JLPurcell

Philadelphia, I spent a lot of time and money in your city. My son went to LaSalle University. I wire brushed the plating off for the most part. I took the rusty fasteners with the phillips bit heads and mounted them on a board and had them fine bead blasted , (just the heads), prior to wire brushing. I am going to try the above product "metal rescue" to see if this will work better than the blasting for those areas that the wire brush will not reach. The problem with that is that I do not believe that the "metal rescue" will remove the paint from down in the phillips bid area of those fastners causing me to still have some parts bead blasted. I found that wire brushing the parts leaves them somewhat polished which seems to leave you with a smoother and brighter finish when plated "out come = to input" You do not have to remove all of the plating but the vendor told me that if you don't it, for a good outcome, it adds a step to the process I had them take that extra step. JLP

In my research getting ready for my plating project companies I contacted said that Cadmium plating, due to the harmful nature and the EPA, is all but gone with the exception of the aerospace industry. The process is no longer cost effective for other applications. I am sure Carl better understands what they are talking about. One of the vendors that still does cad plating said that they mainly did fasteners for aircraft applications. jlp

Les, I am actually enjoying this process. I am getting ready to go out to the garage after this post and wire brush another batch of parts for future plating. I still have not gone through all of my boxes of parts from past parts car strips. I thought I understood how tough it was when you said you were wire brushing parts and every nut and bolt for plating but to think about how tough it is and do actually do it is like calling a pit bull spirited then being attacked by one. But as I am anal-retentive seeing the end product makes it fun. Thanks again Les for all of your hard work on my car, you are truly an artist. I will give you a call in the next few days so we can catch up. JLP

For the most part extra parts. I am now looking for another parts car. I want to take another Z apart and photo and categorize fastener / finish / location for all fasteners in the car then replate all of them to have a complete set. I believe that the lock washer were integrated into the fasteners in 72 prior to that the washers and lock washers were loose. Anyone weigh in on that? JLP

Picked up my parts today from the plater, I did not get my clear or black zinc parts ready in time to drop them off so I will have to make another trip to Muncie in the near future. I am very happy with the work. I took some pictures of the small parts which I daisy chained together prior to taking them loose. They came back in a tangled ball but the process worked out well. I had been told that the outcome of the process would be equal to the prep-work. This process was labor intense but well worth the outcome.

Picked up my parts today from the plater, I did not get my clear or black zinc parts ready in time to drop them off so I will have to make another trip to Muncie in the near future. I am very happy with the work. The company is a large production company and only does “car guys” parts as a favor. Good People! I have attached photos of the seat belt parts, where this plating project began, but I have also attached photos of the parts in total. I took some pictures of the small parts which I daisy chained together prior to taking them loose. They came back in a tangled ball but the process worked out well. I had been told that the outcome of the process would be equal to the prep-work. This process was labor intense but well worth the outcome. I believe that I will start a thread dealing with plating beginning with the prep-work in the near future if members are interested.:paranoid: I know that it has been a learning experience for me. The two pulleys are part of a set of an early Datsun Comp ¼” belt drive system.

Thanks for the information. I looked into the stainless package for my car. I forget who was offering them but when I inquired about the head size they were not spec. I should not have assumed that to be the rule. Once again that is what I like about this site it's members hold a wealth of information.

The problem with aftermarket bolts is that they do not match the original bolts in regard to the head size. Where the original bolt heads are even sized metric heads (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, etc...) most metric bolt heads are odd (11mm, 13mm, 15mm, etc...) if that matters to you. I just finished wire brushing a complete set of bolts, washers, screws etc... and took them to a plater and had them yellow zinc plated and will pick them up tomorrow and drop off parts ready for clear zinc plate. They turned out nice. I should have posted pics of the process but was in a hurry to get as many parts ready as possible. The prep work is tedious but well worth the final outcome. Not only was the wire brushing difficult but all washers and small parts had to be loosely wired in a daisy chain fashion with fine gauge wire prior to plating.

Sounds like you might have a cold start sensor problem. I am not familiar with the 280 injection system but it sounds like you are not getting fuel enrichment on cold start. This is usually caused by a problem with a sensor or if present a problem with the enrichment injector. My experience is with VW and MB injection systems. JLP

Took a drive to Muncie, IN today to drop off parts for zinc plating. It took a while to get thins ready to go due to the fact that the plating company had a minimum charge so I prepped hundreds of nuts and bolts etc... wire brush all parts then wired all small parts together with small gauge wire all very time consuming. They are now there and the company has promised a 5 day turn around. Did a little driving in Muncie to check out some places I remember from my days in college there. This is also where we lived when I purchase the Z.

