Gav240z

Been a fortunate bastard, my cardboard one is in as new condition (Thanks PO's). I have a plastic one that I kept from my 260z do you know if these fit. I originally kept it after the car was written off as I thought the original 240z cardboard style ones were no good. But seeing as I have on is excellent condition I think I'll leave it in there unless something ever happens to it. If it would fit a 240z I guess Steve could have it if he's interested I wouldn't ask much for it , but I wouldn't want the hassle of organising shipping to the US if you could sort that out and let me know I'd practically give it to you. Provided I could still find it in the garage. Let me know.:classic:

I find that adjusting them is a bit of an art and it's best to take your time, as the others say your always gonna get a bit of noise but it's better to actually be able to hear some noise than none. I haven't done them cold before but might give it a go, since one or 2 sound a bit noisy. A good oil change always makes me feel better about the noise also dunno it's just me. I notice too things about Z's after you've given them a good hard drive say 5,500 - 6000rpm. The valve train makes a little bit more noise, and the SU's need adjustment again. That's after a repedative hard drive over a 2 week period or so. Do you guys find this?:classic:

I had a 73 before this and my 72's is missing I think it happened when the dash was reco'd oh well something to fix later .

Adjusting them while there hot is the best because as you should know metal expands when it gets hot. Since the engine is usually hot when you drive it most it is ideal to adjust to that tempreture to get as close as possible. I guess it's really a matter of preference but I've always done them while hot.

are 73's the first with the glove box light?

One more Z with an original number. That's always good to hear, to me an engine swap is something you do to a car that you don't want any return value on or doesn't hold a classis status. There can be so many considerations to make when re-engineering a car. If anything I'll probably go Turbo L or maybe a rb26 but I know whatever I do must be undoable.

you can pickup a second hand engine pretty cheap there's always one or 2 advertised. Since you know how to check compression etc you should be able to get a hold of a decent one for a low amount of $$$. That way you can rebuild the engine you have in your own time and learn something new . You could always sell that engine again later. Just a thought.

some of my friends are like this . Had a friend with an ET Pulsar Turbo. He wanted to spray his door handles black tapes up the area little bit of newspaper. It's very windy he has a dusty driveway and he's spraying this black stuff on the door handles, I go arn't you worried about overspray and you should at least clean the handles first. his response F&%* it looks cleaner that's all that matters. Friend of mine insisted on spraying his front lower half of his 162 celica from the factory there black what does he do he buys $2 reject shop paint sprays the things (he at least removes it from the car). Turns out not too bad but after a month it's faded, he used the same crap on the mirrors and rear panel which were all originally black. verdict looks awfull I tell him if your gonna do it, prime it and use good paint. What does he do buys primer uses same paint, similar result. I was very skeptical of using interior spray on my 260z. Worked a treat on the vinyl not on carpet, got me real high doing it too . I see horror stories like this everyday it seems a general practice for young guys to do. But not in all cases, it's very sad to see I just feel sorry for the next owners. When I bought my 240z I looked for the most stock one I could find and I haven't looked back. Painted bumpes, chrome bits yuk not thanks. we live and learn well I think I have anyway, from now on it's professional or not at all. "75% of my PO's were knobs".

haven't read anything about the diesel cranks being made of anything different than the other L series cranks. Not to say Halz is wrong just can't confirm this. The Diesel crank allows for a bigger stroke ie the difference between l24 and l26. If you've got a L24 in your Z you'll know it's a nice revving engine mainly because of the shorter stroke. The l28 is a bit chunkier doesn't like to rev the same as the old l24 but doesn't do so bad. The diesel crank will allow for 2.9ltr capacity in an L28 block. You'd need to give the cylinders an overbore to get the l28 to 3.1ltr but it's common practice. My friends setup has (200b L20 rods) diesel crank P90 head etc.. and the thing like to rev nice sounds awesome too with the stock SU's. I would like to emulate his set up as it is cheap to do and his car is pretty fast .

http://213.107.20.247/Gallery.html for anyone else who is curious.

Yeah I know the car, there was also a 2 door 180B. They are pretty rare seen a couple around.

810 sports coupe? Never heard of one do you have a pic probably came under a different name in AUS.

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/su.html Good site explains in detail how to dial in the carbs. Also have you put richer needles in those carbs? The seats may also need to be changed but if they are Ztherapy this should have been done I guess.

Hmm not sure about Petronix ignitors I know they replace the points but does the distributor still require the little capacitor on the side? If so that could be playing games, you have ugraded coil so i'd rule that out for now. Does it play up hot or cold? Sounds to me like carbs are out of adjustment , could be a blockage, how about your fuel filter when did you last change that? They are rebuild carbs from Z therapy right? so shouldn't have vacumm leaks, check the intake manifold for split hoses or loose connections. How about your spark plugs they could have fouled up from the carbs being too rich. If they are all black give them a clean with a wire brush and rinse them in kerosine or something similar. You could also check spark leads for resistance with a multimeter but remember longer wire means more resistance what you'd be looking for is very very high resistance. Good luck.

Wish I could be there .

let me know if your willing to seperate them. Are they 1 piece 3 or 5?

Hi just covering what lance was saying, the British SU's are a little different to the Hitachi SU's. That blocked off return line is not needed Lance is correct I had a 260z with British Style SU's and these were blocked off on my car also. To my knowledge the electric fuel pump was fitted 74 onwards, my 73 240z had a mechanical one still. Funny I always thought that the mechanical one would be more reliable than an electric one, that's why I haven't bothered changing mine and it seems to keep up with the carbs alright. In a turbo situation I would recommend and electric fuel pump because more air generally requires more fuel and the stock mechanical pump can have trouble keeping up on an N/A Z engine. They recommend 5 or so PSI but in a turbo situation your best off talking to a tuner especially a carbie turbo setup. :classic: However a friend of mine was running a blow through carbie setup on his 260z and required a stronger than stock electric fuel pump. Does that help?

In my experience I've found it hard to differentiate myself and currently I have a bit of a odd noise coming from the rear left of my car not sure if it's wheel bearings, uni joints, or the differential or none of the above. For now I won't worry about it and if the diff blows up (highly unlikely) I'll replace it with a R200 LSD instead of the R180 in there now. The wheel bearings , uni joints will be done in due time anyway so I guess I'll know better then.