Fentin_Fury

For a compression test (if it tells you anything - other than everything is the same - not where the problem might be)the throttle(s) should be wide open - then crank till the guage does not move anymore - hot or cold - I'm not sure. Hot should give you a higher number and a better indication. Leak down tests are far more diagnostic - and should be done hot. Speedyblue - the compression test I did was on a cold engine - and that engine burns oil - she's a smoker! Q

Thanks for all the invites. I will post again with confirmed dates - and I will be in Sydney so attending a club meeting if possible would be great. No need to make us (Canadians) feel bad:cry: - I believe we know what we missed out on - just don't know why....

Just completed a c test last night - although different engine so comparison will be limited. On a '73 L24 with E88 head, cold, I found an even 170-180 across. Now the listed compression for this engine is ~8.75:1 - very similiar. 100 sounds low to me.

I will attending a convention in Hobart, Tasmania in February 2004 then hopefully spending some time meeting some collegues throughout Australia for a week or two. Just wondering if any of the Australian members of this site would have time or interest for a visit? I'd realy like to get some pictures of an RB swap into a Z! :classic:Always interested in the Zs of others.

does anyone know if there are any particular rear sway bars that won't fit a 240Z with an R200? I have heard conflicting reports - staight, bent.... thanks

Most looks good - depending on your engine. Is this a engine factory - any mods? I would suggest that the choke tubes are too small - but that depends on many factors. Q

I also have triple Ds - and experienced the same issue at first. I agree you should check the accelorator pump stroke - I found this critical in removing the bog. Remember also that idle jets are important as well - they are always dumping fuel - larger ones may be needed. Time, patience, and check your spark plugs! lean can be more than bad - but expensive. One more thing - check that you don't have an intake leak.

More for FYI than anything else JTR suggest the following: "This is what we now feel is the best readily available radiator for the V-8 Z. It is the base radiator for 1985–1992 Chevrolet vans with the 4.3 V6. It is light, inexpensive, and does an excellent job of cooling. It has the correct overall dimensions to fit in a Z car, and it has an automatic transmission cooler in the passenger's side tank. List price is about $250. Stealth Conversions sells it for about $150 (Part # DAT-120). The radiator is plastic/aluminum, and the core is 1-1/8" thick, with 17 fins per inch. The distance between tube centers is 7/16", compared to conventional copper/brass radiators, which have the tubes spaced 9/16" between centers. The complete radiator weighs less than ten pounds. The side tanks do not hold a lot of coolant, and this also saves weight. The inlet is 1-5/16" and the outlet is 1-9/16". If you are using a 1-1/2" diameter upper radiator hose, use a Goodyear hose reducer bushing, part #5898 (or equivalent), available at most auto parts stores. When used with an engine-driven fan and fan shroud, or a proper electric cooling fan, this radiator does an excellent job cooling the V-8 Z. ........ All-aluminum racing style radiators are available that will fit in the V-8 Z. The problem with the all-aluminum radiators is that they are not as durable as the Chevrolet plastic/aluminum radiators. In time, the all-aluminum racing style radiators tend to crack and leak where the aluminum side tanks are welded to the aluminum core." Another good site I found on this search was 240Z.jeromio.com/camaroradiator.html - pictures included. Note: the hose part number he quotes are Dayco part no.s. Again - thanks to everyone. The honing and porting begins........ Q

This is excellent info - thank you. I will contact MSA for a price. I did have one question which model of Griffin rad did SHOTIME use? They have many options and obviously have a good name. 2ManyZs which Chevy rad application would you be referencing - from what vehicle? thanks Again Q:classic:

that is an idea I have considered. However I am also weight conscious (spelling error) so a lighter rad would also be desirable.

I currently do not have a cooling problem - engine runs at an even temperature. However, I am concerned that my new motor will be generating considerably more heat - especialy when pushed. So I am trying to, hopefully, resolve a potential problem before I install the new engine. Quentin

Does anyone out there have experience with swapping radiators into a 240Z? I am looking for some more cooling - I now have a 3 core 240 rad. I want to go bigger than a 280 rad and was wondering if anyone has heard of other applicatons including hoses that may fit in a 240. thanks

Having looked at the unit I had suspected as much - but there is an article in the nissan performance magazine - more of an add realy. I would still like to hear others input.

Does anyone out there have experience with the Phantom Grip product for the R200? Seems to good to be true - but would be nice if it did work. If you have tried the product what type of hp/driving is the unit experienceing? (excuse spelling). Thanks

I also agree with the MSA idea - however having said that I just ordered a Cam from Schneider. It came complete with springs and lash pads - no rocker arms - but then again I've little success with aftermarket rocker arms (wiping out cam lobes). The Schneider product appears to be an excellent cam - not an obvious regrind - I wonder if they have access to billets? Check out their products athttp://www.flatlanderracing.com/schcamsdatsun.html Note - I went big - .560/300. :classic:

great! I new a "tach adapter" was necessary but not which one. thanks

I have a '72 240Z with a Crane XR3000 ignition system. Everything functions fine:classic:. I upgraded over the weekend with the addtion of a Crane HI-6TRC. Now the tach does not function:cry: . Does anyone out there have expereince with the 240Z type distributor and the Crane HI-6? the HI-6 does have a "tach output" but I do not believe this is what the 240Z tach requires. Any suggestions appreciated.