I assumed that they were no longer available from Nissan. Call or email David House at Courtesy Nissan. If they are still available he will be able to get them for you. dhouse@Kag-1.net

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Front-Quarter-Seals-NOS-/321004361693?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abd59d7dd&vxp=mtr

Thanks for that flashback! JLP

Merry Christmas to all!

Received a call from the vendor who supplied the labels and he was not happy with my thread although he has not read it. I tried to explain that there is access to vast knowledge on this site and I was trying to verify the correct application for my car. I explained that in the long run someone here will be able to explain the different label content, materials and time line. That is what these discussions are for. I hope we can continue to openly and freely discuss and inquire about such things without offending or receiving such calls. I have always supported the vendors who help us bring our Z’s back to their earlier glory. jlp

No offence taken. I am just trying to verify the correct background material for the under hood labels for my car. This vendor saw pictures of my car and contacted me to tell me that the car emission label was incorrect and that I also should have a inertia label. I ordered a set from him and this is what I received. I can only remember two of the labels originally being on a chrome base material the paint code and the rear tire cover alignment arrows. The Chrome look, as Les said, makes for hard reading of fine print. I took issue the material of the labels as well as the content of the tool stowage label. The vendor stands by his labels. Now I am looking into the vast resource of knowledge this site affords. So Z senseis speak and enlighten me! Please!

Mike, That is interesting. I hope some others join in this discussion. I may owe this vendor an apology! He says that this is the original material and he got the last of the available material from the original supplier in Japan. Anyone?

I have attached some photos. The material makes it hard to get good shots but I believe you can get an idea from these.

OK, The cradles are back from media blast and powder coat and ready for the little detail of stamping R (right) & L (left) on them. The part number stamped in the metal contains an L and R on the reverse side but is covered when the boot is installed. I am guessing that the white stamp was an afterthought for production purposes. The white stamped R & L cannot be seen once installed but for restoration purposes I wanted to re-produce this detail. I first tried to cut my own stamp but was not happy with the results:ermm: so for less than twenty bucks I had a set of stamps made at a local shop. I purposefully used a slow drying white enamel to give me time to work with the stamp. I evenly rolled out the paint on a plate of glass and stamped the glass then the cradle. Overall I am happy with the results they look very close to the original stamping. Now waiting for the zinc plating of the re-tractor parts.

Mike, I know that they were on a gold background but my question: is the gold a flat gold or a reflective gold chrome? You photo seems to show a flat gold background such as currently reproduced and sold by Banzai Motorworks. I recently bought a set from another well known vendor and when I received them they were on a gold foil (reflective chrome look). When I questioned the vendor he said that for the 72 this is correct and that he was able to get the last of this material from the original manufacturer in Japan. I just don't remember that material. I do remember the color code and the tire cover alignment arrows being on a reflective silver chrome look material. I will try and post a picture today but it is hard to photograph the reflective material. JLP

Dan, I am glad that I could help with your parts needs. I wish I had thought of getting with you on my way to Williams in October. I am sure we will cross paths in the future. Yes Les did a fantastic job and I am enjoying working on the fine points. JLP

Does anyone have photos of a set of original under hood stickers for the 1972 model 240Z. The vendor I am in dispute with says that the 72's were printed on gold foil (gold chrome) material. Is this correct? I can not remember that being the case. Anyone?

Thanks for your input Dan, the labels on my car were purchased from Banzai by Les and Mike is great to deal with. I just purchased a couple of his labels and plan to purchase a complete set to put back for future use. I was just trying to give another vendor the benefit of the doubt on a couple of stickers I purchased from him. They are on a chrome silver and chrome gold background and the lettering is flaking off and the contend is incorrect on one of them. The vendor swears his are correct and will not take them back. I will deal only with Banzai Motorworks in the future.

OK, I have ordered some reproduction labels for my car and it seems that there are different opinions on the correct label content, background, etc.. :ermm:Norm Murphy after looking at photos of my car said that my under hood stickers were incorrect. I purchased a set from him along with one for inside of my right tool box lid. All three stickers are on either gold chrome or silver chrome:disappoin. I do not remember them being on this type of material. I seem to remember them being on a flat gold and flat silver background. The chrome look makes them hard to read. Which is correct? Content wise the sticker for my tool box from Norm like I said is chrome with black print and has three steps illustrated on tool placement but when I took a look at an extra tool door I have the label is on a flat silver background and has one drawing of the box with the tools properly located in it. This door is off a 4/72 production car my car is 7/72. What is correct???

Wouldn't this be considered a 72? 8/71 production