Bambikiller240

:pirate: :pirate:

65) When you have #35 listed twice. 66) When #63 is almost a duplicate of #62 and doesn't make sense. PS: I don't get #57. Wasn't Bambi a deer? Thus the animal that died (Bambi's mother) was also a deer? Why would anyone be interested in the rabbit with all that fresh meat ready to dress and BBQ?

Same one that has been listed at least 6 times and seldom even draws a bid let alone sells. WAY over priced for the market.

Unlike many of our previous polls, this one piqued my interest. Good on ya!

I have one also, but am looking for a better one. The one I have has the "EYES" on the ends of the bar welded on, and I'd rather have one with "forged" ends because I hear that the welded ends are likely to break under hard use..

Hi Ron: I tried a Google search on "Saner" and didn't come up with anything. Do you by chance have any contact info or guidence for contacting them. I've never heard of them myself. Thanks, Carl I was/am really disappointed to see that GC seems to have bailed on the Z market.

Sadly, Ground Control's website no longer lists Sway bars for Z cars. They appear to have abandoned us. Anyone else carry this product?

You don't use wheel bearing grease, there are many grades of grease. A light weight grease is what I would use. Moebius oil is good for watch/clock movements, but those items are generally a more "sealed" environment where lint and dust to do not exist to a great extent.

Everything I have read indicates proper bleeding order to be the master cylinder first, then from farthest wheel cylinder to the nearest. That's also the way I have done it for 35 years without any problems. i.e. Master, RR, LR, RF, LF.

Victor: I do not remember the post you are refering to, but I would not suggest using oil to lubricate the spindle of the tach. Oil will spread out and attract dust, lint, etc which will further foul the spindle that the needle is attached to. I believe that a grease would be more appropriate, as it will stay in a concentrated area. Just my $.02

It wouldn't have been Nissan flubbing. They build the cars when they build the cars. It would have been the original DMV & or dealer that caused it to be titled in whatever year it was titled. All in all it doesn't really matter much anyway.

Really? Very unusual, but not impossible. Back in those days the domestic (USA)auto manufacturers started selling their new model year cars in Oct. Like 72's being available in Oct of 71, and those sold in OCT/NOV/DEC were titled as 1972's by the majority of states. Most all of the Dept of Motor Vehicles of various states carried that idea over to imported cars. There were a very few exceptions and that is why you will very rarely see someone saying they have a 1969 240Z. Nissan released them in the USA as 1970 models, but evidently "some" were erroneously titled as 1969 models when actually purchased in 1969. My car was built in 11/71 and CA titled it as 72. It may not have arrived until 72. Allin all it wasn't too confusing back then, but as time has apssed and the manufacturers abandoned the former system and folks like us realize that Nissan had their own agenda in terms of changing features, at different times it gets fairly muddled. That is why HS30-H, 26th-Z, and others have that "Philosophical Build Date" thread going on.

Oh, well. Let's blame it on Bill. It's his car after all!

Well, in the USA, 1972 is what it would have been titled as. Heck it would have been lucky to reach a dealer by January 72, unless it was a real early 10/71 build date

If you break out the crock pot, just remember to watch out for escaping gerbils! :stupid:

.....................and about $4000 available to spend on doing it.

Suspension Techniques has one. Any place that sells ST should be able to order it for you.

Dip in Hot Wax. Apply match.

I'm not even thinking of a proper resto on my car and I have 7 large plastic tubs of "stuff", and set of wheels, set of seats, and a E31 cylinder head in the extra bedroom. A front bumper, 2 grilles, 2 headlight extensions, and several other boxes of stuff in my living room! Oh, and 3 more plastic tubs of parts (and my tools and manuals) over at the garage I borrow to work on the car. Spare engine and trans, and at least 1-1/2 sets of larger suspension parts in the shed also.

Just realized you are in Canada. unrusted Z cars certainly may be difficult to find up there. As long as you understand that it will cost major money and major time to learn how to do it all on a full resto; AND you don't exxpect to work on it for a few weeks then be able to use it........jump on in.... with eyes wide open. BUT rule #1 is always start low and bid higher if necessary. If the car doesn't belong to the land owner where it's stored, offer $100. He may be motivated by the landowner to get it outta there and take the money. Rule #1A Don't expect to "make" any money on the car.

Cars in this condition are a major Pain in the A$$ as they need so much work to revive them, unless you buy it as a project knowing that it will take THOUSANDS of dollars and months/YEARS to make it a nice car. I would walk away and find something in better shape to start with. The less work a car needs, the better off you will be down the road. If thisis the best car you can afford, wait, save your money, and make your life easier.

Your wish is my command!