GregP

I used Just Dashes for my GTO dash and console. Still look like new 12 years later. If i recall right I paid around $600 for the dash at the time.

I am looking to paint some of the engine parts such as the water pump, head ,etc which are supposed to be left natural. I didn't want to use a clear coat since it tends to yellow with heat. I saw on another thread that VHT flat aluminum / aluminum matte was used but some thought it to dull and others used VHT cast aluminum which some thought to bright. Some combined the two spraying one over the other. Anyone find anything else that would work for the natural parts that would stand up to heat ? Anyone use any of the Eastwood products for this application? Thanks, Greg

I don't have a problem with people charging inflated prices for items because it's our choice if we want to pay it or not. He has other issues that upset me. I purchased an automatic shift handle from him that about a 2yrs ago. It was supposed to be NOS. It was not the same one that he had in the Ebay photo that he keeps using every week for over a 2 years now. It was used and had a large crack in the base. He stuffed it into a box that was way to small, so part of it stuck out which he covered with tape. I paid about 5x the actual shipping cost which wasn't listed (but again I wanted it). When I called him on it not being the one in the photo and broken he said it was perfect when he sent it and that I had to deal with the post office and that he couldn't help me and would not take it back or refund my money. The post office of course refused to do anything when they saw the ridiculous box. He lied about it being NOS & Perfect. Charged crazy shipping charges. Refused to back up his description. Continues to use false photos. I read all the negatives about him but when you want something bad enough you make foolish decisions. He still has the shifter handle on every other week with the same photo. Check out the thread thats titled "Ebay Seller" for other comments on him. After all that would I still use him? Haven't since but sometimes rational thought goes away when you need an item badley enough.

I am in the process of rebuilding my 73 240Z motor. Should I install a new oil pump at the same time? The one that was in it seemed to be working fine but since I am doing everything over and it’s such an important part I was thinking of replacing it now. The motor is being rebuilt as close as possible to stock. Should I go with an OEM pump or is there something better out there? The car will be used for cruising only. Thanks, Greg

There are lots of cheap clamps available but thats the first time i heard that one. i was thinking of going all original when i put the rebuilt motor back in along with braided hoses.

I did look at it and didn't see them. I was hoping they weren't listed yet. He has some great stuff. I'm trying to decide if i should spend the money on the hoses and original clamps.

Are the clamp sets now available?

Mine does have the whote plastic fan. Thanks for the info.

So these colors are considered correct for 70-73 240Z with no real difference from the earliest Z's?

I was searching for paint colors for the engine and engine compartment and came across a list like this but it was for an early Z and a few years old. Does this list work for a 1973 240z? Please make changes as needed or add to the list. Note: it was mentioned about a lot of overspray that left items looking blue. Block: Datsun Engine Blue Oil Pan: Black; Semi-Gloss - gloss Crank Pulley- Engine Blue Smog/ Air Pump Pulley - Engine Blue Smog/ Air Pump Casing: Natural Smog/ Air Pump Rear Plate: Semi gloss Black Bolts and fittings were all cad plated /(depending on location might be painted engine blue) Timing Cover - Natural Aluminum Water Pump: Natural Alternator Casing - Natural Aluminum Alternator fan clutch - Natural aluminum Alternator Pulley - Semi Gloss Black Alternator Fan - Gold Cad Plated Alternator adjusting arm – Engine Blue Securing nut and washer in the Alt center - gold cad Cam Cover: Natural Head: Natural Aluminum Oil Pump: Natural Distributor: Natural Air Box: Orange (My original one is blue) Fuel Rail: Cad Plated Carb Linkage: Cad Plated Bell housing cover plate or 'end plate" - Silver zinc plated Motor Mounting Brackets: Black Intake Manifold: Natural Exhaust Manifold: Natural Alternator/Smog Pump Adjusting Arms - Engine Blue Misc. Water Pipes: Cad Plated Cooling Fan: Off-White or Antique White Cooling Fan Clutch: Natural Cooling Fan Pulley: Cad Plated Thermostat housing & Water pipes/heater hose fittings - Natural Aluminum U-shaped water tube located behind engine part of the carb heating system. – Cad plated

Can you make the curved bumper fillers also? They have the metal piece inbeded in them? Or are we talking about the vertical bumper strips only? I believe I have a NOS set that I had put away for the front bumper and I have about 5 or 6 sets of the fillers ranging from poor to good cond. they are not show quality but probaly could be used for a mold. I have an older bumper on the car now and was planning on going back to original when I start my restoration.

