440k

Firstly: Unless you picked up all the parts for an absolute song, don't expect to get your money back on selling everything as a complete package secondy: As already mentioned, you'll maximise your returns if you sell everything individually on ebay thirdly: If you're on a money making exercise, don't bother. Despite these things becoming more popular every day, people still don't seem to pay a lot for them Fourthly: I'll give you $2k for the whole package I think that you'll find you might have to keep it, unless one of our Kuwaiti friends makes you an offer you can't refuse.

Hehe no probs. That's what exchange of ideas is about. Would be a boring place if we agreed on everything. Well, 3 core may not guarantee much, but it worked a treat in the Datto. Even rallying through the forests north of Mackay in summer had no effect on the temp gauge - as long as the airflow was kept up. You sure can't draw a parallel between stock fan and a thermo in terms of power consumption - my point was that 17hp vs 200w (my guesstimate) means that the engine driven fan is drawing 60 times the power of a thermo fan. Even with the horrendous losses of the vee belt (the same belt that drives the alternator, btw) you still have more air movement with an engine driven fan. You're right about the engine speed though. You won't have as much airflow at idle (where you need it) as you would at high RPM. You'd look a bit silly sitting at the lights at 5000RPM just to keep the engine cool. This is my first experience with rotaries, so I'm on a learning curve. I'm inclined to believe that the radiator is probably past its use by date, and am considering upgrading with a nice alloy unit. The single thermo fan sits a fair distance from the radiator, so it cetrainly isn't getting optimum cooling. I'm going to try and fit asecond unit in there, but it will mean totally rebuilding the mounts. I have many other issues to sort out before the cooling system needs a look into. If I find that it's still running hot on open high speed stuff, then I'll certainly take the plunge.

Did you bother to read past my opening comments? Obviously you didn't get as far as this: FYI, the 1600 was running a heavy duty 3 core radiator, which was fitted about 2 weeks before the Melbourne trip. As I said before, with the radiator in place, it never came close to overheating on even the harshest drives - until I spent an hour in stop - start traffic. Yes, the fan was properly fitted, in a workmanlike manner. I don't cut corners when it comes to working on cars. Funnily enough, the RX2 rally car I have just purchased also overheats on the thermo fan. No problems at speed though. Yep - those thermo fans are the best things out there.[1] I'll say it again - if you want airflow and cooling, you can't beat a good engine driven fan. Hey, even an inefficient fan drawing 17hp is going to shift a helluva lot more air than an efficient fan drawing 200W. You can't argue with the laws of fluid mechanics or thermodynamics. If you're chasing performance, then switching to a thermo fan will free up some power, with a probable drop in cooling effectiveness, depending on what size, kind and number of thermo fans you use. [1] I'm well aware that the RX2 probably has a lot more issues with the cooling system than a thermo fan. Makes a good story tho.

This is the one I looked at last year (clicky). Funny how a year ago he'd owned it for 4 years, now he's had it for 8. also, it was almost matt black when I saw it, so maybe he's polished it or re-sprayed it. In general, it looked pretty straight, but needed a lot of work to get it going. the guy didn't strike me as knowing anything about 240K's, so just beware of what he tells you. Still, considering the price of these things today, and the fact you're getting quite a few spares, it sounds like a pretty decent buy.

Lachlan, I think the parts car still has tail light wiring (unless you already grabbed it). Ditto for the front indicators. I'll check when I get home later this week. I seriously need to start stripping it, to clear room in the yard. Now I have picked up my other (very high maintenance) project, the 240K will sadly go on the back burner for a few more years.

Precisely:classic:

Brian, The tail lights are different in that the GTR inner light has the red bit around the outside, and the white bit in the middle, whereas stock 240K has the red bit in the middle and white bit on the outside. Otherwise, the lights are the same I believe. I thought Kent's 240K already had the GTR lights. Panels are different too, but this is only to accommodate the flares, and increased clearance for the wider wheels. You will have to trim the guards to fit the flares properly, so this essentially turns your guards into "GTR" guards anyway. Just make sure that they trim the inner rear panels too, as you might have clearance problems with wide wheels. It's a bit hard to explain, but when you see the inner panel, you'll understand the area that may need trimming. Doors, roof, bonnet and boot lids are same, AFAIK. There are some interior differences, but these are beyond my areas of expertise on 240K's.

