Bambikiller240

I'll go a bit further in my comments. If you expect your car to stop when you want it to stop, it is mandatory to go through the entire brake system an verify that EVERYTHING is in 100% working order. Nothing ruins a brake system like sitting unused in a field for 3 or 4 years. Moisture collects in the brake fluid Rubber rots Metal rusts It's the kiss of death. It's your life, your car, and maybe someone else's life that you'll be protecting.

:tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth

No, generally a compression test will not tell you anything in this regard. IF you had a major head gasket leak and did a compression test with the radiator cap off, you might see bubbles in the water at the top of the radiator, but this is really the wrong test to have performed. More complicated than is necessary, and not as thorough as the test described below. What you'd want to do is find a radiator or general auto repair shop that has a Cooling system pressure tester. What they do is manually pressurize the cooling system with a hand pump while the car sits there, engine off. They can leave pressure in the system for as long as they wish and observe any puddles, geysers, etc that may ocurr over a period of time. It's a very simple test and should not be expensive at all. This should find any leak anywhere in the cooling system. FWIW, head gaskets do not always fail from a water jacket to an oil galley or to a cylinder (internally). They can and do often fail from a water jacket (or oil galley) to the atmoshere (i.e. outside the engine)

:stupid: Eye failure, my apologies.

What year(s) Pintara? Any idea what a Pintara is called in the US? I wonder why the 70-73 240Z lower hose is so expensive for you guys in OZ? In the USA this hose is only $12.77 at Motorsport Auto. The 240Z lower hose is the cheapest lower Radiator hose of all Z's. The 260Z lower hose is $15.06 and the 280Z lower hose is $15.95 All in USD, of course.

Agreed, It would also help if any mods required to effect the swap be stated. RHD, LHD, year, & model of car, Part Numbers etc are all bits of useful info. i.e. just saying "a camaro radiator will work" doesn't really help much. know what I mean? Details!

Hi Brian, Sorry, I can't help with the Spacers and Wheels. Check with Ross at MM. I wasn't meanig to criticize your opinion about the Wats, it's just that they are so expensive. I like them as well but can't talk myself into spending that kind of money for wheels. As for the Rewinds, yeah, $320 a set (no tires) was an outrageous price, especially since that included UPS shipping to my door. I'll probably have mine powercoated (charcoal or ??) while retaining the polished lip) before they go on the car.

Few things in life are ideal and no one ever said that this swap or any other was "ideal". Most if not all engine swaps involve compromises of one form or another PS it isn't so hard that it isn't feasible to put the car on a scale and calulate how much weight is needed and where to put it in order to balance the weight distribution. and as for purpose, well we never even got into what was the pupose of this swap, someone seems to have "supposed" that they knew what the pupose of the swap project was, without it even being mentioned.

Good Point, Dave. A Pressure test is always a good idea. What you did was (in essance) a reverse pressure test of the cooling system via pressurizing the cylinders.

Same thing could be (and is) said about V8 swaps, but they are done successfully all the time, so that isn't a valid reason to not swap engines. Properly built, a Turbo Rotary (what Alex is installing) will do just fine in an S30, IMO. How much does an RX7 weigh? Less than 2300 lbs? Weight doesn't have to be added, I just mentioned it since you seemed concerned that the car would be too light. As for stability, an Air Dam can be (and often is) used to help "plant" the front end on OEM 240's.

This is not meant to discourage you guys but....................This idea has been tossed around several times and........... It is not as easy as it might sound. Without information as to the whole replacement process for each item mentioned, people can be mislead to think that these items are "plug and play" which is not always the case. Various years of Z car have diferent electrical connectors in places like guages, relays, blower motors, wiper motors etc. For Toyota Calipers, trimming of dust sheilds is necessary, sometimes the wheels on a person's car do not have room for the calipers to fit properly, bridge tubes need to be tweaked to use these calipers as well. What is considered a viable swap for one person is not for another person who doesn't have knowledge or skills to make the modifications that may be necessary. My opinion is that Tech Articles on SPECIFIC swaps or upgrades with SPECIFIC information to the job at hand are far more valuable than a simple list of parts that "someone" says worked for them (without data on what was required to make it work), or something that an inexperienced person thinks will work. Hate to have to put it this way, but remember, we are on the internet. There is no IQ test required to log on and spout off about anything. Experience is what separates the B.S. from the Nuggets of Gold. Just my $.02

Adding weight where you want it to be is fairly easy. We have one member here in the Bay Area of California (Alex F) who is completing just such a tranplant.

True, but contrary to my original belief and if I remember correctly (from a thread of either Kats, Alan, or Carl Beck) the Hand Throttle was not meant as a cruise control but rather a method to keep idle RPM up while warming the engine. (i.e. used in conjunction with the choke). Did a quick search for the thread, but either missed it or didn't find it. Doesn't matter much anyway

Yeah, but one could do a good bit of rust repair for the cost of a set of Wats, if you catch my drift. At current prices they are prohibitively expensive for many of us (me). While the Rewinds do not look like Wats, at 13 lbs each and $320 for a set of 4, they are a viable alternative. First things first and all that.

What is a chicken strap? Picture?

I guess that works if the thieves are deaf or only happen upon your car once while it is parked somewhere. Anyone observing you driving your car still will know that you've got stuff to steal and make their move at a convenient time/place.

Cruise control was not an option on any 240Z model year. It was not available on early 260Z's either. No idea when it became available from Nissan.

I do not believe that they are available anywhere in new condition. EBay is your best bet as Mark says, but you'll find that the sets that are in good condition are not cheap. Snipers abound! I have heard of people just re-dying their old ones if everything else is in good shape.

First two Z's had black interior w/ black straps. Current Z has White interior w/ black straps.

Bar's Leaks will get you by, temporarily. I understand your situation, now. I'm unemployed at this time as well. Money gets REAL tight. Have you pulled the hoses off the inlet pipe? maybe the metal inlet has a hole rusted through it. Or the end of one of those hoses could have a split or something. Remember the job market when it comes time to vote in Nov. :devious: Hope things get better for you.

What kind of a "Master Tech" recommends Bar's Leaks as a permanent fix? Have your radiator pressure tested and fix it's problems permanently with solder and metal.

My 240Z luggage straps were black. (currently light black from sun fade). Back in the day when I bought my first Z (a 73) the straps were a nice fairly dark black.

No worries here, Bill. Keep your chin up (but not so high that someone whacks it!)

Hi Joseph! Those two are studs as well. You are talking about the first and last exhaust manifold mounting points, right? If so, STUDS.