kmack

Gonna be bar-b-queing any time soon?

Finally got a picture of the manual.

No I haven't gotten a Gold Medallion Award. Nor will my car ever be close enough to receive one. That is why I'm passing on some of these items. This booklet came with the stack of papers with my car. I've even got a factory(dealer?) A/C booklet, but it's not in that great of shape.

Original Datsun Consumer Information Booklet from dealer. Provides general information regarding Datsun models from 240 through 510 Wagon. Print date 11/16/70. Mint condition. This may make the difference in getting that Gold Medallion Award for your concours restoration. $40 + shipping kens240z@hotmail.com San Antonio, Tx 78249

Original factory Hitachi radio Operating Guide. Has one crease through center, otherwise in excellent shape. For those that have a showroom finish car with the original AM radio, this is a must to finish out the paperwork for your car. This could be the difference in points for that Gold Medallion Award! $35 + shipping kens240z@hotmail.com San Antonio, Tx 78249

It doesn't say in the ad that it is a black pearl car or not. Just implies that that the black paint is rare. I love how they say it has 20+ "original" miles, then put their disclaimer that they can't verify it! Starting to sound familiar? I doubt this is a Black Pearl Edition car, and if so, $6700 sounds like a lot for a 280! I'd look under the carpet, around the interior, and in the engine bay for signs of another color before I bought this car. Just my $.02....

Mike, Was looking through my service manual the other day and saw one of these side mounts. The pictures in my manual show it being mounted on the passenger (right) side of the engine, using the 3 holes where the alternator mounts up and the right side engine mount. Looked like a pretty clean set-up to me. Maybe one of these days I'll play around with my welder and see what I can come up with.....

Somebody refresh my memory... Weren't the Series I cars the only ones with the plastic storage covers, not the "built in frame" storage boxes found in the later years? I know mine has the plastic covers behind the seats. And I had a '73 that had the storage bins located on the rear deck. I'm under the impression that this was a Series I only feature. Am I correct? If so, Randy, what does your car have?

2ManyZ's, My VIN number is in the 18000's. After initially talking with Carl when I first got the car, it was the last know registered Series I on ZHome.com. Since then, I believe there are one or two more listed that were made in January 1971. This is part of the reason I have spent so much time getting this car back on the road. It won't be a concours resto., but it will look nice.

My information is based on info I received from zhome.com. I believe Carl was the one who enlightened me as to the cross over point. There were some who were surprised that the Series I cars were even built in Jan. '71! As for your case? It is strange to one quarter from one car and another form a different series. I would really go through to check and see if either the vent hole is filled up (have seen it a lot on cars trying to look older) or for signs the panel could have been replaced at some point. How certain on the history of the car are you? Sure would like to know if you do have a "cross-over" car! Check in with Carl Beck and see if he can help also.

SHOTIME, Mike is right. If there is rust in the floor pan, then you will need to check in other areas, also. Particularly under the battery tray, front frame rails, both floor pans and firewall, and the lower, rear rocker panels, and the hatch ledge. These are the most common areas that are prone to rust. Since you have access to the car without actually having to buy it, you're in a better position than most to poke and prod the car before you buy it. As for the clutch, top the fluid off and bleed the system. If it still doesn't disengage, then the clutch plate may have surface-rusted itself to the flywheel. It happened on my car after I bought it. Since the car has sat for at least 5 years, you'll also be looking at possibly replacing all the door and hatch seals. A complete seal set will cost about $200. A set of floor pans will run between $175 -300 depending on which ones you get. Also check all the brake lines. Being that you are the one fixing up the car for the dealership, you may want to entertain the idea of letting the shop pay for eveyrthing to fix the car first (or at least get it back to good driving order) and then buy it from the dealership. If you find out that there is no rust for sure, then a clean car with minor mechanical and cosmetic blemishes is definitely worth $2500. Keep us posted on what happens and welcome to the world of Z's. :tapemouth ps- I'm ashamed at some of the comments that have been made in this particular thread based soley on one person's choice of vehicles. Anyone who has a desire or love for Z cars should be welcomed with open arms into our realm. Not chastized because they "drive a Ford". Does this mean I'll be "put down" because I drive a Ford? Or a Chevy? Hell, I've owned a Jeep, Fiat, Volvo, Porsche, Volkwagon, Chrysler, Mazda, and too many motorcycles to list. And I've loved driving them all. This doesn't make me a bad person, and it shouldn't. Just had to get that off my chest.