Brian, I recall Lachlan had a pedal assembly (in readiness for his conversion) which he didn't end up using - don't know if he still has it. I also have a spare pedal assembly (remnants from Lachlan's parts car). If you like, I can look at how small I can make it, and chase up postage pricing for you. I believe we pilfered a couple of return springs from it, but otherwise it should be complete. I think I still have the clutch cylinders from Lachlan's conversion too, as he bought new items. I'd be buying new stuff for the price you pay these days, but if you have no joy, then I can probably help there. Let me know if you want me to follow it up I like the thought of the RB30 with RB26 head. Mmmm six throttle bodies - almost as good as a set of DCOE45's. You should end up with a strong motor, albeit heavy (the RB's are a heavy lump - even compared to the L) Peter

As I said earlier, I didn't direct my initial post at Matt, and I don't think his initial post was intended with disrespect either. His comment did reflect many people's (including mine) opinion that a V8 is not "quite right" in a 240K. I was more commenting on the attitude held by some people here and other forums that it's just plain wrong to put a V8, 4 cyl, Toyota or other "non Skyline" engine into a 240K. That kind of attitude is nothing but narrow minded. I agree that we should respect anything if it's well engineered (within reason, of course - I'd hate to see anyone ditch an S20 from a genuine KPGC110 in favour of an RB or FJ) You're right about the different mentality between Australia and USA. I spent 4 months over there last year, and it's a real eye opener (majority of my time was in the coal mining districts in West Virginia, so probably not truly indicative of Americans as a whole) Australia has always had a fairly strong attitude towards V8's It used to be the V8 boys vs the fast buzzboxes, and now it's the V8's vs the turbos. Fortunately, I'm seeing these barriers broken down, and people seem to be respecting each other's choices more. I like all cars for different reasons. My current cars / projects incluse a turbo boxer, a V8, a rotary and a family V6. Nothing like hedging your bets:D

Not trying to be contrary, I was just trying to understand what "the point of owning a Kenmeri" is, and how a conversion that was, in all likelyhood, done 10-20 years ago, would miss said point. My rant wasn't directed at you, more at the general attitude that sometimes comes across from "purists" (here and many other forums) who shun any form of deviation from the OEM's intended design. We don't have to like each other's choices, but shouldn't be too quick to criticize either. Individuality and variety are wonderful things. Again, not directed at you, and no offence intended. I still find it slightly amusing that the humble 240K is suddenly held in such high regard. I wonder if it's because of its own achievements, or because of the achievements of its younger siblings.:tapemouth

And what might that be? Thing people seem to forget is that the V8 swap thing was popular in the 80's, when we didn't have access to dozens of efficient, powerful, cheap Jap import motors. Also, at that time, the 240K was about as exciting a car as an automatic Camry is today. They certainly had very little prestige, and even less sporting prowess, so the V8 conversion gave you great Q-car value. Yes, I have a V8 in mine. No, I wouldn't do a V8 conversion today (mine was done in '89, over 15 years before I got my hands on the car) Yes, I'll develop the V8 - mainly because it's so badly done I just have to set it straight (yes, Ironic I know that I'm going to as much effort to "make it right" as it would take to do an RB swap). I also like the thought of 50 odd kg less over the front wheels (mine doesn't have one of those cast iron boat anchors, it has an all alloy boat anchor instead) Brian, the pedal boxes are slightly different, although it's only a couple of brackets for clutch pedal return spring and stopper. Have a read of Lachlan's giude for more detailed info regarding the auto to manual conversion. Lachlan ended up using his auto pedal box, as the effort of changing over the pedal box seemed far more painful than just making up a bracket for the clutch pedal stopper.

Nothing wrong with an auto, except that most owners want a bit of performance, and the old autos are pretty average in that department (and the driver enjoyment department). I think the manuals were far more common, in fact, in the good ol days, we all used to upgrade our 1600's and 180B's to a 240k 5 speed because they were plentiful and cheap. Converting a car is possible, but it's a bit more involved than just sourcing a manual box. Read Lachlan's guide to a 5 speed conversion, which we did a few months back. Nothing too difficult in there, but just need to make sure you've got everything covered.

