240ZX

Han, You are right about the adhesive on the half cap...of course that all depends upon how much the PO used during the install. For sure you will want to remove the dash, as I have never figured out why one would attempt going through this exercise without removing the dash. Anyway, the dash removel is a PITA, so when you have it out check everything in the dash for correctness and proper function. On the full dash cap, take your time to get a proper fit. Do it right the first time and be done with it.....don't get in a hurry or get frustrated. When your ready to do final attachment, and this is only after you are completely happy with the fit, use the bonding adhesive according to the directions and secure the cap firmly with duct tape, to keep it in place while the adhesive is curing.

Its interesting that you guys tend to use a lubricant on a device intended to remove material!!!? Lubricants are designed to prevent wear! Try using a solvent or a cutting type oil. You are likely getting clogging in the stones because of the lubricant......try using solvent. Just some food for thought!

Get on the internet and take a look for the THOMAS GUIDE or THOMAS DIRECTORY. It provides info on all sorts of businesses...including locations. Or maybe just try typing in ....media blasting in New Jersey! If you found this site, you will likey find a blasting outfit in NJ.

A long 1/2" breaker bar works well! As you may know, the square drive end of the breaker bar fits nicely into the drain plug. These plugs can be very tight and require some effort!

Isn't that some sort of Australian musical intrument? I don't believe he has what what it would take to learn something like that...come on! Gav, you mean you haven't realized the humor you derive from reading TomoHawk's posts? The guy also thinks he's Tom Sellack...his post sometimes make you want to eliminate him and sometimes his post are so stupid they are plain funny! Datto, is that what they call a HOT SPOT?

TomoHawk, you can bank on the fact that I am not alone in my candor about you!!!

Does TPS translate to.....TomoHawk's Perpetual Stupidity?

Sounds like your muffler bearing are shot! If you disconnect the framajammer from your BFM, it should solve the problem. Or, manybe if you turn your MUSIC up loud enough you won't notice it any more. Hey, I know! Squirt some liquid wrench all over the engine and then add a lit match......problem gone. Yah, thats the ticket!

I'll bet your excited! For sure it won't make your Z auto-rotate, but it will surely improve the whole experience of driving it. When I went from a 3.90 open diff to a 4.11 LSD, I was really surprised at the quicker accelleration and improved corner exit speed. I think your goin to like it!!! Congats on the find.

71datsunZ, I have a 1970 and all I will say is....."Its so much fun to drive, it should be considered illegal!"

Eric, PM Victor L. and see if he knows of one!

Hey Carl, how much do you think we could get if we auctioned off Tomohawk on Ebay?

Waylon, I think the Hydro-boost system is probably a good idea for trucks and bigger heavier vehicle, but at least on early Z's, without power steering, it would be a bigger chore installing a power steering pump and getting the Hydro-boost mechanism to interface with the stock Z brake pedal. Don't get me wrong....it would probably work fine, but for the hassel it would take to install it and the addition of probably 50 lbs to the front of the Z....well, I think it would be better and easier to install bigger rotors and calipers. Just my opinion! At least your being creative!

Andrew, Be advised that this modification is a good street car mod. The addition to SS flex lines and a set of good pads will improve it a bit more. However, with the addition of increased friction capability also comes the addition of heating up the non vented stock rotor much quicker. There is also the additional weight of the bigger calipers too. So, for street only applications, this modification is a cost effective upgrade. Just some food for thought!

MUSIC.............will this new avatar make you smarter or something? I doubt it! Berea? I thought you said you were from Cleveland. :stupid:

Allan, I also have a series 1 and have added the white face overlays. Re: question #2, not an issue if you are very careful with prep and installation. Re: question #1, there is no correct overlay (that I'm aware of) for the series 1 speedo. The speedometer will not start at 20mph and the high beam indicator lense will be covered over...but you can still see it through the overlay when illuminated. I said, what the heck and installed them anyway...they still look great IMO.

I've got the best idea!!!! Let Tomohawk do it.....he's the expert on this subject. Yah, who needs a spring compressor, they're for whimps....be a man and take a chance at dismembering yourself. Safety....we don't need no stinking safety!!!

Gavin, as usual your good taste is again present....JUST DO IT ! They look great!!! I've also installed the white face overlays and I think they look far better than the original black faces. Easier to read for sure. Some people may think they are not appropriate but I think they give the car a bit more of a vintage look...like alot of the early sports cars that came with the white faced Smith gauges.

If you are not suggesting that someone use it, why on earth would you even post it? Tomohawk, you will never change will you!? I don't know why I even bother responding to your nonsense! :disappoin

Tomohawk, you obviously don't understand the point here! By attempting to loosen or remove any of the built up sludge will result in problems, as noted from people with real life experiences! Liquid Wrench just wants you to buy their product. The stuff is a solvent for gawd sakes!!! :stupid:

Getting it cheap enough is one thing...but be prepared for the rust monster. From the looks of the photos there is plenty!

I suppose it might be a good idea as long as you are very familiar with geometric tolerancing and all the required symbols, directing the machinist in the correct fashion, familiar with metalurgy to select the proper materials....etc., etc. Might just be cheaper in the long run to employ a quaulified draftsman!

I second that emotion!!! :sleep:

Item #1 - Have plenty-O-money Item #2 - Turn back if you fear RUST