So after 5-1/2 years I finally get my engine started. Once the battery held a charge and it cranked over enough to suck fuel, it started right up. A little loud since the exhaust is not complete. Anyway, after running the engine for about a minute, I noticed a puddle of fluid on the floor underneath the car. I feared the worst thinking it was gas. Turns out it was coolant. Coming from the bellhousing of the transmission. Now in looking at my spare engine, the only thing I can see where water could come out of is a freeze plug on the back side of the block. Everything looked ok when I put all back together (although I did not change any freeze plugs). Is there somewhere else the water could be coming from that I can't see? There is no evidence of water in the oil pan so I'm ruling out bad head gasket. And there are no other signs of water anywhere on the engine. What is involved in replacing a freeze plug? TIA...

You might try going to a salvage yard and finding one there. Most of the yards around here will take $5-10 for one (depending on the yard). I usually see about 50% of the struts on junkers still hold. It's worth a shot, plus you can get an idea of what's available for other things on your car.

Now I have already voted (905 red, my car's color) but I have to put in my vote for my second choice of Z color. My Dad had a '72 when I was a kid. It was rebuilt from 2 wrecks (one hit in the front, the other in the back). He painted it black (base coat) with really fine gold dust in the clear. The car would change from the deepest green you've ever seen to a blackish-brown to solid black depending on the sun. Georgous looking car. Especially with all the chrome accents from the windows, doors, bumpers and wheels. just my $.02...

$470 for a "new" dash is not a bad deal. Just Dashes (www.just dashes.com) quoted me about $750. How much is freight going to be to send it to Australia and back, though? What's the bottom line when all's said and done and the dash is in your car?

I love the new Blue Chrome option for the site, Mike. Way cool! Really jazzes things up a little.

You're right, Mike. There are four (4) mounting hole just under the front carb. If my memory serves me, this is where the smog pump and/or A/C compressor bracket bolts on. (I haven't had the smog junk on my car since '93!) It looks like you could make a plate to use all four holes and then also use the engine mount holes, too. Although the engine would be prone to leaning to one side once the rotating pin was removed from the stand mount. Like I said, any good with a welder?

A side mount engine stand? Hmm... Where did it mount to? I can see using one of the engine mounts (but actually bolting to the block) but where else? Transmission housing bolt, maybe? But that would still limit your access to the flywheel wouldn't it? Any good with a welder?

Temporarily, yes. I know it's kind of the cheap way out right now, but that is all I can afford. All I'm looking for is links to information where some have soldered up the fuse block to help overcome the melting problem. I've seen it before, I just can't find it. Once I find it, then I'll make an informed decision about whether I can trust that sort of fix or I need to buy new.

I have the same problem as Dale. Same fuse block also. I've seen somewhere on the net where some body describes a way to "rebuild" the fuse box. Something to do with making new solder connections. Anybody know where this is at? A link?

