Jayru

Hi guys, Is it nessary to upgrade to the 280zx MC when upgrading to the toyota brakes? Can i just use my stock 72 MC/booster. What are the downsides of this? Thanks, Jay

So i just walk un and say i'd like a solid state regulator? Is their a year/type of car it comes from? The parts stores near me are run by a bunch of kids that don't know squat. So i'd like to know what to say for sure. Thanks, Jay

Sorry to resurect an old thread, but where do you guys find the solid state reg? Is it plug n play? I have a new ER alt on the car and am having the same problem as above. I don't care if it's not a factory look so i'd like to replace the VR with a solid state one. Thanks, Jay

So if you have a 72 you should be running leaded fuel? How can we do that?

I did a tun of searching on Hybridz last night. It seems the rear will work in a Z, but you need the stub axels out of a R160 510 rear to make it work (the length/spline is slightly off with the R180 axels). The diff plate the driveshaft ataches to also needs to be swaped to the R180 one (must be done by a rear shop because of the new crush collar needed/correct torq specs for the pinion pre-load, ect). There is wide debate how strong it is though. Some say they have used it for 2+ years autocrossing with great results, others say they blew it up in a matter of months. So there's no clear consensus about it. I think i'm just going to save for the R200. There is wide speculation on those as well (which years are better/work, what peices you need for the swap, ect). It's very confusing.

Any new info on this? There's a guy selling one who says the WRX wagon 160 dif is a 410 LSD direct drop in. No fabricating required, uses factory axels/driveshaft ect. I haven't seen/heard this anywhere else, so i want to make shure before i pick it up. Thanks, Jay

Is that the same? It looks so square and lame on the MSA site. Maybe it's just the bad angle/B & W picture. I want to make sure before i throw money down on it, anyone have pic's of the MSA unit installed on there car? Edit: Yea, it's definatly it, i compared the two side by side and it looks the same. Thanks a bunch guys.

It's in someone's gallery. Is it giving you that fatal error thing? It does that to me everytime i go in the gallery. Click on the link 2-3 times and it should let you in.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6114&sort=1&cat=all&page=1 I can't find one that looks like that at MSA or the other vendors. Thanks for the help, Jay

I'm not trying to ignore the problem. I know the rust is an issue/problem. I don't believe however that it is the cause of my current problem. I put a clean can of gas with a new hose/filter DIRECTLY into the fuel pump inlet, and i still had the problem. So how is it rust then?

Yes, but the other threads i searched through said nothing about sputtering at 3500rpm. It still does it with a fesh gas can and new line (tried it tonight) so i don't think the tank is the problem. I'll be checking ignition next i guess.

Ok, so my car definatly doesn't have one then (72). Yea, i removed those filters when you mentioned that in my fuel pump thread. They weren't clogged, but i yanked them anyway. Thanks

This is so strange, I already did what you suggest about the gas can when i was diagnosing the no start problem after i put the new pump on. I didn't drive/rev it but it ran and the filter was still only barely full. I'll try it again after i check for the electric pump. Can't get under the car until tomorrow though, i'll keep you posted. Thanks, Jay

Interesting. What determined which cars got the pump? I have a 72 240 with the original round top SU's. I'll have to crall under there tomorrow and see if it's there. Although i don't hear anything kick on or run while the car is on. The fuel does barely fill up the bottom of the filter though. If you spin it sideways, it just trickles in. I would think the suction from the pump would fill the filter with fuel almost completely. So maybe i do have a blockage somewhere?

Thanks. The Fuel pump and filter have been replaced along with the 2 screen's removed. This was to correct a non starting issue. Aside from the rusty tank, i don't know if fuel would still be the problem then? Edit: I notice you say filters (plural) is there another one besides in the engine compartment? Could it be ignition? I still have the single points dist. But the points/condensor are farely new. How could i check the ignition under load to see if that's the problem. Like i said, it idles and revs great up to 3500 then it hits a brick wall. Thanks, Jay

Like the title states, she won't rev past 3500rpm. Idles like a dream and makes great power up to 3500, but after that she breaks up real bad and won't accelerate anymore. The car doesn't blow out any black smoke, indicating a rich cond. Any idea's guys? Also, There's rust peices in the new fuel filter. Should i just keep changing filters/re-filling the gas and see if they go away/clean themselves out? Or do i need to boil the tank? Thanks for any help, Jay

Thanks to all who lent a helping hand. I heard/drove the Z for the first time tonight. I pulled those filters, although not dirty, and she still didn't run. So i replaced the FP and she started right up. All i can say is wow, i loved driving the car! That little L24 shure gets that light car moving fast! But it wasn't all smiles. I have two more problems. See other thread. Thanks, Jay

Does anyone have a pic of what these filters look like? My rubber gas line looks like it goes from the rail into a banjo bolt fitting screwed into the float. Is the filter there or in the line that comes out of the float into the carb? I can't see under the carb so i don't know if their is a filter there.

Well guys, after this thread and hours of research, i've decided to get the L24 running for now (think a bad fuel pump) and just drive the car until i can save enough for a swap. It'll be a SR20DET or an RB25/26. I think i'm going to spend my money first getting the car ready to handle the power. Suspension, rear, and chassis stiffening. So look for my post's in those sections of the board.

None that i know of, i'm on the east coast, US. Can you point me in the right direction?

I'm interested as well. I'd like to hear more critical info about it. I.E. where the motor would sit (weight dist/balance), hood clearance, tranny shifter alignment (inside the old hole in the tunnel?), ect. Please let me know. I have a 72 240z. Jay

That's the one, although the compressor is gone. It doesn't appear the car ever had A/C lines in it though. Weird. I'm going to look for those filters at the carbs and change the FP today if i have time.

I'll try and take one tomorrow. It surounds the entire pump from all 3 sides, only the top of the pump is visible. It ataches to the block on the side and the t chain cover from the front. thanks for the help, Jay

We tried to mimic the pump action by hand with a spare pump, the previous owner gave me, and the new fill hose/gas can. But the car wouldn't run then either. I don't think we can possibly pump it fast enough to keep the car running, but we couldn't tell if the new pump was pushing fuel any faster than the old one. The pump doesn't look easy to change. their is some weird giant iorn bracket surrounding it with ~7 bolts holding it to the block and front cover. Otherwise i would have just changed it already. I guess i'll just remove the bracket and pump tomorrow and see what happens.

No, no, you misundersood my post. It ran for 2 minnutes because we kept spraying starter fluid in the carbs. We did this to give the new line/filter time to fill up with fuel. and it still Didn't run. I don't mean to say pressure at the filter either. I would think there'd be enough suction at the filter to fill the entire filter so you wouldn't see it trickle in. Sorry if i wasn't clear.