orange260z

Wow, those are "big muthas"! The setup sure does look nice, though... congrats!!!

Dnald, I'm thinking of buying these wheels for my early 260 right now, but I'm concerned about rubbing issues. Could you tell us what tire size you are running? I'm thinking of going 225/50R15. I have 14x7 Appliance wheels on the car right now wtih 225/60R14 tires, and I do have rubbing problems. Thanks,

The rims don't seem to be the right offset though... they stick out more than I'd expect... perhaps you could check the pics in the edited post, and give me your views... thanks, Ayan

I have a set of what I believe are the same wheels. Although they are in storage with the car right now, I know they do say "Made in Japan" on the back, and look pretty much identical to the ones in the previous post. Pics can be seen at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/634567 They are size 14x7, are the correct bolt pattern for Zs, but I think may be the wrong offset - with 225/60R14s the tire just tags the edge of the rear fenders with two people going over a dip. The front wheels also tag the bottom valance as they turn in and the car is moving backwards (I think my control arm bushings are done and have too much compliance). I haven't actually measured the offset. I am looking to sell these if anyone is interested. They are in excellent shape, and run pretty true (no vibes or shakes in the car). I have the chrome lug nuts and I think I also have the centre caps, but I don't think that the caps are in great shape. If anyone has any info about these wheels, or any interest in them for that matter, I'd love to hear from you.... cheers, Ayan early '74 260Z speed@magma.ca

Thanks for the replies! Carl, I did go to the Z Therapy website, but did not "walk away" with a clear understanding of what I need to replace at a minimum. It sounds, from the replies above, that I don't NEED to replace the "balance tube" (what is that, by the way? is that the same as the fuel rail?) even though replacing it may be the way to go in the long run for cleaning up the engine bay. Jeremiah, it's been a real challenge to try to figure out what should be "hooked up" and what shouldn't - the previous owner did a real hatchet job with all the emission control stuff, and probably ended up taking off stuff that didn't need to be taken off or disconnected. I've just got a mess of vacuum hoses with screws on the ends, bare spigots in the manifold, etc. It's no wonder the car runs like crap! The thicker phenolic spacers/insulators that you and Gary are referring to, where can I get them? Is that something I can get through the dealer, or ZTherapy, or other suppliers? Being in Canada, dealer items are the easiest to get (shipping from US often ends up prohibitive once duties and brokerage are factored in). Gary, I'll have to see which linkage my spare one is... and is there any ADVANTAGE to the 260 intake manifold? and do I want to get my hands on an earlier head? Thanks all! cheers, Ayan :knockedou PS I won't be going anywhere far with the car this year, by the looks of it. I hope to make it to the Syracuse convention next year, though!!

Thanks for the replies! Carl, I did go to the Z Therapy website, but did not "walk away" with a clear understanding of what I need to replace at a minimum. It sounds, from the replies above, that I don't NEED to replace the "balance tube" (what is that, by the way? is that the same as the fuel rail?) even though replacing it may be the way to go in the long run for cleaning up the engine bay. Jeremiah, it's been a real challenge to try to figure out what should be "hooked up" and what shouldn't - the previous owner did a real hatchet job with all the emission control stuff, and probably ended up taking off stuff that didn't need to be taken off or disconnected. I've just got a mess of vacuum hoses with screws on the ends, bare spigots in the manifold, etc. It's no wonder the car runs like crap! The thicker phenolic spacers/insulators that you and Gary are referring to, where can I get them? Is that something I can get through the dealer, or ZTherapy, or other suppliers? Being in Canada, dealer items are the easiest to get (shipping from US often ends up prohibitive once duties and brokerage are factored in). Gary, I'll have to see which linkage my spare one is... and is there any ADVANTAGE to the 260 intake manifold? and do I want to get my hands on an earlier head? Thanks all! cheers, Ayan :knockedou

Jeremiah, I recently bought an early '74 260, and it has the flat-top carbs. The car is running ok, but not great. I have two sets of round-top carbs, but am not sure of which year... so I'm having trouble getting the rebuild kits. I think they are early RTs, because they don't seem to have any water passages. What other parts do I need to install these in my car? I have an air cleaner to fit them, but no spare manifolds, fule rails, etc. I may not even have the throttle linkage... any advice would be appreciated. cheers, Ayan

Perfect for the accurate restoration!!! In my quest for shocks for my early '74 260Z, I have mistakenly acquired a pair of "BRAND NEW in the Nissan box" rear struts for the '79-83 ZX non-turbo. These are Genuine Nissan (made by Tokico) and carry a part number of 56210-P8800 (according to Nissan, changed to -P8825 now as labelled on the box). Note that these are complete struts, not inserts, and are complete as sold by Nissan. They sell for USD193 apiece at Courtesy Nissan. Asking USD300 OBO for the pair, or trade for a new unused set of 4 Tokico HPs for my car. Ayan speed@magma.ca 613-762-8064 cell

Hey sudz, I have the dreaded flat-top carbs, but like yours, mine aren't hooked up to most things... but they do run. Let me know if you're still having problems, and I'll try to borrow a digicam an get some pics for you... cheers

Hi, It looks like I need a new emergency brake cable for my early 260Z, and the OE Nissan ones are a little pricey at C$170. The only other ones I've found are "universal" cables made by ABSCO (www.absco.ca) at C$45. They're much more affordable to buy, but I'm wondering what is involved in installing something like this - difficulty, special tools needed, etc. Does anyone have any advice/suggestions? Thanks, Ayan

best wishes to you and your daughter, buddy...

Hey Enrique, I'm back. It's been a while, but things were either too cold or too busy to look at the car. Today I spent the whole day working on it. 1. New battery 2. New starter (PO put a new starter in two months ago, but the solenoid was sticking) 3. replaced leaking oil pressure sender So the car starts, runs, but I still have no lights/gauges. I should mention that the previous owner, who had the motor out of the car for a rebuild, was a race car builder. This is evident when looking at the motor, as half the hoses have just been capped off instead of reinstalled. Someday I'll have to figure out which of those DON'T rob power and reinstall them! The other very disturbing thing I've found is that there are a lot of unconnected, uncapped plugs and wires in the engine bay. There are some properly capped ones that I would guess were for factory options not installed, like air. But there are others that are simply unplugged. I found that the reverse switch is not hooked up, and with the help of a mechanic friend we managed to find the unconnected terminals in the wiring harness. Also, the tachometer suddenly started working today - it jumped from 0-8000 and back when the ignition key was turned, started out by showing 7000rpm at fast idle (not 7000rpm), and then settled down to about 1500 (but I figure the engine was doing less than 1000). It was responsive to throttle at that point. How does one adjust it? The oil pressure gauge now seems to be working, but none of the others are. There seems to be a broken sender on a housing right near the distributor, by friend thinks it's a broken water temp sender - is that the right place? And still no dash lights, except for the right turn signal going on solid when the right signal is activated. None of the exterior lights except one of the reverse lights is functioning. The fusible links - are the two on the firewall the only two in the 260? Are they just wire jumpers? There is a red one and a blue one, not a green and a black as labelled on the cover - maybe these have been replaced, but how do I know they're not just wires? Where do I get proper replacements? And we haven't even started the brake problems discussion yet... Thanks in advance for any advice, Ayan

Hi, My oil pressure sender was leaking when I bought the car, and I picked up another one locally. The unit they sold me is a "Standard Motor Products Inc" PS-153. I just went to the Standard web site, and this is the correct part #. However, when I pull the old one out of the block, there is a little fitting on it between the sender and the block - it seems to be an adapter of sorts. The unit that came off the car is a little smaller than the PS-153, and the PS-153 has a much smaller hole for the pressure to be read from. However, it seems to fit into the little adapter-gizmo just fine, and does have the correct bullet-type connector at the back. Do I have the right part? Was the one on my car the wrong part? Why the different aperture sizes? Thanks, Ayan '74 260Z RLS30-0061XX

I believe you can get them in 8/9/10". check out the mfr's website. cheers

I've been looking for budget wheels for my recently purchased (and still not running) '74 260. I've come across a brand called "American Eagle", and they have a basic 5-spoke star wheel that comes in 15x7,4x4.4", 0 offset. Best of all, it's really cheap, like USD90. Are they the nicest wheel? No. Are they the best quality? Doesn't seem like it. But they are the right fit for the car at the right price... check on the net. Cheers.