Bambikiller240

First, It isn't as simple as just torquing down the nut. Here is what the HAYNES manual specifies Torque the Hub Nut (castelated) to 22 ft/lb while rotating the hub in the forward direction, THEN back off the nut 60 degrees and fit the split (cotter) pin. If the holes for the split pin do not line up, further loosen the nut JUST ENOUGH to align the holes for the split pin. If you are going to do this kind of work on your car, you really need to find the time to get some manuals. They will save you lots of time (and grief).

Matt: Perhaps I should have stated my beliefs more like sblake01 did in his post. I'm not trying to discourage you at all. Just pointing out that the comments like: make some of us wonder about your expectations of what will be involved. You really have some work ahead of you. That floorboard is "gone", no if's and's or but's about it. It could be repaired, but isn't worth the time, or effort to do so. Typically the rust that you can see is the tip of the iceberg. You are quite likely to find considerably more rust under the paint, and inside the doglegs & rockers. Once again, I'm not criticizing, just pointing out something that is a very common occurance. I do wish you success, especially given your stated attitude and reason for selecting this car. You can learn a lot from doing this work.

Want to know how to attach images? DONT USE THE QUICK REPLY ! ! ! Click on the "POST REPLY" button, then enter your text. Scroll down the page to the button that says "MANAGE ATTACHMENTS",. click that and take it from there. Your question about " i need to know what size..etc etc " needs to be stated more clearly. FWIW, no one has yet criticized your choice of cars. If you have the MONEY, TIME, and SKILL to bring it back to life.........more power to you. However, from your questions it may seem to some people that you don't yet have the knowledge to really know what you have gotten yourself into (in terms of the work & expense that is going to be required to finish the project)

The mounts for the Moustache bar to the chassis did not change.

Ditto what Ed said.

Yes, the pricing is quite humorous. But, hey, after all they are in "as is" condition. :stupid:

Are you serious? (I hope not)

Yes, it's a long trip to LA on the 580 & 5. Not much to look at as you drive either. Glad you made it home OK.

I can understand that. But in a brief scan of international news websites I found stories from around the globe that seem (IMO) to confirm that these vices are international. Wherever people are found................ (Viktor Yushchecnko being poisoned with Dioxin is just one example, problems in Rwonda and Demcratic Republic of Congo is another) Notice I left out the USA and Middle East? It's not because there aren't problems in both of these places.

Shipping and tariffs will likely make it not cost effective since most of this stuff is already available in the US.

Motorsport Auto also sells the rubber for the rear bumper guards (repro)

So what do people do if their mast gets broken? Is there an alternative to buying a modern antenna?

Thatis what I was thinking, clutch issues. A Flywheel &/or Pressure Plate that has been overheated (in the past) can cause the clutch to "shudder" as you release the pedal also

Yes, but this doesn't describe the transaction this thread is about. My point was that your car is in much better condition than this one, and thus more valuable. Add the $1.5K penalty for crossing country to buy it, and it is my belief that you'd be more likely to get a buyer locally than one from the EC. JMO

Ten Charecters

Those are the BIG THREE, but I don't think you'll find that these are limited to "Americans". There is plenty of all of these things throughout the world.

Some people feel the need to be able to say "Look at me, My car is worth $$$XXXX"; others are satisfied maintaining/improving, driving and enjoying it.

Agreed. (ten charecers)

Sorry for the spelling error, teacher, what punishment do you choose for me this time?

Your own post states you want to "nip it in the bud". Can't people just discuss the event without being corrected? I thought that was what the thread was all about. As 26th-Z stated, to most of the USA, the Fairlady IS the 350Z. Because that is what Nissan calls the car that they sell here. Blame the confusion on the factory (Oh, there is that word again), since they chose to use different names in different markets.

Nope, not me. But when the teacher keeps insisting on correcting EVERYBODY at EVERY TURN, when virtually everybody understood which car was being referenced; well it diminishs the light in which that "knowledgable professor" is looked upon. People do come here for more reason than to be corrected at every turn. That being said, I seriously doubt Vicky meant any disrespect to the designers and builders of the JGTC racers. Just like when people call cetain cars FACTORY RESTORED. Ooohh, I'm in trouble now. How many times do I have to write "They are NOT Factory Restored, they are Vintage Z Cars" on the blackboard? :bandit: :lick:

Guess "the teacher" is gonna flunk somebody (again). :stupid: