the initial price.