mriz

Somtimes a soft gum eraser with light pressure can help break it loose depending on the grade of silicone and if you can get to it. But I have never done it on chrome just glass and metal.

Shouldn't be sided but just put a call in to where you got them to be sure. It didn't matter on my 280.

Testing the EFI system , high idle until I push in the clutch after 15 seconds idle returns to normal. I am not getting continuity between #5 pin to gnd, 16 to gnd, 34 to gnd, and no continuity from air reg and fuel pump pin test.I don't understand how other parts of the system work while 5/16/34 don't. I have the battery out because I don't want to toast anything but am I leaving the circuit open by not having it connected? trying to go one step at a time .Thanks

For fun possibly a whats it worth section or a 3 -4 day auction just to see what an actual Z guy would pay for your car.Post a picture and the honest history. I usually use Ebay to check values but that is quite inaccurate most of the time. Of course just bids no comments . I know there are a few , ok alot of Z's here I would purchase and do wonder about the value. It only takes one person to ruin an auction but would hope the maturity level could handle it.

Thanks ,That should keep the pressure up.

The only other insult to add is what looks to be a ZX shifter boot and knob along with driver side front end damage by the way the parking light is pushed back . I guess you would have to register it as a composite?

Painting is the exception in this case . What is the best way to connect them? Thanks

Last year when I painted the car I kept having to wait for the compressor to catch up leaving me with uneven pressure . Is there a way to connect 2 compressors together so the storage capacity is increased, and would this solve the problem. Someone else had mentioned it to me after I finished last summer but now I am definetly going to repaint . I have my sears 27 gal and can borrow a 5 gal or my brother in laws 27gal. How much capacity do you really need anyway?

Enrique I see your point , I forgot about the adjustment factor if you weld it thus the point of the plate in the first place is the adjustment.

Just a thought, With the access hole cut would it be possible to weld a piece of 1/2 bar stock to the inside of the panel then tap through that or is it overkill?

Has anyone seen the Nissan concept car. It's set to compete with the new 2 seat pontiac and Miata. I think it's called urge. Looks ok a little too much on the concept but they usually tone it down by the time it's produced.

A moment of weakness thinking about what kind of Z I could get for that much money.

I'm thinking if he gets the bin price for that ,I could put some New York Giants stickers on the side of mine and ask 13,200!!!! I'll even throw in the dog.

Thanks, the supplier didn't even have all the p-sheets.

I use PPG Omni and there's only one place around here that supplies it. The guy is ok but has given me wrong info before. Dosn't want to waste time on a newbie, especially when purchasing a bottom line paint.My neighbor is a body shop owner but never used Omni before. I guess I should shoot a scrap piece of 24ga using a HD aerosol 6oz fill and spray deals while I wait for the snow to melt. Thanks.

Has anyone used this before. My neighbor sugested using this when I do spot work instead of using typical rattle can laquer primer which I found out does not work well with urethane bc/cc system. It is also in a rattle can but he said it is more compatable , basically 2k epoxy in a can I guess. I just have a few (dozen)spots to putty and smooth out before the repaint if spring ever comes and would hate to mix a 2k epoxy then cleanup gun for spot work. It's amazing how the impefections show up once the clearcoat goes on.

Did mine last night. In a garage hairdryer will work. I had to point the forced air propane heater on it ,temp in upper 20's uot in the portable shelter.

Beautiful Z. I'm just being picky and these things may be an optical illusion but if you look at the grill either the hood is slightly off or the grill is out on the right side by the looks of the first pic .Follow the top rail of the grill from lt to rt and the gap is different. From the back the driver side above the lights next to the hatch where the quarter panel meets it looks slightly rounded compared to passenger side . ? prior rust or damage.What do you guys think. I know thats being too fussy on such a nice Z car but if I were buying a high end Z I would want to know. And when I noticed my grill was off(too late) it was result of damage.

Now I know It's been too long since I've driven the Z because when I went to start it it would not idle above 2500rpm then die out. Did the loose/chewed wire check .Looked through SBLAKE's efi posts and fsm. After about an hour of frustration and panick I noticed I forgot to take the freezer bag I put on the air intake off meant to keep the vermon out.Relived but embarrassed .As soon as the snow clears and front end is together we are going around the block.

Impact wrench(350 ft lbs torque) had no effect and I'd already left enough of my skin on the car for one day,so i'll get more band aids and go at it this weekend. Thats the one X- RAY.Thanks for gland nut tip 240kman ,the ball joint is good unless I wreck that too but boot needs to be replaced . But just in case could you post those ball joints in case I do another while I'm at it deal.

Managed to get the castellated nut off but the one on the strut housing is frozen so it looks like more tools to the collection.

Another ? If I unbolt the knuckle from the strut assembly will it lift off the tie rod end so I can replace the boot? Stupid ? but this thing got the best of me today .

Thanks, I'll pick up a set of forks this week and just ordered boots. The rear spindle pins were easy compared to the front end in terms of stuck/frozen bolts.

I can't seem to get the tie rod end disconnected from knuckel so I can remove the strut housing and will need to get a fork. Any specific size and advice? Also the grease boot is shot at the end of the tie rod. The urethane kit comes with the tie rod end boots but I can't see how these hold grease like the soft ones on the car or am I completely off base? Thanks