Bambikiller240

Let's get this straight. You catch him making out with your (former)girlfriend, and you are helping him find stuff for his car?? MUST be more to this story than we have heard, or you've been drinking moonshine again, Bill

Respectfully submit to you..........If all he wants for a 280Z is $400, there is far more "wrong" with it than a cracked head. Otherwise he'd be either fixing it himself (since he owns a shop) or he'd be selling it for more money. If you really want this to be a good Z, you'll likely pour TONS of MONEY, sweat and tears down this drain. In CA $400 usually buys you a "Parts" car (and a wizz poor one at that). Before you spend money on this car, take some good close-up digital pictures of the car and post them on the site. We have a "Z Police" squad that will look them over and critique the car for you. Close-up Pics of: Front, Sides, Rear of car Frame Rails Floor Pans Battery area Lower Fenders Rear Wheel Arches Hatch area (with hatch open) All of Interior Console

Amen, Rev MikeW ! ! ! I agree.

No, I didn't say the Russel Speed Bleeder is $5. SDomeone else said the bought a different kind of bleed device for $5. As I recall, the Russell Speed Blleders come 2 to a package and you only need one for the Clutch Slave, but the other could be used in your rear brake cylinder or kept for a spare. I think they cost around $15. What they are is a replacement for the blled screw in the cylinder that has a one way check valve tha when you loosen automatically allows you to pump air out of the lines without allowing air back in. SO, you simply loosen the Speed Bleeder and pump the pedal by hand while looking to see that no more air comes out of the bleeder. When nothing but fluid comes out, you go around and tighten the bleeder and you are done. Makes it a one man job and stays with the cylinder so you can do it again next time you need to bleed for whatever reason. Check out this website for info on Speed Bleeders You can find Part Number and Where to buy (if you are interested) The one you would want is for Rear brakes of 69 to 78 Z Car (same fitting is used for clutch slave cylinder.)

Sounds like a plumbing item. Guess that is what we call a pilot bushing. Sounds like an aviation item.

Welcome to the Club In stock form the 240 thru 280Z will top out at "around" 130 - 140 mph maximum. Only "regulator" that I'm aware of is the engine's horsepower/torque, and chassis aerodynamics. You simply run out of both at about 130. As for a 5 speed, most folks get them from places like www.zbarn.com back east or www.zparts.com in Richmond,CA or from a local Pik N Pull junk yard, or they buy a parts car to get the parts. Don't know how far you've thought this out, but you'll need more than just the transmisssion to accomplish what you describe. Flywheel Transmission & Shifter Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, T/O Bearing assy Pedal box (frame under the dash that supports the clutch and brake pedals) Clutch Master Cylinder Steel Hydraulic line to Slave Cylinder Slave Cllinder maybe some other minor bits I haven't thought of

My belief is that they recommend replacing both at same time because the seals in both of the cylinders can be affected by contamination of the fluid or being the same (extended) age. I have "gotten away" with changing one or the other sometimes. Other times the one I didn't replace failed within a few months after the first cyl was replaced. It certainly would not hurt (except your wallet) to replace the master cylinder. MSA "may" IMO be just trying to make more money by such a blanket recommendation. If you do replace it, consider buying a Russell Speed Bleeder for the slave cylinder. Makes bleeding soooo much easier. It's really a personal call in my opinion whether they both "need" to be replaced at once. Fortunately, when one or the other fails, you can still drive the car enough to get home or to a shop just by matching the RPM's of the gears as you shift. (You do have to take it out of gear and shut the engine off at stops, etc. But at least you aren't stranded somewhere.

At the time the maual was printed regular gas was pretty close to 91 octane. You can pay more if you want, but it really isn't going to buy you anything except a warm and fuzzy feeling that you are "helping out" the poor oil industry which is struggling to break even on the product they sell. If everyone is telling you that they use regular and it works fine in their car, why do you not believe us? I'm curious. Yes we know all about knocking, after run and overheating. Been there, done that. We would not run our cars on fuel that caused that to ocur in our engines, would we? If you are asking for a scientific "reason" why we have no problem w/ 87 octane , I don't think you'll find one here.

With 8.3:1 compression, there should be no reason to use Premium gas. You should be fine using 87 octane. FWIW, the Factory Service Manual for my 72 240Z states 9.8:1 (or 9.6:1, I forget which) compression ratio and recommends 96 octane gas. The highest octane I can get is 91 and the engine runs fine on either 89 or 91.

The brake master cylinders should have two reservoirs. The two different master cylinders have the reserviors reversed. In other words the reservoir(and that portion of the M/C) that serves the Front brakes (larger one) is in a different place. You should have no problems so long as you bend or replace the lines so that the Larger reservoir (and that portion of the M/C) still serve the front (disc) brakes. The rear (drum) brakes do not require as much fluid to be "pushed" by the M/C to be activated.

I doubt you have anything to worry about unless the symptom of being unable to engage gears continues to repeat itself. If it does, I'd bleed the system once more and see if that resolves it before delving into clutch disc, pressure plate issues. Sometimes a bubble in the clutch hydraulic system will be stubborn and "stick" to the tubing/cylinder walls. If you haven't changed gear oil in a year or so, it wouldn't be a bad idea to change it. I don't have a 5 speed trans so I can't direct you specifically, but the drain will be on the bottom, and the fill plug will be on the (a) side.

Might make the car smoke. Don't know if it would help or hurt.

MikeW's answer is 100% correct. Also keep in mind that back in the 70's (when Z's were new)Premium Gas was 98 or 96 octane (instead of the 93,92 or 91 that passes for premium now days), and Regular grade was even lower like maybe 89 I think (I don't remember exact # as I seldom used it). I believe that they specified what was available at the time the cars were new and I doubt that 87 Octane was even available.

What replacement parts for your trans? Did I miss something? Slave cylinder is replaced, bled, it "self-adjusted" once and not again (if I read correct). Is there a malfunction somewhere? What problem remains?

Try the "Search" function.

BBQ'd Goat is very tasty!!!!!!!!

In order to remove these Plastic Rivits, you have to push the center post inward until it falls out the back of the rivit. Later, prior to install, you retrieve the posts and start to re-install them in the rivit, then insert the rivit, and then push the post in flush with the rivit head to lock everything in place. Unfortunately in the quarter rear window area you are likely to loose the center post when you push it through in order to remove the rivit.

Hi Andrew: Yes, I think you are right. I just saved the picture to my computer and magnified it and it does appear to say Sanyco. I haven't seen that name before, but the cylinder does look like the right one for 240Z. I'll have to keep and eye on the auction price. Spares are nice to have, at the right price. Thanks, Carl

Andrew: What is the name cast on the side of the MC? I couldn't read it in the picture, but it looked like it had a "S" as the first letter. The one on my car was made by Tokico (I may have spelled that wrong) and it did come with a black cap but I was able to switch my original cap to it and it fit fine.

Keith Thomas who was Crewchief for Chet Wittel's ITS Z-car which won the National Championship several years in a row posted on the IZCC mail lis that he had not been able to extract anymore horsepower with thN36 than any other intake manifold. Sorry, can't find his post on this subject. I'll keep looking for it and post if I do find it.

Good Luck. Let us know how it turns out.

Have you tried spraying a graphite spray lubricant into the lock assembly to "unstick" the works? Then use your key (spray it also) and wiggle it about. I have had luck on occasion trying this method.

Officially cheering on Andrew to provide sufficient information to build Gloveboxes! :love: