richard1

Thank you Dreamer, I will give them a call.

I have hired the recommended attorney and I believe that he will handle the injury case very well. he is trustfull and professionnal the way he is handling the case until now. I still have three more weeks with these pins in my hand as the surgeon told me yesterday. About the car, my insurance company has been very slow until today. They told me that the car will be repaired as original with all new parts. God bless that it was insured for its appraised value. Furthermore, the adjuster told me that he will rely on the estimate of the restoration specialist to bring back the car to its original state. It seems that all the new parts are available from Motorsport except for a brand new hubcap. If any of you guys have one in perfect condition, please be in touch with me.

I need one perfect hubcap for my 72 that has been damaged in an accident three weeks ago. Top dollars for the perfect one. I am not interested by those in the classified.

Apart from Motorsport, what are the other suppliers for new front body parts as front bumper, left fender, hood. The adjuster in charge of my claim seems to have a hard time to complete his estimate.

Last Friday, I went to the bone specialist and surgery has been planned for monday. Now, I have wires and pins in the left thumb base ans I have a cast for at least 4 weeks. Today, I went to the body shop to pick up my garage door opener and by coincidence, my insurance company adjuster was there. I don't trust him at all. He asked me if a scratch and dent on my left door was there before the accident (a real sucker). The faulty drive insurance has not sent yet somebody to assess the damages but sent me a letter that the coverage of their client was not sufficient. Futhermore, I received a phone call from the car rental company telling me that the insurance company (the faulty driver) was not assuming the cost involved. It seems pretty fishy because they gave an authorization the day of the accident. Tomorrow, I will meet an injury attorney that has been recommended to me by a very trusted person. I have been told that the guy has restored collectors cars.

Montaya is right about Haggerty. They have limitations and restrictions. It is the reason I have not insured the Z with them. My 1949 Buick Riviera was not a regular driver and I was insured with Haggerty until I sold it two years ago. I have been refered by a friend of my son to an injuries attorney that is also a cars collector. I will call him monday for an appointement next week.

Some of you will recognize me and what happened this week to my car and injuries during an errand for parts to fix a u-joint problem at a nearby local store. For more details about the story look at my last posts. I need advise on some subjects because my car is appraised for a replacement value of $18,000.00 and covered by my insurance company. I have been injured (broken hand with serious surgery next monday) and not at fault. The accident happened the 9/14. One more car is involved with very serious damage but no apparent personal injury to the other driver. The faulty driver maybe seriously injured, having left the site by ambulance. 9/16, a letter of the faulty driver's insurance company was in my mail box telling me that their client was not covered enough for my medical expenses and the car's restoration (for them, a 1972 is a piece of scrap) and she don't understand why I am covered for replacement value for a so old car with appraisal. Yesterday, the appraiser wanted to come home to take pictures of my injury and I refused. She was already at my front door. The faulty driver drives a car registered in my state(Nevada)but a driver's license from Hawaii. Does this means that my insurance will have to handle everything for the restoration of my car and I will have to rely on my car andhealth insurance to cover this accident? For sure I am in the process to have a "dog" attorney. The car may have about $5,000.00 damage. It is not appraised yet.

Dogma, Beandip, Chino and Lance, Thank you guys for your support and kind words. As many of you have told, NOTHING WILL BE SPEEPED UP FOR ANY CONSIDERATION. Tomorrow, I will meet a bone specialist and I am in the process to find a good attorney. The faulty car driver's insurance company (Progressive) told me that it is hard to believe that an old car is insured at replacement value and that maybe the client could not be sufficiently insured for the extended damages to the three cars and my insurance company could have to cover the difference. The restoration shop told me that Allstate, my insurance company, has bad reputation. For sure, I will not give up and it will take the time it will take. Here we are just speaking of the sheet metal. The injuries of the three people involved could also be a problem if she has not the proper coverage.At least I have my own health insurance. I went with my son to the body shop this morning and he took 70 pictures. For the first time I have has the occasion to look at the extend of the damages. They have not removed any parts for now because they are waiting the visit of the appraisers of both insurance companies. This morning, I gave a copy of the appraisal to the restorer to put in the file if there is any argumentation. At first look, he told me that the frame is not damaged because the gaps everywhere are clean. The hood is slightly bent, the LF fender completely crushed including the light pod. The damage to the front suspension are a bent tension rod, sway bar bushings and tie rod. I will see in the next days or weeks How things will evolve.

First, I want to thank you Montoya, Beandip and all others who have replied to my tread with valued inspiration to fix my vibration problem. This morning, I took out of the garage my praise and joy to go to Harbor Freight to buy the tool recommended by Beandip to change the u-joints. A nice sunny day as usual in Las Vegas. After that purchase, I was in my way to pick-up my two driveshaft u-joints at a local parts store. I was stopped at the corner of a street at the stop sign of a dangerous street waiting for my right to go. Suddenly, a car in the opposite way on the same street didn't stopped at her stop sign (the lady was on her cell phone) and has been hit on her right side by a car driving around 45 MPH having priority. The impact dragged the faulty driver's car to my left front fender and door and my car slided 45 degrees to the right side. I was wearing my seat belt God Bless Me. I have not been injured seriously, just a broken thumb. The two other drivers are at the hospital and a less than a year old child has been saved being secured in the car's back seat that was on the driving priority (all safety bags were exploded but none on the faulty driver's car hitten from the right side). I am on shock and this is my way to calm down this evening with a brace on my arm. I am sad about the injured people and angry about this faulty driver with a driver's licence from out of state for maybe many years. She is not the owner of the car but she maybe the one in the worst condition right now. The other lady(right of way is older and may have spine injury) My fully original Z has been towed to the most trusted local body shop with experience in these cars because I know him for his restoration work. My heart is broken. The paint was still the original from the factory. The apparent damages are a complete crushed LF fender, torned bumper, dented left door, no hood damage, bented front splash pan. The undercarriage maybe something else. The body shop does business exclusively with Motorsport for Z restorations. Maybe I am lucky. The last appraisal on the car goes back to 09/01 for $18,000.00 as replacement value as a collector's car Please, any advise to handle this situation with the faulty driver's insurance company(Progressive) would be appreciated. They will not care because it is a 72 without any value for them. I am insured with Allstate for full value replacement. Any personal message and suggestions how to handle this situation should be welcomed.

Montoya, At this speed, I shifted the transmission to neutral (A/T) but the vibration is still there.

Momtoya, You are right about the driveshaft, there is no other components than the yokes and the sliding sleeve. I have been comfused with the multi components of the half shafts. I apologize to all for my mistake.

MOYEST, I have owned a 69 510 back in 1972-77 and my girlfriend back then (now my wife) a 70 240z. I remember very well that a half shaft u-joint going bad has not a so serious vibration and the first driveline guy I met was quite knowledgeable about the Z problems. The kind of vibration I have at high speed is worse than when you sit in one of these electric massage chairs plus the rattling of metal noise. If you understand what I mean, it is pretty scarry. You have the feeling that the transmission and all the driveline is in decomposition but in same time you feel that it comes from the driveshaft tunnel. You slow down and the vibration is still there until you are driving around 30MPH. You can drive up to 70 MPH and it will not reappears This morning I went up to more than 90MPH before this vibration suddenly appeared. My car is fully original and none of the U joints have ever been replaced. They are checked at regular maintenance and they are sound. Again. I am wondering if it is not more the internal components of the driveshaft that are the problem instead ot the u-joints. Please, some comments from the Z mechanic gurus.

Thank you WEBDAWG1 for your suggestion. They sell $255.50 including shipping.

I have received two other quotations from driveline shops. One is $325.00 installed, another one is $400.00. I found another shop that could replace both u-joints for $109.00. The car has never been abused and has now 90K but I am wondering what are the chances the internals of the driveshaft could be damaged. Motorsport sells a new driveshaft for $225.00 plus $15.00 S&H.

I forgot to sat it is a 72 240z.

