gnosez

I run one in my 240 race car and depending on the configuration (I run it as either a 240 or a 280) I am making 245@crank with the L24 and 325@crank with the L28 on 110 fuel. The R180 (115mm) has 4:38 gears and a Quaife. No issues to speak of.

A roll bar with a harness bar so you can install a good seat and a 5-pt seat belt. Seat should have slots for the shoulder harnesses along with bolsters for your legs and upper body. Look at Cobra, Sparco, etc. All of this is easy to install but adds to the price of the car. It might however make the difference in your folks agreeing to let you have this car. I totaled my 240 back in 2002 and the above set up keep me from the steering wheel and I was very well protected (no side to side body movement). The 280s had stronger intrusion door bars than the 240s but nothing will stop a pickup or SUV going over 40mph. You could also tell your folks that a 2+2 is more stable. Just don't tell them that is at speed. (Goggle Andy Flagg)

Go to a race track and watch how very expensive engines are started (ignition off, crank once twice, three times, ignition on, fire that puppy up). Or get an Accusump.

Okay, I've got the front grill and an R190 4:44 LSD so now all I need is everything else to build my own 432R

Very clean (I mean that in a nice way) race car. Good lines and from the look of it, it still has a lot of stock parts on it. Front and rear bumpers, hood hinges (pinned in the rear of the hood), door handles and qtr glass. I doubt the dashboard is still in it and the hatch glass likely has been replaced (strap) and just the driver's side mirror and of course that rather large rear view wink mirror.

Or perhaps he forgot where he was on the track. He jumps out and passes two cars at speed and makes no attempt to turn the car. Those front tires are straight. Live by the concrete wall, die by the concrete wall....

Notice the what appears to be, a metal front airdam, on the 38 car. It was later made in FG and Bob sold them by the hundreds. Not quite strong enough to withstand regular road use, they cracked easily.

I made a reminder note to make sure I stay behind grannyknot at the 2016 ZCON.

Cleaned up, filled and installed the 4:44 R190 in the race car today. Going to Palmer, MA the new road course called Whiskey Hill next week. The 4:38 R180 is toast. Case filled with metallic sludge from the ring and pinion.

Too bad the article missed the two most important aspects of this particular 260 2+2 that make it special. The first is the pearl paint, yes he mentioned it but failed to say that it was a factory special for just one car. And then there is the second big difference and one that could have easily been shown, the factory installed sun roof. How many of those were made?

So we can now attest to 2 of the 60 that were built have been found. One hopes the other 58 were crushed.

I tow my 240Z race car on a trailex open aluminum (850 lb) with my 2006 Ridgeline. Gets 17 mpg @ 70mph. If all goes well this Saturday I'll start down to Memphis (ZCON)the next day.

Fire bottle with at least two (2) nozzles in the engine bay and two (2) aimed at you (feet and back) plus one in a fuel cell box if you have one. A kill switch inside as well. Glad you made it out okay.

I'm there (as long as the race car is ready) Tuesday afternoon until I leave on Thursday morning. That'll be a 40 hr round trip

Since I'm going back overseas on Saturday, the 18th, I will only be at ZCON for the Opening Tuesday night and the track day on Wednesday. That is if the back up of the back up of the back up race engines doesn't bite the big one (long and expensive story). Sorry to miss you guys....

Standard sized socket works fine. Glad it was mentioned so I could verify everything before assembly this weekend. Will post some pics next week.

Sorry to burst your bubble(s) but those 10.9 grade bolts with a 17mm head have more than enough space to get a standard socket on them without any issues. I did a dry run on 4 and 5 spds (a/b versions) along with a BW 5spd Given that the tranny will be mated to the engine before it goes in I'm not sure what problem I was supposedly going to have.

https://www.belmetric.com/br10x65ylw-hex-bolt-88-yellow-zinc-p-305.html?cPath=533_540_25

Thanks to everyone for the quick and very helpful replies!! Black Gold if either Courtesy or my local store (Belmetric) doesn't have them I would gladly pay for your extra set.

Looking for the size, thread and length of the bolts used to connect the tranny to the engine. Thanks

got the L28 race motor set up on the engine dyno and tomorrow I hope to realize the fruits of my time and money. More info to follow

NASA for sure. Really easy to use but I'm not sure how it will stand up. All the 2000 and later F1 and endurance cars use it. Not expensive.

Got the dash extension in, the BSR GTU air scoop mounted and some gold insulation film installed on the header side of the engine bay and tunnel.

Still waiting on the replacement engine from Dave sorry to say. Been 4 months. Race car sitting in my garage. Will post pics of the upgrades in a few days. But have added: a new fire bottle, covered the tool box openings with a lighter cover, redid the fuel line plumbing and added a new filter, laid in some gold film heat insulation, got new rotors (had to machine spacers for the bolt holes), new race pads, painted the calipers, got the original BSR front airdam refreshed, and having a FG bumper painted chrome. Rebuilt an R180 with 4:38 gears and a Quaife, all new bearings at the corners, adjustable pedals, and a side extension of the dash to include a dual EGT, two O2 sensor gauges, a tranny oil temp and an electronic fuel pressure gauge. Plus the driver air vent fabricated for the 1975 BSR GTU car and the white shift knob from that car as well.

This is the most truthful car ad I have ever seen. Whether that was intentional is unknown.