Congratulations, mate! Is it a definite, or still "in the pipeline"? Hope all goes well. If you need somewhere to store the K, I'm sure there are plenty here who'd help you out:nervous:

Lachlan - If I were you, I'd stick to a warm L28. There's a guy in Brisbane who builds lots of hi-po L28's, and he's a darn sight cheaper than any of your big "tuning houses". This guy mainly builds for the rally / race crowd, so builds stuff that works (without the fancy stickers to go on the side of your car) Harry (the guy I bought my car from) knows this fellow, and says he makes excellent cheap horsepower. I tend to agree with many of the other sentiments. Whatever you choose, it HAS to be an L6, and HAS to have 6 throttles (whether that's by way of triple side draft carbeis, or 6 EFI is up to you). The L series is bullet proof - for a sweet driveers engine, you can't go past the crisp throttle response of a well sorted N/A Turbos are nice for the mid range rush, but you can't beat the feel of an N/A (my personal opinion) I also agree about the "bastardisation" of the 240K. Hypocritical coming from me, I know (pushrod boat anchor nestled between the front guards in my car) but that's more of a "let's see what we can achieve with wha's already there". When I want to get serious with it, I'll probably go back to the L28.

Buy it now for $3000 Looks pretty good, lots of reconditioned stuff. Considering the price these are going for, it seems a reasonable buy for a straight one with everything there.

Should have even more front bias in the wet, since there will be less weight transfer to the front (less overall grip)

That's right Kent. On the front brakes, the 1600/180B had a 3" bolt spacing (which suits Commodore calipers). The HR31, Aus spec GTS and R32 onwards Skylines, and Z32 onwards had 100mm spacing (also fits Subaru calipers). Almost all other RWD Nissans / Datsuns run the 3.5" bolt spacing, which is the same as Landcruiser / Hilux 4 piston calipers. There may be some other exceptions too, eg 1200's, 120Y, Stanza, but I have never considered using any of their parts, nor have I done a brake upgrade on them, so can't comment from experience. Also, the issue of 250mm rear discs compared to 290mm vented front / 4 spot calipers is more of a heat dissipation issue. It is possible to adjust rear bias to get the rear working harder, but they will most likely fade quicker than something as big as what you're proposing for the front. Have you considered a custom caliper bracket, and using the front 270mm C110 disc on the back? This way you can still use the MR30 or R31 rear caliper. it's something I've thought about, although haven't investigated. One thing that may be a problem I believe is the centre bore of the 270mm disc is too big for the hub, which means you might need to use a spacer ring to centre the disc. Peter.

Correct. I spoke to him again yesterday, and he's going to GTR it. Lachlan - still looking good to pick up the parts car this weekend - most likely Sunday[1]. Sasha (the guy who "was" selling the 240K) would like to come over and meet you, and admire your 240K. Would that be OK? [1] The trailer saga continues. I got the roadworthy on Friday, but now have found more brake problems, being fixed as I type. I'm rapidly running out of things to replace, so it can't take too much more to get it regoed, which I've got planned for tomorrow.

Do I smell a group buy coming up?? What are they making you - a nice, fat alloy custom jobbie?

Hahaha I love the sig, Tony. You certainly made a grand entrance here:D Is that you in the Avatar? There are a few rally 240K's around.

Yes, it was my attempt at adding some humour to this thread. :dead: I think it's funny how far OT this thread has gone. Good to see Maybe it's a good place to start talking about the progress (or lack thereof) on my 240K project:cheeky:

Who's Tony?

Err not quite. If you do that, you won't be able to switch the engine off (a trick we used to play on the less technically minded business and accounting graduates when I first moved to Mt Isa )One good way to do it is to hook up a relay which is switched from the ignition switch (insure it has power in both the "On" and "start" position - this has caused many a wasted hour of frustrating troubleshooting - allegedly:cross-eye ) and feed power directly to the coil that way.

All this talk about cam covers, I had one that said Datsun 160 OHC on my 510(or 1600 HC - it was a bit difficult to distinguish). What were these from? I always figured it would be cool to have a Datsun 1600 OHC cam cover on my Datsun 1600, but used to ponder why they left one of the 0's off:ermm:

Is that the one where you first wipe the grease off your hand onto your shirt, then after the handshake you jump around in pain, because you'd forgotten about all the skinned knuckles?