gnosez

I have a set or two

Kick starter is a web-based funding site

So maybe a kick-starter is needed or perhaps someone has a used/new pedal laying around...and no more crocs when driving. Ever.

That looks like New Hampshire..

That would be possible or you use the T intersection of the body frame just before the rear wheel well as a jacking point. I have had my Z sitting on stands for months at a time with two on the front sway bar bushing housing and the other two at the intersection I mentioned above. A fully loaded car (engine, interior, etc.). You can order the plates and if you decide not to use them then we offer a complete refund.

So here's a picture of both the 1st and current generation of our single point jack plates. The left side front of the car has a jackstand under it to allow the header/collector to slide in (tomorrow's chore). If you look closely you can see the small 1st gen and to the right the current plate which is being held up by a magnet. Looking even closer you can see my reflection. I'm down on one knee and in a standing position you can't see the lip of the plate unless you are more than 20 or so feet away. You might also see the very small flare lip on the rear wheel arc.

Not home but a few pounds (2-3). We used to make the base plate thicker (5 lbs for both) but it was overkill. Like you I try to reduce weight whenever possible but if it's needed I stop eating as much as I normally do and exercise more. Sort of a win-win. I want to go to a Tilton or similar pedal set-up and eliminate the brake booster but the expense is more than my current budget will allow. To make up for the added weight of an electrical vacuum pump (really, really big cam) I am on a 5 lb reduction plan where those 5 can come from the car or from me. The old BSR cars had original door pulls that had maybe 3 dozen 3/16th holes drilled in them. I have not gone that far.

Once I'm back home this weekend I'll put a magnet on my floor and put a jack plate in place so you can see that the view from the side is almost invisible. You have to bend over and look for it.

Not very pretty but here is the header Z-Ya and I got with the rest of Bob Sharp Racing parts a few years back. The header studs on #1 & #6 are too big so they are hanging there just for the picture. Two 3 pipe collectors with tabs and springs funnel the flow back to the dual trumpets in the rear. It looks more like a prototype than one that was actually used. The welding in some places seems to have been done with old wire coat hangers on very thin metal using a bunch of truck batteries. I have to ask JR Mitchell if this was made at the track in an attempt to get the car back up and running. The #5 will hit the steering shaft if you haven't altered the engine mounts to move it over about 3/4-inch to the right. That helps put some weigh over to the right front tire as well

Gen1 after 12 years of wear and tear. Gen2 is what Bad Dog sells now.

I will post a picture of the 1st gen version on my Z and a picture of a 2nd gen tomorrow.

It's why I had made (and sell) single point jack plates. I can go to an autocross event and change one side at a time. The plates weld to the rocker lip and floor about mid point of the door. Of course if your rockers and/or floors are rusted jacking them with a plate is no different than jacking them from the rocker lip. I too have experienced the joy and sound of a jack going through a Z. Not pretty...

RA1s are available and in stock. I will be picking up a set later this week (Tire Rack warehouse outside of Hartford, CT so no shipping charges - $783.)

Ditto re: O2 sensor(s - I have dual exhaust). I would start with 7s for road use and go to 8s for track days. Gap can stay right at 0.035 to 0.040. You made no mention of the octane level. I'd be running 93 on the road and 100 or thereabouts on the track. I ran my 3.1L with 9s on the track and 110 in the tank. The new 3.2L (13.7:1 CR) will run on 110 plus(when available) and with BR10EGs gapped to 0.035. No in car dyno numbers yet as I need to determine which clutch/flywheel to use depending on the tranny (280ZX or Preston/Datsun). I'm expecting 280+hp@rwhs with triple Mikunis and a very aggressive cam.

Toyo RA1s - we run these as race tires for vintage events and they are great right out of the box - no shaving required. I would avoid the R888s as they are roller skates dressed up to look like tires.

My only new car was a 260 that developed rust in the rockers in under 10 months. I remember a story told at one of the Z conventions that had the Zs being loaded on the bottom level of the ships coming into Long Beach and Newark. Sea water levels were high enough to splash up and on to most of those cars. True story?

Nice fine!! I'd suggest Toyo RA1s to go with those Panasports. They come in 15 and you can order them from Tire Rack and pick them up just outside Bradley airport in Hartford which will save you the shipping costs. They are great on dry pavement and quite good in the rain. I use them for a race tire (vintage rules require a treaded tire).

So did the "Fastest 240Z" ever get the bugs worked out and earn the title?

Hmmm...low or no oil pressure and the engine temp is high? I'd be more concerned about the low oil pressure. Figure out why it's low and then look at your coolant system.

Quaife and Redline changed out after every race weekend just like John said. Normal torque for the L24 and L28 are right in the 210-270 range respectively depending on set-up (head, pistons, etc.).

I say just under 30 hrs

Let's just say I might have run an engine that was not legal which had over 350hp@crank and over 300 lbs of torque. No issues. This is a road race car so no launches like in a drag strip car. I also run a 4:44 LSD R190 which is a heavy bugger.

There;s one here in New England that does vintage races. Nice exhaust sound but not as quick as a 240 prepped car. I figure a race version with a good history might be worth a few more $$$$.