Because I have some serious vibration at 80MPH I went to a driveshaft shop because I was sure the problem was from that source. He comfirmed it after test drive. The guy told me that they don't replace u-joints and I need to buy a new or rebuilt driveshaft: cost: $366.00 plus shipping plus installation for a total of $477.00. I am perplex because these u-joints are available for replacement. Opinions please.

You may be right and I will follow your advise to check the connections. You are also right on a very important subject about clean electrical contacts: Spray cleaner products can save a lot of problems about electricals The car has always been in Tenessee before I bought it and was a real time capsule. I enjoy every moment I drive it.

I have some questions. I bought a rebuilt quartz replacement from somebody on this site. The job was very well done and it worked well for some months (I still have my original in my parts bin). Since three months of its intallation it worked well but my problem is after a couple of days it stops. Now, I change the fuse and works for another day or so and sometime a week. After its dead. One day, I went to some maintenance on the car and disconnected the battery. At my surprise, the clock started to work again and went dead a day or so after. I went up to a 15A in the fuse box without solving the problem. Everytime I replace the fuse, it can go for up to some days through a month without problem and goes dead again. These fuses cannot be all bad. This guy was rebuilding earlier Z units with Mercedes quartz units and was successfull on Ebay and the inner work is very well done. I believe he was trustfull because he offered me to send back the unit for replacement. Any suggestion to investigate the problem?...........

I have driven and enjoyed my reliable 72 z for many years since I bought her many years ago (still full stock). About the same time of purchase I replaced the original oil filled shocks with KYB gas units, I replaced the second set of Bridgestone with Potenza in 2001. Now, I have a new set of shoes far better than Bridgestone for my stock Z. It maybe a shame for some of you but they are BF Goodrich on the original steel rims. They are very comfortable and not distorted as the Potenza when new. My question is: -Rotation never done in 43k -Front tires were worned even in front and still good. -Rear tires were worned more inward (why I made the decision to replace the entire set), -Suspension components thight with no play at all. Conclusion: Was it a weakness of the early Z to wear tires inboad because of the rear iindependent suspension geometry?

I am not a guru at this matter but I have never understood why my 72 240 adjustment has always been 0 deg. The engine performs well only when set in "the middle" with full power at any load and speed range with still plenty of power on the freeway at 90 mph. I bought the unmolested car at 32K five year ago. Now, it has 87K. It's still unmolested and fully stock and the timing set up is still the same after all this mileage. I don't know what is the key to this amazing situation other else than regular maintenance ( twice a year) of the stock distributor components (points, condensor, rotor, cap, proper lubrication, no matter the mileage beetween each interval). In the same preventive maintenance approach, I take care of the carbs that have never been rebuilt since the car has been out of the factory . Once a year, I remove the pistons, clean them and the chambers and make sure that everything works properly with no visible defect. The only thing I do is I run the engine with octane booster on every gas tank and change oil at 3K without adding additive. Maybe I am just lucky for a so reliable early Z.

I have a 72 with the stock (remanufactured) alternator and a new voltage regulator.At idle, the engine is at 900rpm w/o a/c on. When the a/c is on the engine drops at 750rpm and the voltmeter is below the middle mark. the voltage comes up when the engine rev. I am not a specialist of the electricals but I believe that the original alternator is weak for the work it has to perform and it can barely take care of a full load of accessories in same time as the a/c, lights and electric fuel pump. Is my comment make sense for the 240?

The thermostat has been replaced today and the problem is fixed. It has been close to 100 degrees today and the gauge needle has stayed below the middle in heavy traffic and as always with the A/C on. thanks to everybody who have exchanged on this tread.

SBlake 01,I agree with what you said. I always put a 160 for the summer and a 180 for the cooler months and there is a big difference. I didn't tell that the engine overheats and it is not the case. There is just a fluctuation of the remperature gauge that brings me to believe that the thermostat is starting to be defective. I will defenitely replaced it.

Your comment is sincerely appreciated. Other comments from fellow members who have gone through the same problem will be welcomed to go further in this matter.

You are also right. It is not a NISSAN package but it is the same Japanese product in japanese language. I was searching for authenticity and it is. All the stampings including the company's manufacturer are the same. Richard