ChrisA

Mohamed and Bill, Welcome to the club. It is great to have you and your Z's here. Don't hesistate to ask questions. The huge amount of knowledge here is amazing. Hopefully you will enjoy the cars and the website for many years. Chris

Hi Mike, My own experience is that it should be in the oil pan. Need a weld in bung fitting to match your temp sender. I've seen them at Jegs and Summit and other speed shops. Chris

Hi Steve, They are Goodyear Eagle F1 225/50ZR16's with a 40mm spacer. Not a lick of rub anywhere! Konig Monsoon rims. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/Zcrazy72/DSCN0317.jpg

Okay so I did some research on your F54 block, from this website. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html Bryan Little says this about his own F54 build up "According to Nissan, L series head-gaskets should be installed dry (no sealer). I've tried a couple of head-gasket brands and I really like the Fel-Pro brand. It seals well, and as a bonus at rebuild it simply pops off the block, little scraping is necessary. I've seen comments that it's thinner than a stock gasket, and may increase compression slightly. I've also heard it may not seal well for turbo motors, but on regular motors I think it's ideal. I very lightly spread gasket sealer around the water jacket holes on the gasket. This keeps it from weeping coolant from the edges which is a problem on older motors" So I guess if you got the correct head gasket from FelPro then run it. If not, double check. Chris

Brian, do the holes in the block you mention match any holes in the head? If there are holes in both I would not block them under any circustance. Sounds like the Nissan guy was being a d*** because you bought FelPro and not OEM Nissan. Just a thought but I'd check for the holes. Chris

Yep, to each his own. I agree with Vicky. If they're tucked in nice it looks awesome. I run 16 x 7 on my car front and rear. Here's a nice picture of it. And the fact that my motor makes more horses than stock overcomes any rollling resistance.

Horsepower overcomes drag!! Chris

Thanks Eric, much appreciated. Chris

Hey Eric, could you shoot a pic of the installed pump? Just curious. Is your cooling fan a pusher or puller? I think your shut off method sounds okay to me. Thanks, Chris

Me too, and a 510,610,710 and I still kick myself for getting rid of my 810. I dont think I could bring myself to own another 310 though. :laugh: Chris

I could be way wrong on this but I dont think there is a list anywhere that shows how many of each individual color car was produced. Only total production by year. You might browse www.zhome.com for information but again I dont think that detailed info exists. Chris

:stupid: ...........

I forgot to say "Go Vols" in my post. Big fan.

Hi Stephen and Mr. Smith, Could the car have a faulty connector at the fuel pump which is shorting out over the bumps? Or maybe at a fuel pump relay? Chris

Hi Byron, welcome to the group. What's your Z's serial number. Have fun with it and best of luck on the rebuild. Chris

Besides the fact that is a great looking car, can you guys tell me if it has IRS? Looks like the rear wheels are at an angle like I see on 280ZX's all the time. Thanks, Chris

I think you're getting there Bill. Keep up the good work. I'm glad to see you're fixing up the old girl. Those door hinges look ok in the pictures? They just fell apart? Chris

I found this also, it even mentions a name brand but no specifics on the compound. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/brakestech.html Quote from web page..."If not using a new shim kit, clean up the old shims and use some CRC 'Disc Brake Quiet'. It's a small red bottle of PCB type grease as a replacement" Trying to google CRC now. Chris

Hi Jared, I just googled this up for you. http://www.performanceproducts.com/ProductPage.aspx?pid=101136&name=Brake+Caliper+Grease&type=10 I'm guessing this would work on the pads as well. Chris

Hi Ian, I am very glad to see someone your age taking such an interest in a car. Good job. Might I suggest you and your folks get this book. There are a lot of tips in it that will help you with the Z. "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" by Wick Humble, published by Fisher Books You can get this from Motorsport Auto, maybe Victoria British. I got my copy at a Barnes and Noble book store. Here is a picture of the cover for you. Good luck with the car. Chris P.S. this website is all about bodywork...www.eastwoodco.com they have books and videos on working metal. Might help you.

I met a guy with a nice 260Z today. He was across the street from my job at a quickie mart. He's been bitten by the Z bug hard!! Car is from Washington State. Serial number 12329. Early 260 with the small bumpers. Gold metallic original paint. 5 speed conversion done and he's getting minor bodywork done. No rust on the floors or rails. He's got a great car for a first Z. He's even being encouraged by his girlfriend!! He's got an Arizona Z car 4 barrell manifold on it and want's SU's. His name is Tony Elsberry if anyone here sold him the car. I gave him the club's website and told him to look into ztherapy.com also. He's got the complete intake setup for the flatops but knew they aren't that good. FWIW, Chris

Hi Ed, again great job. I noticed the placement of the tie down hooks on the rear suspension. Were they located there when you started your restoration? And I have to say I love the pedal assemblies also. Chris

Awesome job Ed. Great looking car. I like the air cleaner housing. Good luck at the show. Chris

Hi John, look here.....http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18287 Oopps I see you know about this already. Chris

Thanks Stephen, didnt have any pictures here at work. Chris