Whether you decide to get a 240, 260, or 280 is entirely up to you. As far as looks are concerned, they all pretty much look the same (except for minor things like tail lights, bumpers, turn signals, etc.). You can make any one of them look like another one fairly easily. The big difference between the 3 is in regard to what some would call luxuries, like fuel injection or A/C. 240: Carburated 2.4L, some had A/C installed by the dealers, but most don't have it. Little to no emissions and not much in the way of niceites like intermitent wipers or stuff like that. Most will tell you the 240 has the most "soul" to it. 260: Carburated 2.6L, but with the "bad" carbs. These cars were made for only about a year and way too much emissions on the them so they were heavier. Engine displacement was increased to help over come emissions accessorie's draw on the engine. Almost all 260's though had A/C. (A plus!) They also had a different dash design around the console, and came in a 2+2 model (backseat). 280: Fuel injected 2.8L. This when Nissan really started adding on the luxuries some-what. You can find a good 280 reasonably cheap and in fairly good shape. Good power from the motor, but it has to overcome the heavier body weight. I still think a stock 240 can outrun a stock 280. Since you're on a 240 site, I'll suggest you find a 240! A simple swap of the 2.4L with a 2.8L adds a lot to a 240's power capabilities with out restricting you to more emissions (check your local laws on this). Plus, if you're in a state that requires emissions checks (like strange California), most 240's are exempt. Food for thought, and I'm sure there are more members out there that can provide you with enough info to make a wise decision, but either way, I'd still suggest going for a 240!

Go ahead and replace the hoses. And do not use heater hose. I used that initially, but still had to replace them a few years down the road. The fuel vapors will harden the heater hose and cause it to crack, causing leaks. The only 2 hoses I've ever seen that needed to be replaced are the long 1/2" hose and the 5/8" hose w/ 180 degree bend. The short 1-1/4" hose from the filler neck to the expansion tank typically is fine. (I've looked at over 10 cars in junk yards and on everyone of them this hose was fine.) The 1/2" & 5/8" hose can be bought at any NAPA store for around $1.25 per foot. Not bad, but not cheap. Make sure you get the fuel line grade hose. I bought 5' of the 5/8" and 8' of the 1/2" hose when I did mine just to be on the safe side. To make the 180 degree bend you'll need a piece if 1/2" OD steel tubing (preferrably stainless) about 6" long. (Do not use copper tubing! The fuel will degrade the copper over time and could ruin your fuel system.) You can probably find a place that sells this (plumbing shop would be a good place to start) and they'll most likely be able to bend it for you. I used a bench mounted vise. Painfull and time consuming, but it worked. Once you have the tubing bent, just slide it in the 5/8" hose and hook it all up. It's pretty easy from there. While you're at it, you might as well replace the 3/8" hose going to the hard fuel lines and to the carbs if they haven't been changed already. Good luck and don't forget to drain the gas tank! It's amazing how heavy about 8 gallons of gas feels when it's sitting on your chest! Don't ask....

If you don't have the large round vent hole in the rear quarters, then you have a Series I car. You need the badge that says 240Z on it. It's about 5" long and I think Motorsport still carries them. That is where I got mine. Unfortunately, I don't think you can find the metal ones anymore, only plastic. As for the rear hatch grills, I have two that are off of a spare hatch that are available. They are solid but the chrome is coming off in some areas. $10 each. BTW, I'd be interested to know what your VIN is. My car was built in Jan. '71 also and is a Series I. I've been told that Jan was when the factory changed over to start making the Series II cars, but they still made a few Series I that same month.

If anybody is interested, I have a copy of a program from one of the Z clubs in Australia that calculates engine specifics based on changes in head, pistons, head gasket, etc. from the L24 up to an L31. Pretty cool program that used to have a link to, but I can't get it to work. If you would like a copy of it, I can email it to you. {Moderator} I don't know if there is a way to attach files to this site for others to download or not, any help? My email is: kens240z@hotmail.com Just ask for the engine calculator

The true sign of how well Nissan designed the new 350Z, will be in the sales numbers when it is finally released. My personal view is that for as much as this thing looks like a copy of another manufacture's car, you'd think Nissan could have dropped the base price a little more. Under $30k ($29,999) for a copy-cat of an Audi TT, Nissan? Get real!!! They should have gone with a more grass-roots approach and less "luxuries". But then again my opinions are biased. I've loved the looks of the original 240Z since I was 4 years old and my Dad had his '72.