gnosez

1980 to 83 all "close ratio" and the prices have gone up about double in the last 5 years. Rebuilt kit is $150-$200 if you include shipping and a good rebuilt is another $200. In New England the price for a used tranny is $300-400. and since it's work to get the old one out and the next one in rebuilding it seems a no brainer. Of course if you can get a ZX parts car the tranny and diff are all there for you. Be sure it's not the 1979 GL (R180 version).

Actually a dry, dirt road is best as you can get a better idea of brake input from the plow marks the front and rear tires leave in the dirt. You can also mark the tires with white shoe polish (one of the only words that changes meaning when capitalized) and have someone watch to see which tire stops rotating first.

A gnose with THOSE wheels, I really like this car. More pictures please.

Dave Patton took over the business last year. He has parts in stock but he's I believe too busy to do any rebuilding right now.

Admonishment accepted. Too little time and way too much to do right now.The races would have been from 72 through 83 with the GTU 1975 Zs with 15 inch rear rims a standout. CP ran with A and B Production cars. AlI in the US or Canada. Bob saw what he considered a weakness and built his car accordingly. It didn't hurt that he had Posey, Newman and Fitzgerald driving them. Porsche was a better car, hands down, no quarrels from me. Had I had twice the amount the 260 cost I would have gotten a 911 instead.Many people didn't like the handling issues of a rear engine car but if you started out with Beetles and Corvairs, a 911 was a dream come true, just don't lift in the corners.

The BSR team approach was to enter sprint and short duration races. You got the same number of points for winning a 12 hour endurance race as say a 30-60 minute race but the car set up (structurally) was different enough that by the end of the year drivers were beat up in the firmer and more rigid Porsches which were required to run all the race venues. I suspect that a different approach in how the cars were built would have resulted in more wins for Porsche.

Summit Point Jefferson 500

We run the Arizona Z Car flywheel in the 240 race car. It's got a ton of hard miles over the last three years without a hint of problems.

My $.02 worth - rebuild the NA ZX tranny. The T5 is heavier and notchy. You'll need to get an aftermarket shift kit to make it feel smoother. I've had several ZX trannies in both my street and race 240Z with no issues unless you count operator error.

Depending on the linkage a little grease might be needed in the cups/ball connectors. Could be worse and have it stay wide open...

Or a 2.6 bored out 10 or 20 over

Nicely staged and I haven't a clue but back in the day the driver would be told not to ever load luggage that way again. Even driving with your elbow out the window was considered a no-no.

Well Done!!

Marking them also helps for the next time you're under the car....

It's not easy being green....

That's the BSR ZXTT to be exact and no it won't fit on your trailer. With the front nose off it barely fits in a car hauler with no room to walk along side due to the skirts. The door won't open enough so you need to pull yourself out without damaging the FG everything. It is the widest car I have ever seen. Real sorry to see Bob F's 510 looking like that. SVRA at VIR or Mid-Ohio? Notice the lack of black edging on the contemporary Datsun between the red/white/blue? Adding it makes all the difference.

There is an internal tube on the inside of the bottle that the brake bleeder is attached to and as you pump the brakes the bottle fills with fluid so that when the pedal is released air can't get back up the line. You then tighten the bleeder, remove the tube and move to the next brake bleeder. Simple... Chuck - I'm doing the Jefferson 500 in May. Any chance you're going?

Three words - brake bleeder bottle...works just fine with regular bleeders if you don't have speed bleeders. I never got around to installing them and I bleed the race car brakes 2-3 times a day at the track.

Has anyone measured the exact length of each side (F & R)? We replaced the lines when we switched to Wilwood MCs and made the fronts equal length. As to bleeding brakes, if you're including jacking the car up, removing the front wheels, laying a cloth under the MCs, getting the 10mm wrench, bottle of new fluid and bleeder bottle, opening the right rear first, pumping the brakes, closing the bleeder, refilling the MC and moving through the other 3 brakes, putting the front wheels back on and lowering the car, then that should take you no more than 30 minutes.

You pitch me softballs and I'll hit them over the fence every day....

Capt'n, I believed you are well seasoned by now...

I'm not aware of anyone selling the one-piece valance for 240/260/280s. FYI - The $2500 estimate for a gnose replica (one piece as opposed to a 5-piece) won't get you the headlight covers or the SS trim. Add anywhere from $500 to $2000 for them.

That "WOW" car is a clone of the BSR '75 GTU car that Bob bought and I believe the picture was taken last year at the annual CTZCC gathering in Darien, CT. I used it to make measurements of the paint scheme while Bob went up a ladder in the garage and got me the stencils for the "33" to use when I painted my Z and some left over livery from back in the day.

It is. You'll need to trim it but it works just fine and it looks good (to me anyway) as it covers the shifter all the way to the knob.

Use the ZX inner shifter boot which was made to allow for a 5th gear position. A 280 5spd will work too but I've found the ZX is less restrictive. I found this out when the shifter would pop out of 5th when I lifted using the 4-spd inner boot. Thought it was the tranny but was happy to find out it wasn't. The ZX outer, trimmed works just fine in a 240 console.