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SavannahZ

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Everything posted by SavannahZ

  1. SavannahZ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Thanks for all the advice. I am just going to look for a fender or see what a body shop will fix it for. I told the insurance rep to close the case and I'll handle it myself. I am going to see how much raising my deductible to 1,000 will change my premium. All points make sense. It is amazing how many details one must know! What are the differences between the fenders, if any, between years? Mine is a series one(12/70). ---Jonathan
  2. SavannahZ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Hello all, Came out of work tonight and saw that my car had been hit in the front driver's fender. I work down of river street here in savannah, georgia, and parking is never fun. Anyhow, there is a full size dodge ram van beside it at a really terrible angle. His fender had white paint on it, my color, and was the same level of the impact. I wrote down his info and called the police. The owner of the van comes down and says he saw a car hit it twenty minutes ago and take off. He couldn't provide any details. The police officer said he thinks the van might be the culprit, but he couldn't cite him...ect. ect. He included the guys info in the report and told him an investigator might come and look at the van. My deductible is five hundred and the damage is solely to the fender. I've never dealt with anything like this and am thinking that I should skip the insurance, if it indeed is a hit-and-run, and just find a fender to bolt on out of pocket. The damage isn't all that bad...my poor Z! :hurt: Why are people such cowards and unethical sometimes? Be responsible and own up. ---Jonathan
  3. Thanks for the advice. I swapped in another distributor and the problem still persisted. Jim - I swapped out the ignition module(?) and the problem hasn't shown itself since. Because the problem is intermittent, i'm going to have to give it time to see if it occurs again. Everyone have a great weekend! ---Jonathan
  4. You are, but they can't be physically touching. You know the male/male connectors on the coil that I'm talking about? It is the piece that is below the nut on the coil posts. Your new coil should come with them and then you'll have two left over from your old. Just use that piece and you'll be good. That's exactly why I was stumped. I thought they should be connected per the instructions. I got to thinking about it, changed it, and the car fired right up.
  5. I just did the same swap a couple months ago and the tach works fine. I can't remember the model number for the coil, but all I did was go and buy one off the shelf at pepboys. There might be one for internal ballist and one for external? I would imagine that since most cars are internal most of the new ones off the shelf would work. I think it was only $27. Make sure when you take the two wires off of the ballast to manage those correctly. I used one of the male/male connectors off the old coil to connect them. It may be common sense, but when I put them together for the first time it had me stumped b/c the car wouldn't start. Otherwise, it is straight forward. Good luck
  6. I'm thinking your right beandip. It does resemble the problems I was having before that made me switch to the new dist. The engine hasn't been wet that I'm aware...out of the ordinary at least. I wonder if it's getting too much heat since the module is facing the engine and is just protected by plastic casing? Thanks
  7. Maybe it's my module too? Will is letting me test a working VR...so we'll see. Thanks for your thoughts
  8. I did away with the points system and put in an electronic ignition out of a ZX.
  9. Hey all, My car while drive it at highway speed started hesitating while the amp meter and tach started fluctuating (It did this a couple weeks ago on the highway but didn't do it again until today). While this was intermittent, it finally caused my car to stall. It cranked right back up, ran fine, and then did it again a minute later. Being close to my house, I pulled in and let it sit while I checked connections. After about ten minutes it started right up and idled fine. I then turned on my lights and hazards and it died again. It did not want to fire immediately after that. I checked the battery and it wasn't drained at all(12.8). The alternator is recieving correct voltage and I took the alternator in and it tested ok. Also, all of the connections appear(I know) to be in good shape. What I'm wondering if this could be a symptom of the voltage regulator. I did a lot of searching and now understand the function(Ithink). It seems though that everyone else was having a draining of the battery issues...if the VR was acting up, I think it could cause this? Anyone had any similiar circumstances? I was thinking of doing the ZX upgrade anyhow and this might be the best time. It became dark while all of this was happening and am going to try to adjust and clean up the VR in the morning. I did the ZX distributor upgrade and also put in a new coil a couple months ago with no problems since. Thanks! :rambo:
  10. Cool videos! Thanks
  11. Cool, have fun this weekend...hopefully good weather to work on the Z!
  12. You thought it sounded good? To whom? I'm not telling you that your signature is shitty, just noticing what I thought was contradictory.
  13. Then why do you have them posted in your signature?
  14. SavannahZ posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I'll be there...but without my Z. If you see a guy with long hair and two large dogs with him...might just be me! Please, come over and say hi
  15. SavannahZ posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I saw a lot of the same ads. I did a google search and there were quite a few reviews. Trusting a single reviewer is one thing...but then their are so many car sites where individuals have purchased and are not going to hold any punches in their opinions. This is especially true when they are paying a couple hundred dollars. I think you just have to have a flat open spot where you can open it up. From what I have read the claims are true, except for the g-forces, if you follow the instructions. This meter would be great for testing new modifications. G tech Review #1 Review site #2
  16. Nice work! Crazy when those two bumped each other in the curve.
  17. SavannahZ posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    Must be! $80,000-$100,000--that is a deep hole
  18. No kidding, thanks Will
  19. After posting those pictures I was looking around and found another picture of a cam on this site that had only the one ring discolored as well. I think it is curious too. It was the same ring as mine, and yours...there has to be a solid reason behind it.
  20. Ed, I think your mats look great. I think I'll keep my eye out for a set like those.
  21. Those are awesome scans. Thanks for all of the input. I need to refund this poor guys money to him. I guess I should have done more research. Stephen, I think you are right about them being from a truck!!!
  22. I sold these to a gentleman on ebay. Some of you may have seen the auction. I was told by the former owner of my Z that they were a dealer option. He is good friends with the original owner and knows a lot of history on the car. I didn't like them or need them, so I sold them. I was suprised by how many people watched the auction and made off-auction bids. Now that the buyer has them, he says they are not for the Z. This could be true, I suppose. They are not as long as factory thinner mats, but they are very thick rubber and could not make those bends. I have seen aftermarket rubber mats for the Z that are the same size and shape. I hope they aren't from a truck! :eek: I want to do the right thing and refund this guys money...but not if they really are from a Z. Here is the auction, with pictures...thanks! ebay mat auction
  23. It did sit for quite awhile without extensive use. It is just surface rust. The engine was rebuilt by a company called ATK by the previous owner. Supposedly the engine only has 15,000 miles on the rebuild. I got it about four months ago.
  24. Hello all, I took off my valve cover today for the first time to see what shape everything was in. All components looked good except for one area on the cam. It looks as if it has surface rust. I took off the oiler bar and sprayed it well with carb cleaner, but it appears to be in great shape. I took it apart because I wanted to check the clearance levels. The car is running well, there just is a slight ticking at all times. Let me know if you guys think everything looks to be up to par. Thanks! Pictures of cam
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