Thank you. I will take a look when I get home.

Well I have a 73 manual but these are different carbs (not sure which year). I can do most anything else including painting the car but zero experience with carbs. Always sent them out on my other cars (American Muscle). The benifits of owning old cars is also learing how to deal with your frustration on making them work:) and having the time to work on them. There is lots of satisfaction when you fix something but today I am willing to forgo that satisfaction.

How do you tell if they are low? What would you fill it with? Sorry if the questions sound stupid. I don't know anything about the carbs.

My 73 Z recently started to sputter and stall when accelerating from a stop. Over 10 mph its fine and it idles fine just on the initial stepping of the gas from a light or stop sign. I believe it has the 71 or 72 carbs, definitely not 73's. I have had the car for 5 years and have not touched the carbs since I have no idea how to do anything with them. Do you think they need to be rebuilt (assuming it’s a carb problem)? Any recommendations? I have seen that Z therapy is mentioned in high regard but do I have to buy a new set or will they fix mine?

Les, What years is he doing the kits for? This sounds great if it works out. GregP

The previous owner replaced all the vinyl with carpeting in my 73 z. I am trying to go back to original with black vinyl diamond pattern. With no originals I don't even know what I need. Does anyone sell a complete kit? I know the shock towers and both sides under center console (trans tunnel)had it. Where else? Is there a list or diagram available? Was it just the vinyl or was there a backing that went with it (like a jute padding)? Is it just glued down? I did a search but didn't come up with anything for a complete kit. I did read that MSA? shock tower did not fit well? Thanks!

Would this be the same for a 73z automatic?

My buddy in CT saved his original battery (tires, paperwork, ads, articles and everything else). His car has 20k+ miles. I will ask him to post some photos and dimensions.

Another point to keep in mind is the stated value vs the agreed value on the collision & comprehensive portions of the policy. Most regular insurance carriers have a stated value policy where the "classic " insurance companies have an agreed value policy. Here is a quick, very simplified explanation/example; You give the your company an appraisal for $15k and they write the policy for that amount. The physical damage portion (collision & comprehensive) is rated and charged based on that. But surprise, that doesn't mean they will give you that amount. They can use a number of factors to determine what they consider the current value at the time of loss. The agreed value policy means just that. If stolen or totaled, here's your $15k, less deductible. I have sold and dealt with a large number of these companies over the past 25 years. My favorite, for a number of reasons, is Haggerty ( I have 3 of my cars with them now). Research the companies for prices and talk to the agents that represent them for specifics on how the car can be used. No one answer is correct here on the forum since each state has its own particular regulations and the companies can adapt differently state by state as well as individual personal factors. But do a search on the forum since having knowledge on the subject will help you make good decisions. Greg

Bonzi Lon, Thanks for the photos. That explained everything. I did get the correct brackets. What was confusing me was the "pipe" section where it bolts to the bumper. Your picture #2 shows it clearly. Also the previous owner had made his own brackets that bolted inside rather than outside. Greg

Anyone have a photo of the 73 240z bumper brackets that mount to the car? I picked up a pair and I am having my doubts that they are for the 73 year(based on the lack of detail with the drawing in the manual). I could also use a photo of how they are mounted to the car. Any help is appreciated.

Steve, Thanks for that info. Do you know if that included any minor repair work? I have not had anything rechromed so I'm not sure if they normally consider small dings and scratches as a usual part of the process. Greg

Can someone give me a rough idea what it should cost to rechrome a 240z bumper? Figuring the bumper needs minor work (scratches and a minor ding)?

Just to echo what MEZZZ said about making vinyl graphics....most sign shops can do exactly what he said. They can take your art work and blow it up to what ever size you need. Very nice job on the garage floor! I'm also thinking of using the Ucoatit but have been hesitant due to the large number of stains already on the floor. How difficult was it for you to prep/clean the floor or was yours already in good condition? My other issue is having to paint it in 2 steps; paint half, wait for it to dry and move everything to paint the other side. Do you think that will be an issue? Greg