ChrisA

Hey There Tex....is this it......http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14194 Chris

I believe this member is in the KC area. catfish_wiskerz Search the member list and you can PM him for more info. He's got a really nice Z. Welcome to the group. Chris

Last year I purchased this kind of setup from Jegs. It's made by Painless Wiring. Let me assure you that David's harness is much better for two reasons. One, its cheaper (I paid $75). And two, it uses Datsun connectors. Where the Painless harness didnt and I had to modify it. If David's works like I think it will, you will all be happy with the purchase. My own experience with my setup has been good. Amp meter shows much less draw when all lights are on. Stock lights are brighter but you can now upgrade the bulbs without fear of a meltdown anywhere in the system. Especially in the fuse box. My 72's box would get so hot it'd burn you if you touched it. Now everything is nice and cool. Super deal!! FWIW, Chris

Would that be the "FLS30" model? Chris

After you rent the jack, and have the tranny ready to drop out, put a cargo strap with the ratchet around it also. The more secure you have it on the jack, the easier it will be to manipulate around. My .02 Chris

Yes Gavin, the 910/Maxima had the diesel. The 810 in the US never did. Maybe other countries but I'm not sure on that. My 79 810 was a great car. L24 injected, five speed, cruise, power windows, power mirrors, velour interior, rear defroster, a/c. It was a plush version of a Z (kinda). FWIW, Chris

Thanks Chris, needed a laugh!! ChrisA

Too bad its so far away. If it were within 500 miles I'd be all over it. Its ironic as I'm looking for a different daily driver and that would be perfect. I sure miss the 810 I used to have. Great car and quick too. Swap out the injection for some Z Therapy SU's and headers, that car would be sweet. Chris

I thought there were indicator marks on the dipsticks and you dont want to over fill them. Picture attached. Chris

Good talking to you Cat, wheel and tire combo sound good. Post up some photos of them too when you can. Z-ya, Chris

Gonna send you a private message which will show at the top of the home page like this: Welcome, ChrisA. You last visited: Today at 11:32 AM Private Messages: 0 Unread, Total 7. Click on the "read" and it will open.

On the home page on the left it show say photo gallery or gallery, click there, then at the top right it should say upload photos....go to it!!! Chris

Hey fish...welcome to the group! Chris

My 72 is the same combo(brown/tan). Aside from the previous owner completely neglecting the car for years, it isnt a bad combo. The interior doesnt seem to get quite as hot as the all black interior does. I think a blue Z with the tan interior would be okay. But Michael thinks like I do. Green with tan is nice! Chris

Z cars need close to zero offset so you'd need 40mm thick spacers to mount those wheels. You could try the 30 if you have one. Try it on the front first as you'll want to account for the complete movement of the wheel (up/down/left/right) I have 40's on my Konig wheels. There is about an inch clearance at the lower spring seat. Much luck, Chris

Hi Steve, You can transplant a L28 turbo into a 240Z and with the right amount of money you can get well over 300 horsepower. I'm a believer of Nissan Power in a Nissan BUT there are those out there that swap all kinds of motors into the Z. Supra 6, Ford V8, Chevy V8, Buick V6 turbo. The Nissan RB series swaps really interest me but I dont have that kind of scratch. I'd love to have an RB26DETT in one of my Z's. And the four wheel drive setup as well. The ebay linked car looks pretty good. Good Z hunting mate. Chris

Hey Robert, I'm not up on the Optima but your dealer should match up a battery that is close to the group "24" that fits the Z car. If I recall from the Optima web site, you will have to change the hold down arrangement. Looked custom from what I could see. From the Optima website....http://192.132.24.107/UsingOptima/height_WCM.asp "OPTIMA® GROUP 34/78 The optional red or yellow height adapters may be used for installations where a group 24 is required. Place the battery securely on top of the adapter until the clips snap into place." Hope that helps some, Chris

Beautiful Car!!! Love the Libras! Had a blue (then repainted black) 71 with the same front and rear spoilers and wheels as yours. Welcome to the group!! Chris

Tired of ALL the bashing. Can't we all just get along? PLEASE??!!??!! Lets bash a Yugo or Geo Metro not each other OKAY!!!!! Chris

Hi Kevin, Thanks for the reply to this thread. Its nice to see suppliers get involved in a discussion. I for one would consider trying your product on my L28. Three percent sounds pretty good for fifty bucks. When I'm ready to take my pan down, I'll send you my info and some cash. I see you take Paypal, that works for me. Sincerely, Chris Abbott

Postal Service avoids Cleveland????? Confused

Ummm...unless he's converted to SU's I would think he's got fuel injection. Not nit-picking or anything. Just dont want to confuse him with terminology he doesnt know about. :laugh: Chris

I agree with everything Ed said. If you insist on pressing the bushings out be very careful. I took my front control arms into my shop. Got some tubing with the proper dimensions to support the sleeve that the inner bushing is pressed into. With that sleeve supported securely I then used a proper sized drift to press the bushing out with my 50 ton press. Let me tell you, those old bushings put up a fight coming out!! I havent heard that kind of squealing since I saw two cats fighting once. One bushing was really stuck good till about 3/4 of the way out, then it came out surprisingly easy. I have used the old hack saw method before, but if you support the work and dont rush the job a press comes in really handy. FWIW, Chris P.S.-- Answer to original question, my shop gets $67.00 per hour labor. I would say if you took all the parts into a shop, they out to press the old stuff out in less than two hours.

Hey TexasZ, from what I've read, a good crank scraper can free up some extra horsepower. If its a good design and can be mounted really close to the crank throws it'd be a good idea. I'm always concerned about drilling mounting holes in the main cap webs to hold it on though. Cracks can develop if the machining process isnt done right. Although it looks like your linked product is held on by the main cap bolts which seems to be a good idea. I wonder if any member has put one on their L24/26/28? I'd have to have some hard numbers and reliability tests before I spent the money. My .02 Chris