Gav240z

The E88 head as far as I know does not have hardened valve seats. Mine had the ZX valves installed so they come with the harder valve seats and there slightly bigger aswell giving of course more power . Alfa I used to use LRP hate the stuff too. I use premium all the time besides the lead in the fuel is bad for you and the environment and remember when those windows are down you get some fumes in the car from time to time. Admittadely my car doesn't get much but any form of fumes is bad for you. I'd say you should get them hardened. when money allows.

As far as I know Nathan it did come out in Japan however I'm not 100% sure. This is just going from memory here. Are you looking at getting one are you? You should check trading post there's a 2+2 in there at the moment with an L28(P90) , Fuel Injection , Gas Research and it is Turbo T3. The whole car is $2000 but it might be worthwhile to buy and sell my P90 here. Not sure what I'd get for the engine or if I could make $1000 back on it. That would be my aim. It's right near my place so if you want I can go take a look for either of us.:classic:

George I think you know I luv that car . I've never seen it in person but have a great deal of pictures on it and little information. Maybe u could give us all some info on it

By the way nick, I found a couple of containers of Brasso in the cupboard. My mum is a fanatic or is it Finatic when it comes to furniture resto. Anyway there was Silvo in there also for Silver polish wondering if you'd recommend using this on the chrome around the side windows and bumpers. Gav,

Ok after reading all that, I think what i'll do is try doing what nick said on a small area and see how it comes up. If it's not the desired result I'll leave it to the pro . THanks for all the input.

Thanks Alan will take that into account. I think my next expense will be a rolling dyno for a day .

well there's a few differences between even the early 240z's dashboards. check www.zhome.com for a detailed explanation. The 260z dash in my opinion is less appealing there almost the same but I prefer the 240z one just me. However you have a 260z shell so I'd suggest keeping a 260z dash in there just because of the grief it will cause you later. Besides if you install Aircon it would be much easier to keep the 260z dash. The main differences is the 240z's instrument cluster cups come out towards the occupant of the car and the 260z's sit a bit flatter. The centre instrument cluster where the radio is. Is fatter on the 260z to accomodate the aircon switches etc... The map reading light is flick down as oppose to the 240z's push in one. The later 260z's instruments had a different font less appealing again in my opinion. If your gonna use a dash in your 260z keep it 260z it will save you alot of headaches and having to explain the difference to any other Z fanatic might drive you nuts. by that I mean telling them why it's got a 240z dash and not 260z dash. Shame nobody else jumped in on this post.

Well you brought it upon yourself and I voted the same as everyone else "Sorry". For the record are you?

Well the PO of my car was running tripple Mikuni's but he sold the car to me with the Dual SU's. I've been considering webbers or Mikuni's but I have faith that the old SU's are pretty good and after all there stock :classic: . Now my engine setup is raised compression probably 10:1, ZX valves (E88) head L28 Block(F54). I've got a mild duration cam not sure exact specs. Good set of extractors and good flowing exhaust system. The car however could run alot harder I feel. I've been reading about using different needles and nozzles. Mainly off the earlier Z's. But I feel very lost with this stuff as it's new territory for me. Oh and yes it does have a habbit of pinging from time to time even of premium pump gas. think it's 98octane here. Alan would you have any recommendations regarding my current fuel set up. I would really like to keep the SU's on there does this limit me in anyway? After reading what you wrote and having another friend tell me I think a Rolling Dyno would be the best way to get it right as it were but time on those is expensive and alas my student budget might get burnt for a while afterwards. Sorry can't help with the tripple mikuni's Bruce I'll try get in touch with the PO of my old car gotta pick up the original l24 off him soon. I'll try keep in mind to ask about how he had the car setup.

BTW I'll try take some photo's of the current situation.

Ok so here's my situation without going too deep into story. I had my car reversed into by some moron a while back, no note was left but I was left with a broken bonnet. I could have got the old one repaired but I was told it's very difficult to get it right again and I really wanted the custom vents it had. See my gallery last page for those. So after speaking to my local Z guy I opted for a later style (280z) fluted bonnet. (In Aus these came on 260z's 74 onwards). It was originally green but my car was Ferrari red so he sprayed it red for me. After having it done I noticed in a few spots that there was an orange peel roughness to some parts of it. The rest would be smooth. I figured I'd just cut n' polish it out no problem. Anyway I went to my local auto supplier and was speaking to the fellow there and he said if I have an orange peel surface I should really wet sand it. So he handed me 1500 grit paper and a cutting compound and said to me to use soapy water and sand paper then go over and use the cutting compound. Now what I should have done was taken the car back to the guy who painted it. Instead I decided to give it a shot. I have been doing it and managing to get the orange peel to slowly go away mind u it's a bit of work but getting there. Now I was on the phone to the painter about other Z parts I need mainly a bumper cause 1 week after i fixed the bonnet some other moron hit the bumper and bent it. (AGAIN NO NOTE). I explained I'd started wet sanding and he said to bring it in and he'll fix it up. Now being the type who likes to do it myself and get it just right. I'd like to know what exactly are the steps I should take to get it right and to give it a mirror shine once again. My painter claims you need an oribital buffer but I don't like them as they can burn the paint and cause swirl marks. Could anyone point me in the right direction regarding how to go about gettting the paint good again and what I should watch for aswell as avoid doing.. Thanks so much. I hope I haven't put people off by writing too much.:classic: