240ZX

SU's are certainly THE carburator to learn about tuning a carb, as they are about as basic as they come. Once you come to understand what is taking place with the fuel/air regulation in an SU, you will likely be able to understand a more complicated carb with idle, transition, and power circuits. It's just like learning to run...you have to learn to walk first! Good luck.

It sounds to me as though your master-vac (vaccum brake booster) diaphram is shot. When the diaphram gets old and cracks, it creates a vaccum leak...especially when you apply the brakes. They can be replaced but require some special tools. This happened on my 1970 240Z and I just purchased a new one.

This is probably not what you would want but, through various racers supply stores they have tire dressings to soften up tire treads! Just a thought. I quess you could have more fun with the baby oil though!!!

Well, I did a little research and here is what I found for my birthday cars.... 1951 Datsun DB Deluxe - 860cc 20 HP 4cyl. 1951 Porsche 356SL - pretty cool! 1951 Henry J 1951 MG MGTD MkII 1951 - The HEMI engine was introduced 1951 Hudson Hornet 1951 Cooper Formula 500 - cool race car! Also in 1951, these TV shows were introduced - Mr. Wizard, Sky King, Honeymooners, Roy Rogers 1951 - Ferdinand Porsche dies 1951 - Julius & Ethal Rosenberg are sentenced to death for selling top secret atomic info to the Russians 1951 - First national direct dial phone service 1951 - First UNIVAC computer sold to US Census Interesting year!!!!

I believe the first indicator would be that a Japanese model would be righthand drive! There are other members here that know the specifics far better than I !!!

You are correct!

Interesting info regarding the reaction between copper and gasoline! Not being a chemist, I'm clueless on that one. However, another common reason for not using copper lines for fuel is the tendency of copper to work harden from vibration...obviously resulting in a failure of the fuel line. It's funny that alot of the old school Hotrodders use copper lines on their carbs, typically the three stromberg set-up, and for sure these old rods vibrate. Interesting topic anyway.

Nice try Shirley! :stupid:

TomoHawk, there is also a spec on an N42 engine for 8.3:1, as well as the spec you posted.

I'm sorry, but at this point my resistance to an urge is unsurpressible........Gee Walley, those wire wheels look like they have four bolts behind the spokes! Gausch Beave (TomoHawk), I thought everybody knew it takes four bolts to hold a wheel on!!?

JUST STOP IT....WILL YOU!!!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but would this not create a leaner mixture because the needle would be seated deeper into the adjustable jet because of worn rubber stops? Maybe, just maybe, as the rubber bumpers wore down, the SUs were richened up to keep the idle high enough...hence causing a rich mixture at idle. Just a thought! Are the rubber stops, on both the SUs, at the same height? Are the oil levels and viscousity correct in the dash pots? Have you done the standard tune-up items and then syncronized the carbs?

Bill, you aren't running MOONSHINE in your spare time are you? If so, I hear there's a future in NASCAR racing, doing that sort of thing!!!

Your hopeless!!!! How many posts, from members, does it take for you to figure out you need help. HELLO!!!!!!!!!!!!! :stupid:

Holy crap...........even if I posted pics of the cars that came out when I was born, most people likely wouldn't recognize then. So imagine 1951 Chevys, Fords, and all the other beasts out then!!! Come to think of it, what the hell does a 1951 Chevy even look like???

Just out of curiousity, do you think that the addition of a spacer between the two caliper halfs allows the assembly to flex more under hard braking? Have you noticed any unusual (uneven) brake pad wear patterns with this spacer added?

IMO, the most economical swap is another L6 motor. Venturing beyond the L6 motor, your definitely going to spend some coin!!!

Looks to be a pretty nice find! I don't know about the BIN price! For that price the car would have to be absolutely perfect, IMO. I would think that $10,000.00 would even be a high price. As Stephen pointed out, it's a manual transmission car and the guy thinks its an automatic!!? Maybe a typo! But if not, what else has been misrepresented. It would be interseting to see close up shots of the undercarrige and the usual rust prone areas. I don't know, but it still looks to be in great shape. Anyone going to Alaska?

You know TomoHawk, you for once are correct about something! Yes, my head hurts every time I read one of your posts!!! P.S. G E T A L I F E