Victor Laury

I had mine lightened by Top End Performance I chose them because thev'e done so many, I'm sure they know how much and where to remove the material. I can't really tell you if it's made a difference in my car's performance. It sure didn't hurt it's driveability.

Bill, you actually have an intersting Z car. HLS30 50735, Built in October of 1971, is one of the last 1971's produced. there was only 848 more produced to the 1972 cars. At that time, Nissan was way behind in production. Americans were paying a premium for the right to buy a car that wasn't even built yet. Because of this. Your car will have many features in common with the 1972 model year. I owned a very similar car, HLS30 48255. Mine rolled off the line 2,480 cars ahead of yours. It had some the fittings of a 1972 model year and some from 1971. For instance, the body had the pockets for retractable seat belts, but was fitted with 1971 non-retracting belts. We have had many a discussion here about these transistional models on this forum. You'll have lots of interesting things to discover as you learn about your car.

Good job on that intake manifold. Since that's a normaly rough casting, it took quite a bit of flatening work to bring that up to par! Short cut - you can "get a away" without sanding on well finished pieces, by using a sisal buff (very rough) with emery compound (very aggressive), first, before moving to the tripoli. 1st step - emery compound on sisal - hard pressure, move piece against buff rotation (cutting motion) 2nd step - Clean all the emery compound off! 3rd step - Tripoli compound on spiral buff - hard pressure, cutting motion. The work will get very hot during this step! 4th step - Clean again! It's very important not to contaminate your next step, the coloring. 5th step - white rouge on loose flannel or single stitch pillow buff medium pressure, moving piece with buff rotation (color motion) This short cut works pretty well on clean work. It will not take out pits, or deep imperfections. Nothing beats staged sanding. On semi finished cast pieces (like Dave's intake manifold) there's no short cuts (right Dave?). If you want to polish your carb domes, BE VERY CAREFULL! you must cut back on the pressure and buff time, as the heat will pull them out-of-round (not good). Always be very carefull around the edges of the piece and the buff. At 3,000 RPM, if you catch an edge on the buff, it WILL tear the work out of your hands and likely take a piece of you with it!

That does sound like a VERY reasonable price! I hope to see the car brought back from hell. Did your "before" photos help with the insurance claim?

I may get some flack for this but... I always loved the 120Y/B210 Having said that... Is this 140Z varient legit? an L-14 instead of the pushrod A-14? That "140Z" rear trim emblem looks real. I don't really doubt it, as Nissan has a long history of special, low production models.

Yea! just think...... 15,000 oil changes per mile

Recent polished projects L24, U20, R16 Valve covers, 72 l24 water outlet.

Be carefull of polishing - it's addictive. I think you end up needing a certain level of aluminum in your blood. 4 years ago I started with a cheap 1/4 hp grinder, running a 4'' spiral sewn and 4'' loose flannel buffs, a tube of tripoli, and a tube of white rouge. Now, it's 8 arbors, 2 hp motors, 10'' stacked buffs of every possible material, sanding belts, drums and 2lb bars of compounds of all sorts. No doubt, I could have paid to polish every part of every car I have ever owned with what I've spent in equipment, materials and destroyed shirts (the polish get all over them). It is a gratifing hobby though.

1/8 mile drag stip too... just hope your brakes work!

Security. Two relays, two circuts, one for the low beam, one for the high. Blow one and you still get home.

Nah.. A couple of C5-A's will do nicely

Cool! another contry covered by our Club! Just take a quick hop over the pais Vasco and you can hook up with our Francia members!

We got the Toshiba's. Referred as the "Cursive Toshiba's" for the the font use in the logo. They are a very durable light. My 70 roadster still has it's original pair. 33 years of service isn't too bad

It's good to hear it's coming along. I remmeber when you got it last January. We all had a good laugh at the guy, who would trade a Z, for your old Civic!

It's him. I just checked the past sales. No doubt. Who else sells 240Z Shockwave Active Desktop? No foul in selling your own work.

Where's Vic (Datsun76) when ya need him? someone reported this to me (Thanks) but I'm going to wait to here from the artist before I take action

I bought 1 from Ebay. Looked correct, but it had the round, pin style, late model plug. No biggie, I paid 6 bucks for it and converted it to the spade plug

or from NAPA Beck Arnley Radiator Drain **** Item#: BA 1370003 Price: $ 3.29

At Napa Mileage Plus Electrical Voltage Regulator - Transistorized Item#: MPEVR521SB Price: $ 18.49 Or, the very original looking, non-transistor Echlin Ignition Voltage Regulator Item#: ECHVR521 Price: $ 41.99 I have the Echlin on my car, and it's the same dimensions and plating as the OE

By the way... The spittin image of the original white plastic winged drain plug, with the channel cut into it for a clean draining is for sale, under $5.00 in the "Help" racks of most Auto parts stores. It's marked "Subaru". Both my Z and Roadster are wearing these plugs.