JLPurcell

I measured the total length of the tubes on my 72 and the set from the rear of the race car and they are the same. I don't believe that any conclusion can be drawn. I am assuming that the race car had the complete Datsun Competition Suspension Package. What I do know is that the springs in the picture are the ones which were on the race car in the 70's, that the car had short steering knuckles, bump steer spacer, and the aluminum concentrics on the control arms with composite bushings. I guess that the only way to know any more is to find someone with an original Datsun Competition set up and compare notes. Gnose, I hope you can help. JLP

I assume not something you would part with. Thanks for the offer. I am sure I will be needing some tech info before this project takes shape. Thanks

Just measured the rear platform height on the old rear race suspension as compared to the stock rear on my 72 and the platform is at the same height relative to the top of the tube. I have attached a picture of the old rear suspension and the Datsun Competition Springs.

Original Datsun Competition Parts List and Price List. Datsun Competition parts list page 14.pdf Price List page 22.pdf

I have a set for the 240z they we modified them for light weight race doors and ended up not using them. I am sure they could still be used as skins. JLP

Alan, thanks you for the valuable information. As I stated there is a wealth of collective information on this site. I have the original set of race strut tubes for the rear. I will measure the height of the platforms and compare to stock rears on car. Now the issue is that the rears I have are hydraulic type. I am at a crossroad in this project, I will not cut on my original tubes so I would have to have a set of tubes for all 4 corners get the correct dimensions for the placement of the platforms and have them modified. I want it period correct and thus do not want to install adjustable platforms. This is obviously not a project that will be done for Z Attack, maybe s project for next winter. Does anyone have the specifications for the original Datsun Competition Strut tubes platform location?

Front 54302-E7213 (R) 54303-E7213 (L) Rear 55302-E7213 (R) 55303-E7213 (L) I guess the real question is; Will I be able to put the springs on my stock struts with KYB inserts? The racing springs are much shorter than stock.

The top picture on the control arm. Does it hit if you put the control arm up within the travel zone? It looks like you have the control arm hanging down at about an 80' angle.

I pulled my original Datsun Competition Suspension out of my garage attic this week and plan to install it on my 72Z. It consist of springs, concentric s for the control arms and spacers for the front to correct the steering geometry. I took this off of the 70 race car years ago when we updated the suspension etc... I was looking at the Datsun Competition Parts Catalog for that period and it says that you must use struts #55302-E7213 and 55303-E7213. Dos anyone remember or know why. I currently have a new set of KYB's on the 72. Thanks in advance for the vast knowledge of this group.

What year air cleaner box are you looking for? Makes a difference. I have the late 71 / 72 / 73 available.

I don't believe that I can get hurt on these simply due to the rarity. If these are for vented my only issue will be can I find a set of vented rotors and will they fit behind my 14's. I may have found a second pair (in serious need of restoration) don't know yet. They were on an early Fairlady Race car from Japan.

I believe that this is a mid 20's car on BAT. The history could bring that up a bit, but I still don't believe that is would break the 30K mark. I just went back and took a look at the history of these on that site. This is a #2 car and the 1973 is not bringing what the 1972 and earlier cars are bringing yet. I would consider this car a great refresh not restoration, a restoration was probably not warranted but it does make a difference. Just my 2 cents and I am at times surprised. JLP

I will have to defer to Kats on this. I was told, by the seller, that these were for the solid disc. If not I will have to find a set of proper rotors. I wanted these for multiple reasons but on of the most significant reasons is the ability to run my original 14" American Racing Libre wheels with them. I hope this goal is not sabotaged if these are for the vented rotor. Kats?

Kats, mine are solid disc. Jerry

This is one of the early valve covers I have. I have not had time to clean it up, but wanted to get a picture up. These pictures are deceiving there is no pitting the aluminum is smooth just shows its age and needs some love.

I have found and acquired a pair of NOS Sumitomo MK63 4 piston calipers for my 72Z. With a new set of backing plates to modify for update, rebuild kit, and set of Ferodo pads. Although they are NOS one is missing the retainer pin, and I did not see the spring clips that go in front of the brake pad backing plate. I will need to aquire the retainer pin of have one made and I will need a set of Banjo bolts, adapters, and seals. 41128-G0310 41130-B0700 46237-A4600 I would also like to find a set of the spring clips. Any one know where I can find any of these parts??? Now about that rally clock with an oscillator.......

I was incorrect it is galvanized steel wire 19 gauge. I does not need to be galvanized most likely just what is offered at Lowes. It comes in 50' blister pack style rolls.

I will get the gauge and type of wire soon. If there is any rust present I first media blasted them. To do this I took a plastic container (the type that you buy deck screws in) drilled a hole in the top and cut out the bottom and covered with heavy screen wire. I place the parts with rust in the container and put that in my blast cabinet and clean them up placing the blast nozzle through the hole and moving it around. This does not take much effort. I then use my grinding stand with a fine wire brush on it to semi polish the surface of the part. This is not necessary but you get a clean smooth surface for plating thus better look and longevity due to clean smooth surface. I will follow up with wire size etc...You can see the wire in the pictures pre plate and post. You just do not want it tight on the part or nor do you want galvanized wire. JLP

It's all about the knowledge.This site is a wealth of information.

These are the two oil caps off of my early OHC 2400 valve covers. The earliest is off of the 00029 car and has the elephant. If you look it is different than the other elephant caps on this forum. Anyone know anything about this cap. The other cap is the early "OIL" cap.

Fingers crossed, I may have found a set. Will follow up if the deal goes through.

I am looking for the dealer number for Julian's Motors, INC. it was located in Danville, IL in the 70's. Anyone have a list including the dealer numbers from this period? Appreciate anyone's help with this. Thanks

I will post pictures once I get the walnut shells for my blast cabinet. I want to clean them up first. When I went to get it out I found that I had two of the early ones, and three of the later ones. The blast media should be here in the next day or two. JLP

Chris, you killed the excitement!

I will get you more information. It is a metal for conductibility, and of a gauge that is strong but allows you to twist each part so it hangs freely and the wire does not break although it will break in places due to it getting tangled etc... in the process. JLP